Hey guys -

I've been indecisive on whether to get some boltons and tunes for my 2011 Evo X GSR. As of right now, I'd like to get ETS intake, ETS Quiet V2 exhaust, and perhaps change out some of the intercooler piping. I'd probably get a Cobb AP (Get a protune on it) and a boost controller to compliment the modifications above initially.

I currently have about 13k miles on the car and I bought it brand new. Although the car is fun and quick in stock form, I feel as if I'm chasing the experience of driving my friend's 03 GSR which was a 11 second car. Hence why I started this thread.

I figure that after buying and installing the parts above, and getting a tune, that I should expect to spend around $3k after all is said and done. My goal is to liven up the car and maybe get around 300-315whp

With all this said, would you say that this cost was worth it to you?

 

That should be way under 3 I and you should be putting down more power, just look at the dyno results an see joe much power and mods they have then add up the prices for them

 

Well I might need some help with installation because I really don't have any room to install this stuff nor do I have the experience. I figured that if I buy everything retail, tune, and maybe installation, it would be around that.

It's around $2300 for ETS intake, ETS Quiet V2 exhaust, grimspeed boost controller, Cobb AP, $500 for tune, and a guesstimate of $500 for installation.

 

why do you want the cobb ap? I see you are including 500 for a tune. Do you not want the maps supplied by cobb?

 

I would look for stuff used. You'll save alot of money and I wouldn't get a cobb ap if you're getting a pro tune. Ap would only be worth it if you're gonna switch fuel maps. Installing all of that is very simple and there is alot of DIY threads.

 

"If" I had gained 0whp from my intake, uicp, fmic and cbe. I would of still done it. I love hearing the turbo spool and the DV dump with the intake, and I love the look and sound of my GReddy Ti-C. I obviously did my wheels without trying to gain anything. The 18x9.5 +20 fitment looks amazing. I love it.

If I I had no gains from the TP and 3port, I would of not done them because of the headaches they can add to service and warranty questions. However, those are the two most crucial bolt-ons for power I have honestly. The power they give with my tune makes them 100% worth it.

Same advice I give to newbs. Intake, IC pipes FMIC, TP, CBE and a tune. Best way to drive the X without going overboard and still keeping some respect from *most* Mitsu dealers for repairs...As long as you use a reputable tuner.


Cost-wise, I'm with above, you can get great stuff used. My FMIC, LICP and TP were used when I bought them. Got a great deal too.

I played around with writing a couple functions in LUA and used a data file with my mods...so here's a table of my bolt-on expenses:

tp Rexspeed 90.00
ebcs Grimspeed 3port 100.00
wheels Rota Torque 1228.00
uicp K&N 0.00
exhaust GReddy Ti-C 715.00
pillar A-Pillar Pod 555.98
intercooler ETS 3.5 380.00
intake K&N Typhoon 350.00
licp ETS 90.00
Total Cost: 3508.98

My A-pillar is the DSG 2gauge, here's what I have in it (so the cost makes sense)
> print(pillar)
Prosport Analog AFR 209.00
Prosport Analog Boost 81.99
Total Cost: 290.99

Majority of my costs were wheels too, so if you're just looking for some bolt-ons for performance, it's really not that expensive.

Everything I have I installed myself with 2 jackstands a floor jack and basic hand tools. When it comes to clutch, DP or turbo, just do the fact I'm 6'2" and 290lbs,...I'll have someone with a lift do it.

 

I guess I'd prefer to tune against a Cobb AP and unmarry if I need to. It also seems as if the device has other useful things for monitoring and what not.

 

Thanks for the info. I wish I had a garage to work in that was close by but I recently moved and don't have that luxury .

 

Everything except the LICP and FMIC can be done even in a parking lot, and even when I did live in an apartment complex I would park in the back and be willing to yank the bumper cover off to do the LICP and FMIC.

The work itself is really easy. I used my garage, because when I did the FMIC it was ~117 degrees out that week here in Phx.

bumper cover comes off really easy..

 

Though I might suggest finding a good shop and working with them to install the parts and tune the car. It can be VERY helpful to have a relationship with a tech you trust that knows the car, what's been done to it, how you drive, etc, especially as the car, and your mods, continue to evolve.

Don't get me wrong, I love DIY and it can be fine for some projects (usually cosmetic in my case) but, as we know, sometimes things go wrong and there's nothing worse than being stuck trying to diagnose a problem on your own at 11:30 pm. And, if you ever think of getting the car on the track, having a shop that knows the car and set up makes ALL the difference.

 

but you dont need a tune just for a fmic or licp?

 

Even from the factory, Evo X's need a tune...

 

If you swap an OE sized MAF intake, IC pipes, FMIC and a CBE...you won't need a tune. However, to get any use out of the upgrades you *should* get a tune.

From the factory X's don't *need* a tune, they just don't make nearly the power they should by running rich with some mellow timing.

A X with 1100cc injectors swapped in *needs* a tune to run correctly.

Need and should have are two very different things.



John,
I agree with what you're saying. With the X, it's fairly safe to go with one of dozen intakes, any cat-back exhaust, any IC pipes, and almost any of the FMICs and any decent tuner should be thinking of targets for timing, boost, and air-flow numbers within a very small margin of variance.

I would not suggest doing a 3port, cams, etc outside of a tuner/builder/shop that has a feel for your car. There are just some mods that work better when the tuner/builder/shop is hands on with, even if the install is straight-forward.

Installing the mods you purchase is a lot of the fun of having a tuner car. I do say this with some warning though. Admit your skill level with basic hand tools to yourself. If you really have no concept of how an intake works, or don't understand basics of torquing lug nuts after you swap your wheels...then, yeah, take it to a shop.

 

You make a good point, and I agree, it IS fun. We are racing the car, only, and so I suspect my perspective is somewhat off as i am only focused on having all the pieces working together successfully for a very specific effort. With that in mind there's less tolerance for my fiddling, as the techs are quick to remind me.

 

John, your thoughts align with mine. Honestly, if the price is right, I'd prefer a shop to just do it all. Given the parts I listed above, is there any sort of estimate you could give me, via PM or in this thread, for installation?