4WD system service required?!
forget it. it's a 2011 with 16k, but that's all not relevant anymore. i ordered 5 tires, 4 for me and a pzero for my gf's gti. they put her @#$%ing tire on my right rear rim - that's what's throwing the light. i mean, it's not even close to looking the same. where has the attention to detail gone? i mean, come on!
best, dan
best, dan
i ordered from tire rack and had them deliver to the midas on clybourn north of north ave. i figured it's just mounting and balancing, i should go with the low-cost provider, which happened to be retail. whoops. as an update, i went back this morning, they swapped it out, the girl behind the desk was nice and apologetic, but otherwise it was treated as if this happens all the time. i don't know if they jacked up the pirelli or not, but i'll find out at 5pm when it gets mounted on the vw.
there's a spot on western called amr that i'm going to have the brakes done at. i hear good things about them and spoke with adrian briefly a while ago. hopefully that will be a better experience.
best, dan
there's a spot on western called amr that i'm going to have the brakes done at. i hear good things about them and spoke with adrian briefly a while ago. hopefully that will be a better experience.
best, dan
I have this issue aswell, a few days ago when i was driven on my spare tire for a few mins(15mins) light pop, and now i feel like my car isnt estable when driving specially over 80mph..and my steerong wheel shake, and it doesnt happend before this...do you guys think it has something to do with this light...im thinking on taking it to the dealer?
This happened to me when I had inspection done. Turns out 2 wheel studs broke and 3 wheel nuts where loose. Be careful. Apparently dealer doesn't know how to use a torque stick.
I have this issue aswell, a few days ago when i was driven on my spare tire for a few mins(15mins) light pop, and now i feel like my car isnt estable when driving specially over 80mph..and my steerong wheel shake, and it doesnt happend before this...do you guys think it has something to do with this light...im thinking on taking it to the dealer?
You need to check the car for more damage ASAP. Very few if any people are stupid enough to break a lug when installing a wheel and then do it again a minute later. The only case that I have heard of where two lugs were broken at the same time by a shop was when they put the car back down and drove it without tightening the lugs (at all) on a wheel. The car ended up sitting on the bottom edge of the rotor.
I go this too. Car drives fine and it goes away for about two weeks then comes back (only happened three times). Funny thing was this started happening after the dealer changed my AYC fluid.
At what point would it be wise to just buy the rebuild kit on a 60,000 mile car?
At what point would it be wise to just buy the rebuild kit on a 60,000 mile car?
I'm curious as to why the dealer changed your ACD/AYC fluid when the FSM says to leave it alone unless it is brown. Was your fluid brown?
In any event, the issue WRT the pump is corrosion from the outside in. If the pump is starting to have issues, then rebuilding soon is wise, simply because it will be easier to get the pump apart if it hasn't corroded into a single lump. You also don't want the motor to be fried because that is an order or magnitude more difficult to repair (and isn't part of the repair kit).
In any event, the issue WRT the pump is corrosion from the outside in. If the pump is starting to have issues, then rebuilding soon is wise, simply because it will be easier to get the pump apart if it hasn't corroded into a single lump. You also don't want the motor to be fried because that is an order or magnitude more difficult to repair (and isn't part of the repair kit).
I'm curious as to why the dealer changed your ACD/AYC fluid when the FSM says to leave it alone unless it is brown. Was your fluid brown?
In any event, the issue WRT the pump is corrosion from the outside in. If the pump is starting to have issues, then rebuilding soon is wise, simply because it will be easier to get the pump apart if it hasn't corroded into a single lump. You also don't want the motor to be fried because that is an order or magnitude more difficult to repair (and isn't part of the repair kit).
In any event, the issue WRT the pump is corrosion from the outside in. If the pump is starting to have issues, then rebuilding soon is wise, simply because it will be easier to get the pump apart if it hasn't corroded into a single lump. You also don't want the motor to be fried because that is an order or magnitude more difficult to repair (and isn't part of the repair kit).
Were you able to figure out how to relocate the AYC pump?
Interesting. I wonder if the new fluid is why you're now having intermittent issues. Or if a little fleck of some crud is now preventing the pumping from reaching pressure. In any event, in your shoes, I'd probably at least remove the fender liner and see how corroded the pump is. Then make the bigger decision.
I'm 90% done planning the relocation. The only remaining issue is whether to use a hard line from the pump through the body or all flexible.
I'm 90% done planning the relocation. The only remaining issue is whether to use a hard line from the pump through the body or all flexible.
I just got this warning light after putting on my spare. Picked up a screw in my drivers side rear. Took it to pep boys and they refused to patch it because it was "too close to the sidewall". Anyway, I can either try to plug myself or order a new tire. If I order a new tire, I'll have to drive with this light on for at least a week, maybe 2. Is it safe to go that long with that warning light on? The guy at pep boys was trying to scare me into buying a set of something they had in stock, by saying it will cause drive train damage, but I think its just BS to make a sale.
So, should I leave the spare on with the warning light, plug the tire and put back on (to get rid of warning) until new tire comes in, or skip the new tire entirely if plug is holding?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
So, should I leave the spare on with the warning light, plug the tire and put back on (to get rid of warning) until new tire comes in, or skip the new tire entirely if plug is holding?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
It's completely safe. The system detects the difference in rolling diameters and disables the ACD and AYC (and makes some changes to the ABS, too), which is what makes it safe.
In defense of the guy at Pep Boys, there are some cars that can't handle differences in rolling diameter. An Evo X is just not one of them. But the spare should be in the rear, not the front, because your car is front-heavy and the helical won't like it.
With that said, be very calm in your driving until this is fixed, especially on slippery surfaces.
In defense of the guy at Pep Boys, there are some cars that can't handle differences in rolling diameter. An Evo X is just not one of them. But the spare should be in the rear, not the front, because your car is front-heavy and the helical won't like it.
With that said, be very calm in your driving until this is fixed, especially on slippery surfaces.
Last edited by Iowa999; Jan 5, 2014 at 09:59 AM.
Driving from soccer...just cruising my 4wd & asc service required lights pops on out of the blue. I check my levels of the ayc and it's topped off. Few days I had my bushing replaced and that is the only work done to it. All I got on the car is a K&N intake and a aftermarket clutch. What can be the cause of this? I baby this car. Please help me out. Preciate it guys


