So I havent been able to find a way to bleed the pump without needing to use the tool so unless anyone knows of one (please let me know) i will have to take it to the dealer. Now im wondering if i do the key on pedal to the floor method would it clear the lines enough for me to be able to drive the car to the dealer or is it a waste of time and i just need to get it towed there? Another thing is the service writer at the dealer told me that the job is 1.5 hours in labor because the need to use the tool and weights?? Has anyone else ever heard of that he said the weight were to put on the seats

 

It is a very quick and easy procedure with the MUTIII tool.

 

I should probably stand there and watch them make sure they spend 1.5 hours on it because it sounds like a dealer scam to me

 

From what I've seen, about $100 is fair for the service. It is a very expensive specialized tool.

 

He quoted me 160 just in labor

 

Has anyone else tried the key on pedal to the floor procedure because it didnt seem to work for me

 

When I changed my clutch, I bleed the transfer case myself. I assume you could do the same thing with the ayc/acd. I had the car up on 4 jack stands, so i just started the car and put it in gear. I had my brother hold onto one of the tires while I opened the bleeder valve. Seemed to work pretty good as plenty of fluid/air was coming out. After 4 or 5 times it looked like all the air was gone. So far I've put on 2k miles or so and a couple of autoX and no problems.

 

You had a family member grab a wheel when the car was running and in gear???

Dude, that's what the new boyfriend of your ex-girlfriend is for.

 

Might be a noob question just trying to figure out how this functions is holding the wheel going to cause it to create pressure in the system therefore being able to bleed out the air or what is the purpose of holding the wheel

 

The goal is to "fool" the ACD's ECU into "thinking" that there is significant front-vs-rear tire-slip. That makes it open the solenoid on the ACD's hydraulic line, allowing you to bleed it. That's why you hold in place - using a strap or someone you don't like - one front wheel.

 

Ok this seems like it can work just need to find a person im not too fond of lol. Now also ive been told that bu starting the car when the pump has air in the system i can risk frying the pump is that untrue?

 

If the reservoir is empty, then the pump will spin like mad for a minute before timing out and throwing a code. This would a tad worse than starting your car with a pump that has corroded to the point of not making pressure, but not all that much worse.

But if all you have is air in the lines from the pump to the ACD or AYC, then this won't do anything bad because it's irrelevant to the pump making pressure in the bulb.

With that said, there's another option, which is the direction I'm headed. The folks that sell repair kits for our pumps also sell a bench-bleeding system. This system can (probably) be left on the pump after it is put back in the car. With it, you can start the pump without starting the car and bleed each of the three lines completely by just pressing buttons. If I'm correct and this can be done in this way, it would be - by far - the safest way to bleed the system. It would also allow you to flush the system very easily, if you are so inclined.

I can try to explain this more or you (all) can wait until I've tried it later this summer. I must fix my pump soon and I refuse to go to a dealership (near me).

 

That way sounds very convenient as well as eliminating the need to go to the dealer i would be interested in knowing how it works or maybe start a thread when the time comes for it

 

I will borrow my daughter's digital camera and shall document everything that I do. If you don't see a long post from me on this by, say, Sept, you'll know that I totally screwed it up. Look for a for-sale thread: "Blue 2008 GSR - very rare 1WD version"

 

Awesome ive always wanted a 1wd evo lol