Bolt Missing off TurboXS exhaust
Bolt Missing off TurboXS exhaust
While driving I instantly heard my exhaust go from normal, to TERRIBLY loud. So I drove home and got under the car and one of the bolts from the top of whichever pipe is Forward of the midpipe. (Its that the front pipe?) I'm pretty sure I found the bolt here http://turboxs.com/shop/mitsubishi/1...ront-pipe.html
It's a M10x40x1.5 if I am right. But It doesn't show what kind of metal it is.
Should any bolt I find at a hardware store with the correct specs work?
Also, I have had to drive on it for two days now. Will driving on it cause any harm? I'm trying to stay out of boost as much as possible.
Thanks!
It's a M10x40x1.5 if I am right. But It doesn't show what kind of metal it is.
Should any bolt I find at a hardware store with the correct specs work?
Also, I have had to drive on it for two days now. Will driving on it cause any harm? I'm trying to stay out of boost as much as possible.
Thanks!
The grade of a bolt has nothing to to with what temperature it will hold up to. Grades are a standard of tensile strength..... And the exhaust doesn't require a bolt of even grade 5 strength (for example). So don't worry about it. If you can find the right bolt(s) locally, go for it.
At my old job (diesel mechanic) I use to grab the right size, zip it on, good to go. Nothing special about them. Used on everything from mirror brackets to downpipes. It was nice because we had every size. Both metric and standard. Came in real handy when I needed a random nut or bolt for the car or motorcycles
I think you should be fine driving. Obviously you're probably not going to get on it since the car is extremely loud now. If it worries you at all, just go easy on it.
At my old job (diesel mechanic) I use to grab the right size, zip it on, good to go. Nothing special about them. Used on everything from mirror brackets to downpipes. It was nice because we had every size. Both metric and standard. Came in real handy when I needed a random nut or bolt for the car or motorcycles

I think you should be fine driving. Obviously you're probably not going to get on it since the car is extremely loud now. If it worries you at all, just go easy on it.
Last edited by .M.; Sep 22, 2014 at 04:58 PM.
Awesome. Thanks guys.
I ended up getting the bolt at Napa and got it in after a long while of trying to get the flange to align.
But I think I am missing a spacer of some kind because all its doing is compressing the spring and not actually clamping down at all. I had an exhaust shop look at it and they are going to try a few things to try to get it to seal again.
I ended up getting the bolt at Napa and got it in after a long while of trying to get the flange to align.
But I think I am missing a spacer of some kind because all its doing is compressing the spring and not actually clamping down at all. I had an exhaust shop look at it and they are going to try a few things to try to get it to seal again.
Are you using the stock doughnut gasket and spring bolts and the stock downpipe? When I added a test pipe and cat back I just used a 3" flange exhaust gasket and hardware from Lowes. This was after the supplied hardware and gasket vibrated off. I found that wave (lock) washers at that location help a bunch. That being said I have a double set of nuts at that flange. No problems with it since.
Awesome. Thanks guys.
I ended up getting the bolt at Napa and got it in after a long while of trying to get the flange to align.
But I think I am missing a spacer of some kind because all its doing is compressing the spring and not actually clamping down at all. I had an exhaust shop look at it and they are going to try a few things to try to get it to seal again.
I ended up getting the bolt at Napa and got it in after a long while of trying to get the flange to align.
But I think I am missing a spacer of some kind because all its doing is compressing the spring and not actually clamping down at all. I had an exhaust shop look at it and they are going to try a few things to try to get it to seal again.
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The exhaust shop said that the bolt that I put in wasn't actually going in because the downpipe was stripped on that left side. (how does a bolt just strip out of its place on its own?)
So they ended up getting a longer bolt and putting a lock nut of some kind on the end and that fixed that. On the other side, they broke the bolt off in the downpipe so they had to spend a while getting that out without damaging those threads.
All in all, $250 for 3 hours of labor and some parts and its good as new!
Now that I think about it, the non mitsu dealer that replaced my clutch probably messed up that downpipe thread. Wouldn't surprise me considering they blew my AYC pump, an input shaft seal and blew the CMC while trying to replace the clutch.
So they ended up getting a longer bolt and putting a lock nut of some kind on the end and that fixed that. On the other side, they broke the bolt off in the downpipe so they had to spend a while getting that out without damaging those threads.
All in all, $250 for 3 hours of labor and some parts and its good as new!
Now that I think about it, the non mitsu dealer that replaced my clutch probably messed up that downpipe thread. Wouldn't surprise me considering they blew my AYC pump, an input shaft seal and blew the CMC while trying to replace the clutch.
The exhaust shop said that the bolt that I put in wasn't actually going in because the downpipe was stripped on that left side. (how does a bolt just strip out of its place on its own?)
So they ended up getting a longer bolt and putting a lock nut of some kind on the end and that fixed that. On the other side, they broke the bolt off in the downpipe so they had to spend a while getting that out without damaging those threads.
All in all, $250 for 3 hours of labor and some parts and its good as new!
Now that I think about it, the non mitsu dealer that replaced my clutch probably messed up that downpipe thread. Wouldn't surprise me considering they blew my AYC pump, an input shaft seal and blew the CMC while trying to replace the clutch.
So they ended up getting a longer bolt and putting a lock nut of some kind on the end and that fixed that. On the other side, they broke the bolt off in the downpipe so they had to spend a while getting that out without damaging those threads.
All in all, $250 for 3 hours of labor and some parts and its good as new!
Now that I think about it, the non mitsu dealer that replaced my clutch probably messed up that downpipe thread. Wouldn't surprise me considering they blew my AYC pump, an input shaft seal and blew the CMC while trying to replace the clutch.
Well, at least its fixed now
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