Is the SST on Evo X reliable
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Is the SST on Evo X reliable
hey guys i would really appreciate some input on this topic i have looked at the forums and the only thing i found was back from 2009 and im wondering if the trannys on the 2010 Evo X reliable?
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
#2
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hey guys i would really appreciate some input on this topic i have looked at the forums and the only thing i found was back from 2009 and im wondering if the trannys on the 2010 Evo X reliable?
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
#3
Evolving Member
hey guys i would really appreciate some input on this topic i have looked at the forums and the only thing i found was back from 2009 and im wondering if the trannys on the 2010 Evo X reliable?
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
1. Fluid and Filter change every 15k miles. More frequent if you track the car.
2. Stay under 350 wheel torque when on stock clutches
3. Get a Dodson Sump. pushing the sst before its up to operating temp is very bad.
4. When/if you get the car tuned, make damn sure you're tuner knows what they are doing. Contact eric @ Kozmic in houston,tx. They are the sst kings.
5. Learn how to properly operate the SST. It is a twin clutch automated manual, not a typical torque converter automatic, nor is it a cvt, and should not be driven as one.
6. ????
7. Profit
#4
5. Learn how to properly operate the SST. It is a twin clutch automated manual, not a typical torque converter automatic, nor is it a cvt, and should not be driven as one.
Is there something I am missing here or you have any advice?
I am usually in auto mode/flick to sport when required, never do super sport - too highstrung.
I don't usually have the time to launch it. In sport mode/auto it usually does just fine.
If freeway racing usually hit the paddles to carry rpm up.
Is there something I am missing here or you have any advice?
I am usually in auto mode/flick to sport when required, never do super sport - too highstrung.
I don't usually have the time to launch it. In sport mode/auto it usually does just fine.
If freeway racing usually hit the paddles to carry rpm up.
#5
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They say you should drive the car regularly in S-sport there will be several posts if you use search. Personally I only use s sport when I am not in s sport its only if I get low on gas or just parking.I only use a tune for my car completely stock.The car has been pretty reliable I had a maf sensor go bad recently,otherwise good.I've put about 40k miles on the car in less than 2 years.
#7
Evolved Member
SSport manual all the time, every time, to improve clutch life.
Yes leaving it auto is too jumpy, but manual you can drive with the paddles and operate it just like 'normal' mode.
I never use normal or sport, and don't miss it even in traffic the paddles are so easy.
Yes leaving it auto is too jumpy, but manual you can drive with the paddles and operate it just like 'normal' mode.
I never use normal or sport, and don't miss it even in traffic the paddles are so easy.
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#9
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When at a stoplight if you leave it in gear, the clutches heat up because they are basically sitting there holding tension. Get in the habit of putting the car in neutral at stoplights and driving in S-Sport manual mode to prolong your transmission / clutches.
That's about it in a nutshell.
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hey guys i would really appreciate some input on this topic i have looked at the forums and the only thing i found was back from 2009 and im wondering if the trannys on the 2010 Evo X reliable?
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
I got a 2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8 right now and i really want the X but i wouldnt want the GSR model i want the MR so i can DD it and i miss Automatic but i was wondering if it can handle some bolt ons without upgrading the clutch pack
PLEASE LET ME KNOW !!!
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In normal or sport the clutches slip more than S Sport so wear the clutches faster and generate more heat.
When at a stoplight if you leave it in gear, the clutches heat up because they are basically sitting there holding tension. Get in the habit of putting the car in neutral at stoplights and driving in S-Sport manual mode to prolong your transmission / clutches.
That's about it in a nutshell.
When at a stoplight if you leave it in gear, the clutches heat up because they are basically sitting there holding tension. Get in the habit of putting the car in neutral at stoplights and driving in S-Sport manual mode to prolong your transmission / clutches.
That's about it in a nutshell.
Thanks again.
Cheers.
Last edited by NEpsiOver21; Apr 29, 2015 at 08:48 AM.
#13
Evolving Member
^ I was wondering about that...
The SST is pretty good, as long as you keep it maintained and arent overly hard on it street. The power is the biggest thing, as disscussed above. If your wanting over 350+ you will need to upgrade to aftermarket to handle the increase in power.
The SST is pretty good, as long as you keep it maintained and arent overly hard on it street. The power is the biggest thing, as disscussed above. If your wanting over 350+ you will need to upgrade to aftermarket to handle the increase in power.
#14
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^ I was wondering about that...
The SST is pretty good, as long as you keep it maintained and arent overly hard on it street. The power is the biggest thing, as disscussed above. If your wanting over 350+ you will need to upgrade to aftermarket to handle the increase in power.
The SST is pretty good, as long as you keep it maintained and arent overly hard on it street. The power is the biggest thing, as disscussed above. If your wanting over 350+ you will need to upgrade to aftermarket to handle the increase in power.
Past that you just need upgraded clutchpacks and you should be able to go beyond 350tq.
The limiter on the MR is your wallet more than anything. Clutch packs are expensive, the transmission service is expensive etc..
Now I wouldn't suggest going for a 600hp build and expecting great things, but you can give these plenty of juice if done properly and working with a qualified tuner while also upgrading the parts you need to get there.
The GSR is a bit cheaper and will hold much higher HP reliably due to the beefier 5speed transmission. You still need a better clutch, but past that you don't have to spend much from my understanding to exceed the 400tq number.
#15
Evolving Member
I would even say the around 350 wheel torque is the real limit for the SST
Higher torque can be held with upgraded clutches, but eric @ kozmic has reported torquing/bending of the clutch basket @ around 450 wheel torque and the trans case starts to flex around that same power level, binding up the valve bodies.
But like @Napalm_Enema said, the biggest limiting factor, to an extent, is $$$.
Im sure if you cared to make the case and basket out of titanium or something more power could be held but by that point for the same (or probably less) $$$$ you could go with a full sequential dog box with pneumatic paddle shifters.
That would be badass.
Higher torque can be held with upgraded clutches, but eric @ kozmic has reported torquing/bending of the clutch basket @ around 450 wheel torque and the trans case starts to flex around that same power level, binding up the valve bodies.
But like @Napalm_Enema said, the biggest limiting factor, to an extent, is $$$.
Im sure if you cared to make the case and basket out of titanium or something more power could be held but by that point for the same (or probably less) $$$$ you could go with a full sequential dog box with pneumatic paddle shifters.
That would be badass.