Evo Noob! Bought used with mods?
What is this for?

Hey guys, this is going to seem weirdly worded and so on but Im in a hurry to get this typed out so bare with me. ANY ADVICE would be greatly appreciated! Dicks can leave their comments elsewhere

So I recently bought a 2012 Evo X GSR from a dealer. It has the SSL package and not sure abour the aero package? Anyways when I test drove it I noticed it had the ETS intake and some other ETS things. Stock UICP but I think the previous owner removed his after market one and many others too (ill get into that a little later). I asked the dealer what other mods where on the car and they had no idea. Myself, being new to the turbo scene, have no idea what I'm looking for so I have a few pics and some questions to go along with.
This first pic is of my engine compartment where you can clearly see the ETS setup
I actually removed this intake and pipes to get to the shifter bushings. Upon removal I noticed a bind on the hose that says ETS in this pic so I readjusted everything and no kink free...What is this hose for and what is that valve on the end? Blow off?
So I bought some AMS underhood shifter bushings hoping it would rid the 1st to 2nd issue I am having. Took the first one off and boom previous owner already installed this along with a short throw shifter (that pops like crazy in the console). So seeing all of these mods already installed, I was wondering what else was done so I did some research one this forum and learned that I also have an after market down pipe! While changing the oil I took a gander at it and the only writing I could find (slightly hidden) was the word "Turbo" inside an oval stamped into the side facing passenger side. Anyone know what brand this is? After that I decided to inspect and look around at any other suprises and right away I noticed a shiny pipe from the cat all the way back to the rear axel. With the sub-par weld job and shiny pipe it was clear this was yet another add on or delete. The muffler sounds great coming out dual but there is a Chrysler stamp on it! Is that normal? And with no resonator this exhaust sounds great! Any who The cat is small and I was wondering if its stock?
Notice the down pipe where they cut the 02 sensor wiring off...WHY? There is wired 02 sensor after the cat though. My question is why did they cut this and is that cat stock?
Im mostly wondering if this car was once tuned and the dealer removed it? Or maybe it had the cob AP? How can I find out if it has been tuned? My best 0-60 is 5.29 and up against a 305 hp 370z I can get him off the line but lose at around 100mph (he's got paddles lol)
Last and not least. Looking from the engine compartment down at the down pipe I noticed an outlet" if you will. I'm not sure t the picture is at the top of this post because for some reason my computer is on the fritz and canthank you for reading!not handle this haah
I am not familiar with the Evo cats yet, but coming from the VQ Family (G37s), we have stuff like this in our cats, acting to fool the sensors so your aftermarket cat doesn't throw a CEL.
I could be wrong, though.
I could be wrong, though.
The first picture with the arrow should just be a bolt hole for a bolt for a heat shield, double check to make sure it does not go all the way through. It looks like an ams widemouth downpipe, I have the same downpipe, and mine is just for a heat shield. The last picture of where the downpipe meets the cat or testpipe, definitely looks like the previous owner had a wideband installed and took it with him but left the wideband sensor. On the ams widemouth dp there are two bungs one for O2 (should be top), and one for wideband (should be side). If the top sensor on the dp still has its wires I am gonna say the top sensor and one after the cat are your two O2 sensors. Also, the hose that says ETS is just a connection from your intake to the blow off valve to make it a recirculated system. The blow off valve is what gives the turbo cars the signature pssssss sound.
Last edited by Mihoerck79; Apr 26, 2015 at 05:35 AM.
Like Mihoerck79 said, the first picture is a bung for a stock heat shield from the stock 02 housing (downpipe). The second picture is the tubing that conects the intake to the BOV (recirulating) and will release pressure when the gas pedal is depressed. The BOV is stock. The third picture is of the wide band that was installed, was cut. He could of gotten a bolt to put there and not cut the wires. Could have been something wrong with it.
The cat is aftermarket. And with what you describe, sounds like it went to a muffler shop for a high flow cat and "new" exhaust system.
I believe a dealer can hook up to the computer and see when it was written or the last modified date stamp... I.E. when you install a Cobb AP, it will copy the stock map from the ECU and then write over it with the map you selected. And then when you uninstall it, it will write over the map with the stock one that was saved.
The cat is aftermarket. And with what you describe, sounds like it went to a muffler shop for a high flow cat and "new" exhaust system.
I believe a dealer can hook up to the computer and see when it was written or the last modified date stamp... I.E. when you install a Cobb AP, it will copy the stock map from the ECU and then write over it with the map you selected. And then when you uninstall it, it will write over the map with the stock one that was saved.
Thank you guys for the info! I was running on no sleep when I wrote that up but I'm so glad that most of the mods I was planning on doing are already installed. With it having the ets stuff but the stock uicp I agree that the previous owner removed the wide band and aftermarket uicp. Next step is to get a ebcs wide band and tune. I plan on fabricating my own uicp in the near future. The evo has been my dream car since I firstvdrove one on gran tourismo 2 lol. Thanks again guys!
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Congrats on getting an Evo X and welcome to the community!
As the other mentioned above most of that seems like a quick job to get it close as possible to stock. Looks like they were hunting for any part to get it put back together and left you a few goodies they couldn't put back. ETS Intakes btw are awesome!
I would HIGHLY recommend you not drive that card hard or any case at all without confirming all the missing parts and/or a retune to the current state.
A improper tune with improper parts and be extremely costly in the future to fix if not dealt with right correctly. Check out the tuning forum pages, as many people can do E-tuning anywhere in the world! All you need to do is ensure a wideband Air fuel ratio + boost gauge are installed and you have a way to log the tune and have it be sent to the e-tuner to correction. Another option is if you are near a tuner you could have them run it on the dyno and have it correct that way too.
Have fun with your new car and again, welcome!
As the other mentioned above most of that seems like a quick job to get it close as possible to stock. Looks like they were hunting for any part to get it put back together and left you a few goodies they couldn't put back. ETS Intakes btw are awesome!
I would HIGHLY recommend you not drive that card hard or any case at all without confirming all the missing parts and/or a retune to the current state.
A improper tune with improper parts and be extremely costly in the future to fix if not dealt with right correctly. Check out the tuning forum pages, as many people can do E-tuning anywhere in the world! All you need to do is ensure a wideband Air fuel ratio + boost gauge are installed and you have a way to log the tune and have it be sent to the e-tuner to correction. Another option is if you are near a tuner you could have them run it on the dyno and have it correct that way too.
Have fun with your new car and again, welcome!
Thank you for the welcome! I am stuck trying to decide to go with a cob ap, ecu flash (this includes spending countless hours learning how to properly use the software), or suck it up and pay over $500 for a dyno tune at my local shop. Im not too fond of the prices which is why I kind of want to do it myself with ECU flash and I have common mods so it wouldn't be hard to get an e tune but...Ugh which would you suggest?
Thank you for the welcome! I am stuck trying to decide to go with a cob ap, ecu flash (this includes spending countless hours learning how to properly use the software), or suck it up and pay over $500 for a dyno tune at my local shop. Im not too fond of the prices which is why I kind of want to do it myself with ECU flash and I have common mods so it wouldn't be hard to get an e tune but...Ugh which would you suggest?
How do I know if I have an after market clutch? The reason I ask is that 70% of the time when im getting on it hard I miss 2nd gear its like Im letting off the pedal too early...but Im pretty sure im not lol


