So yeah, if I was in highish rpm at around 4.5 to 5 (still in break in, so below 5000 rpm...) and let it go, i can hear a thunk noise and feel it a bit.

This is in non-sport and in automatic mode. I did not hard accelerate, just hard let off (if I ease off the gas, it doesn't happen).

I see others mention something like this but no one found out the exact reason... (http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/sho...=250690&page=3 and
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-throttle.html )

anyone got a clue as to what this is? is it normal considering the car is new and i'm not even pushing it to the red line and letting off...

and i did not like floor it and then let off either... it was a slowish acceleration (half way peddle? a bit more?).

 

If you get goofy with the gas you can get some odd noises and feelings to come from the SST. Just keep doing your breakin and learning your car.

 

don't Worry about every small sound you'll go crazy its a brand new car

 

hmm do you mean i should not completely go off the gas unless it was an emergency then?

the best theory i have (from a friend who is more mechanically inclined) is the flywheel is not that big, and once the turbos are shut off, something has to be done to the excess speed the thing is spinning at.

or the transmission is doing something to disengage itself.

 

I'll try and recreate and let you know on my car. I never noticed such a thing, but have noticed if I am going along and have to get off the gas suddenly at a higher RPM it will not feel the best but I think that is by design.

Also look around for how to drive an MR it's recommended to drive S Sport manual all the time, and put it in neutral during long stops. (in a nutshell)

 

EH? S sport would mean the turbos engage all the time right? in normal mode the thing tries to keep it under 3k RPM (aka turbos off).

is it better to drive in S Sport manual / automatic? and just let the engine rev and turbos come on / off all the time?

is this to not allow the thing to switch all the time (the shorter gear ratio is even shorter when one limits to 3k rpm), would it be worse for the engine / turbos? and i just have to choose between a engine rebuild or a transmission rebuild a few years down the road?

 

Yeah I've noticed this too when I am at the track. Whenever I abruptly lift off from WOT at high revs (5500-6000 rpm), there is a noticeable/harsh thunk from the driveline. I am thinking it is coming from the transfer case...but that's my hypothesis. To get around this, I slowly lift a little then completely let off the gas and it doesn't "thunk".

I think it's normal, it's just the aggressive nature of the drive train when driven hard.

 

Forget about using automatic mode and shift for yourself. The difference between normal, sport, and s-sport is the amount of slip the clutch generates. normal has a high slip rate which equates to "smooth" and slow shifting. S-sport generates the least amount of slip and produces the most aggressive gear shifts, but also helps preserve clutch life.

It is recommended you drive in either sport, or s-sport and avoid using normal. I use sport when putting around town and s-sport when I do a pull or track.

the different shift modes has nothing to do with how the turbos work.

 

ah okay then, i will try them out thanks.

and the whole point of me going MR instead of GSR is the whole no need to always shift in a stupid bumper to bumper on the 101 scenario. is auto that bad?

 

It just wears down your clutch packs faster is all. Honestly using the paddle shifters and S Sport manual I never even notice problems in traffic. It's not like you are rowing gears and using a clutch.

You can certainly drive in Normal or Sport automatic, it just will decrease your clutch life because they slip more to make things more smooth.

After driving with S Sport manual all the time I don't like feeling the slipping lol.

S Sport doesn't change any turbo behavior per say, you can drive it just as calmly as normal mode just choose to shift lower in the RPM range and there is zero difference.

This isn't a true automatic, it's a sequential clutch transmission that mimics an automatic at some level. But it's still a clutch based system. That's why putting it in neutral at stops / red lights prolongs things as well because the clutches aren't engaged holding the car in place etc..

 

Should I also try to keep the turbo off in day to day driving by starting under 3k rpm then

 

Just follow the breakin procedure I think I stayed under 4k, varying the RPM's for about 600 miles then started working up from there to hit 800. Also it is highly recommended to change out your SST transmission fluid at around 1500 to get any breakin materials out of it. Yes that is painfully expensive, but worth it if you intend to keep the car.

 

hmm those cost around 500-700 dollars including a fluid and filter change right?

i think i will do one at 1500, some say do 2, once at 600 and once at 1500 but i think 1500 is it.

i hope i can get that from the dealer, it seems there isn't that much evo specialization shops around here (or there is, just the bay area evo owner facebook group deems me not worthy to join it...)

 

Do it at the dealership should be fine.

 

Stealership is too costly. I bring my own SST oil and filter to local performance shop, it can save big bucks. I am in Bay Area as well.