How did you like the end result? These are the same mods, although different brands, that I am doing all at once from stock.

 

1)the only cai setups are agp and ams, the others are either sri,drop-in filter, or they replace the stock airbox.
2)H&R, Swift, Gt worx all have great reviews, so this is up to you
3)there is no such thing as a "chip", but you can get tune either by open source or by cobb's ap
4)with the boost gauge i would also get a wideband although you'll need a downpipe or testpipe(hfc if not allowed to run a testpipe) that has a wideband bung
5)stock strut bar is fine unless you want a lighter one
6)a turbo-back exhaust is what i recommend, as for the headers the stock on is fine even on a bigger stock frame turbo
7)with shocks , some get the mr's bilstein, another option is to get coilovers

most of these questions could be answered by searching the forum
so in summary i would recommend

for the exterior i would get springs if you don't want to spend money on coilovers

as for performance
1) Cobb ap (as you can add parts using the ots maps until you get a pro tune)
2) Boost gauge and Wideband
3) test pipe or hfc
4) a uicp
5) cat back
gather these parts and wait to install until you get a pro tune as it'll be more cost efficient
1) 3port
2) intake
3)downpipe
4)fmic (altough the stock one is fine)

make sure you get quality parts for you evo

 

You can put it in whenever. Just follow standard breakin. On the stance thing, if you want to lower the car a bit to assist with handling or reduce some of the gap, great, but if you go for a full stanced EVO, you will, in my opinion, ruin one of the best things about this car, the handling. Good luck and it's definitely your car, but I think stancing is a shame to do to such a high performance car.

Enjoy!

 

I like it alot, it was night and day for sure. The throttle response, and power was way better then stock. On the dyno the car made around 240hp as a base, after it was all said and done the car made 305hp and 338 torque, this was a on a mustang dyno which reads a good bit lower then a dynojet. That also was with a HFC installed as well which I decided to replace with a testpipe. The only thing I regret is my downpipe I just purchased a basic pipe. I wish I would have done either a open dump or one of the better ones from MAP which would have also gained a little more. Also I would recommend if you can afford it doing E85 and upgrading the fuel pump and injectors for an even better gains.

 

Round 1: Upgraded panel filter. I was talking with the Cobb tuner about their intake when I was getting my my tune done and they said their best results come from drop-in panel filters. Food for thought when the tuner pushes you away from their product for something else.

Round 2: Grab yourself an EBC, 3" TBE, and get yourself a protune. Don't waste the money on the AP unless that's what your tuner uses and save up until you can get the full exhaust, not some crummy CBE.

Round 3: Upgrade UICP, LICP, tubular mani, injectors, pump, update tune, and rear sway bar

Round 4: At this point you should have been autocrossing, dragging, or some other form of racing. Go with what your wallet and heart desires...

 

Same question and/or concern. Is the Intercooler a must?

My plan for better flow (of gas) to the engine of my unmodified EVO X MR are:

- drop in panel filter
- high flow cat
- 3 port boost solenoid
- pro tune (open source)

I plan to change/modify nothing else. Thanks in advance!

 

When does the diverter value become a must to the modification equation?

 

No intercooler is not a must, but it will net you a few more ponies when getting your tune and better performance at the track (reduce heat soaking). You should be fine with those mods. Why not get a whole new exhaust system? Btw I would also suggest going to either Moore Automtive or CBRD for your tune since you are in the DMV area

 

Thanks Alex. As to your recommendation, both shops will be assessed. As to your question, I'm seeking the biggest "bang for the buck" mods to allow the engine to breathe more smoothly, efficiently and effectively.

 

My route which has gotten multiple MR and GSR in the low 12.

LICP (NOT NEEDED WASTE OF MONEY)
UICP (Great mod)
CRUSHED OEM BOV (freebie mod)
3Port boost controler get a GM with harness from spoolinup around 60 bucks or Grimspeed
Down pipe I like the O2 dump from either map or ets
Test Pipe
Exhaust to keep the weight down
Drop in Filter or ETS Intake (ETS Intake doesnt need that much scaling)
A tune from chet or bak

 

So asked differently. One of the reputable and highly recommended tuners in my area says the BOV is a near must when getting a tune with them - per my planned components list. Searching through this thread and forum, I didn't get the sense of the criticality of the BOV for my needs. Can the experts chime in?

 

I think it depends on how much boost you want to run. The stock BOV can only hold around 27 psi, then it will start to leak. (I'm not an expert)

 

I see these posts periodically, where folks opine on different critical mods. I'll weigh in as I feel strongly that the mod list is very dependent on driving style, objectives, and car use.

That said, I've suggested that your first mod is an HPDE day. Not only will you fine tune your driving skills but, importantly, you will fine tune your understanding of what you want the car to do, what it does well, where it is lacking.

For example, you might find that you don't need much more power but you hate the braking. Or the braking is bad but you really want better low boost throttle response and torque.

Make sense? I guarantee that, after the $300 track day "mod", you will have a very clear picture of what's next. $300 feel expensive? I suggest that you will find that it will save money, lost, in helping you find the right mod path.

Trust me on this.

 

This is probably the best route for the best bang for the buck.

The only change I would do is instead of drop in filter, ill go with the ETS intake (OEM size tube for MAF sensor) and maybe add cat back for more sound.

 

1. Driver
2. Bolt-ons and tune
3. Suspension, Wheels/Tires and brakes
4. Turbo, fuel and re-tune

2-3 should be based on what you and your tuner agree upon.