When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I Posted this on the Evo X Tuning/Engine page, got over TWO HUNDRED views and not a single reply. Hopefully it will do better here:
Dear Forum Members.
I just paid off my 2010 Evo X (bought used in 2012). Now that I have an extra $300/month laying around, I want to put that into some mods. I am 38 years old, married, and have 2 kids so I'm looking for some increases in performance while still using my car as a daily driver. I've done lots of research and based on that, I'm looking for something around the 290 - 300 HP range. Based on my research, here is what I'm planning to purchase to get me to those numbers;
1. MXP Catback Exhaust ($525) - I want this because it's quiet and I won't run into any emissions issues.
2. Agency Power Short Ram Intake ($250) - Supposed to be direct fit without any cutting or modifications
3. Grimmspeed 3-port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid ($110) - supposed to be easy plug & play installation.
4. Evo X MR OEM Blow-off Valve ($200) - Stock PLASTIC GSR BOV is prone to leaking where Stock METAL MR BOV is much more efficient
5. Professional Tune
My questions are you guys are:
1. Will these mods get me to around the 290 - 300 HP range SAFELY?
2. Are there any other mods that I should look to get?
Keep in mind that this is my DD and once I get a tune, I'm expecting to keep the car that way well into the foreseeable future. Once I get another car as a DD, then I'll look to do more major power/component increases. I want something that just gives me better performance while also staying in the SAFE range so that I don't run the risk of engine/transmission failure.
Safety is relative, but I think most on here would agree that anything under 350whp/wtq is well within the ability of the entire drivetrain. Just stay on top of regular maintenance would be the main suggestion. Always use high quality fluids. If revving high everywhere or doing aggressive driving you may want to reduce the time between fluid changes. 3,000mi for motor and 20,000mi for drivetrain/transmission.
A tune alone will net you 290-300whp. If that were your only goal I would say stop there. The intake and catback exhaust would be nice to have for the sound. It's nice to hear whooshes and a little exhaust noise. You will also likely be in the 300+whp range with those mods. Doing a full turbo back exhaust should let you push it to the mid 300's but that sounds like it is beyond your goals.
Another note, I would have the tuner just install the 3port so you don't have to drive there with it on. You could conceivably do it if you drove carefully and stayed out of boost but it's a fast install and the tuner shouldn't charge you much.
With just a tune, zero mods, from the right tuner(keyword here) can net you 300 to the wheels. While staying stock quiet. Check out Englishracing.net
Aaron from ER tuned my car back in 2015.
Can’t comment on MXP. If you want quiet, check out Magnaflow catback. Also look into English’s boost activated cut out.
I remember my first mod was hard top and bottom intercooler piping with no tune and it knocked every time I got into boost with cel flashing. So whatever you decide to do, tune it right away, even if it's just a catback. Tuning is everything on the evo.
What do you plan to do with the car?
ie: are you just looking for more fun from your dd or do you plan on doing any type of racing?
I think that will help guide you into what you should do. For instance, if you were to autocross the car the 3 port will bump you into a higher class than just the intake and exhaust.
The three best bang for buck mods on the Evo X are a 3 port EBC, a test pipe, and an intake. Obviously you’ll need a tune. But these three mods will net you more gains than any other bolt on when first starting to mod mod your car. A cat back style exhaust will make minimal if any gains. For the stock turbo or any aftermarket stock replacement turbo the OEM LICP is fine. A licp will net you zero gains. An uicp won’t net you hp gains, however it’ll increase spool slightly. OEM fmic is fine for stock turbo. Upgrading will net you gains but it’s an expensive first mod. A downpipe is another relatively expensive mod that can make more power depending on your setup. Unless you want a quiet setup, there is no reason to get a recirculated downpipe. An 02 dump is loud but it’ll help make more power as it eliminates backpressure within the turbine house. Once again I only recommend this mod if you’re trying to squeeze every last hp out of yoirnstock turbo, otherwise just leave stock.
The site suggest doing an exhaust, tune, and intake because, while they will not necessarily net you HUGE gains, they will make the car perform/respond better while still keeping your car reliable as a DD.
Next, to clarify, I AM NOT GOING TO RACE MY CAR ! ! ! As I said (to those who read it)my plan is to just improve the daily driving performance of my car. Once I have $$$ saved up to buy a 2nd DD, then I'll dump more $$$ into the Evo and start doing Auto-X stuff here in Phoenix. I am married with 2 kids so I can't afford to have my car not road ready because I was off racing and tinkering with it on the weekend. I also stated that I don't want to deal with any emissions issues so all this downpipe/testpipe, larger turbo, etc stuff isn't going to apply to me at this moment.
My goal is to get the car up to around 275 - 290HP safely.
Finally, there was another site (I'll try to find an provide a link) where it stated that the Evo X GSR BOVs had plastic parts while the MR had all metal. Its also where it suggested getting the Electronic Boost Controller.
I really appreciate the advice you guys are providing but PLEASE keep in mind that this car is still going to be used as a DD and I want to keep it legal and reliable as well.
If all you want is high 200whp safely, just keep the car stock and get a dyno tune saved onto a Cobb Accessport. That is the cheapest path, and requires the no physical modifications to your car. It also makes it possible to turn back to stock in seconds using the flash feature on the accessport. You could always just do the catback for sound. Based on what you are saying that seems the best path. Be warned though, starting on the modding path can become habit forming and never ending.
The Evo X GSR clutch master cylinder is plastic and known to fail. The Evo IX was metal and stronger and it is common for people to convert to the Evo IX CMC when replacing the clutch. Maybe this is what you are referring to? On a stock pressure clutch it is mostly a non issue and Mitsubishi had a recall on it years ago to replace with a stronger plastic version.
Here is a picture of my 20012 GSR with stock valve. It's as metal as Slayer. Magneto could rip it from the car with his mutant powers.
I did a little research on it. Sounds like the Evo 8 base model had plastic and MR was metal. Im pretty sure all X's are metal. The Raliart is plastic as well I believe.
Do you already have basic engine monitoring gauges? If not that is definitely a good thing to have to help notice issues before they escalate to major problems.