N00b purchase advice
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
N00b purchase advice
Hi, all. I'm a Subaru guy for years, but I have my eye on an Evo X GSR. I did some research, but part research only gets you so far. I *think* the car was tuned at JMS, but I can't be sure as the car is on its 4th owner and he has no dyno sheets. What I do have is the mod list below, it looks to be quality parts, but I was hoping for some more knowledge/advice from you guys who know a ton more on these cars and the configurations they can be ran in. Also, anything to look out for? I know about the death whine, but not much else. How do these blocks hold up to the power/torque? Life expectancy, etc. Any help and advice is appreciated.
475hp/335 ft-lbs on 91 and 542hp/383 ft-lbs on E85
ETS- 3.5 intercooler, hard piping, 3.5 MAP adapter, 1.9 tubular manifold, open dump downpipe, test pipe, extreme exhaust. (I’m assuming all these parts are ETS)
COBB- Accessport V3
bypass valve
3-port ebcs
DW- 1300cc injectors
265 fuel pump
Driven Fab- oil catch can
Kelford- 214c camshafts and valve springs
Exedy- twin disk clutch HD with monoloc
Mishimoto- coolant hoses
Tomei- oil thermostat
killer MAP
Ef4 turbo
master cylinder upgrade
cam angle sensor
heat shield
H11 head studs
Cometic- head gasket
475hp/335 ft-lbs on 91 and 542hp/383 ft-lbs on E85
ETS- 3.5 intercooler, hard piping, 3.5 MAP adapter, 1.9 tubular manifold, open dump downpipe, test pipe, extreme exhaust. (I’m assuming all these parts are ETS)
COBB- Accessport V3
bypass valve
3-port ebcs
DW- 1300cc injectors
265 fuel pump
Driven Fab- oil catch can
Kelford- 214c camshafts and valve springs
Exedy- twin disk clutch HD with monoloc
Mishimoto- coolant hoses
Tomei- oil thermostat
killer MAP
Ef4 turbo
master cylinder upgrade
cam angle sensor
heat shield
H11 head studs
Cometic- head gasket
#2
My question to you is why not bone stock and since you listed test pipe is this for track/race only? I've driven cars I bought fully modded and the Evo X is a blast to drive as is. I'm sure you have your reasons as to why you are looking at this particular one so be patient and cautious as it's on it's 4th owner. Since it's heavily modded you should ask who did the work and if they have receipts for it. Nothing worse than to have shoddy work and something bad happens especially now that it won't have any warranty on the engine.
To answer your questions. Overall reliable car and if you were looking at a bone stock car common problems are paint chipping(what car doesn't), AYC pump(early year evo x), clutch, tires, timing belt after 75k miles. I would offer you my evo x but I lost my old account I created here and have to wait 15 days before I can post it in the classified for sale. Good luck in finding one unless your dead set on this one, which if you are look over it as much as you can and bring someone that knows the evo to give you an opinion as well.
To answer your questions. Overall reliable car and if you were looking at a bone stock car common problems are paint chipping(what car doesn't), AYC pump(early year evo x), clutch, tires, timing belt after 75k miles. I would offer you my evo x but I lost my old account I created here and have to wait 15 days before I can post it in the classified for sale. Good luck in finding one unless your dead set on this one, which if you are look over it as much as you can and bring someone that knows the evo to give you an opinion as well.
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
My question to you is why not bone stock and since you listed test pipe is this for track/race only? I've driven cars I bought fully modded and the Evo X is a blast to drive as is. I'm sure you have your reasons as to why you are looking at this particular one so be patient and cautious as it's on it's 4th owner. Since it's heavily modded you should ask who did the work and if they have receipts for it. Nothing worse than to have shoddy work and something bad happens especially now that it won't have any warranty on the engine.
To answer your questions. Overall reliable car and if you were looking at a bone stock car common problems are paint chipping(what car doesn't), AYC pump(early year evo x), clutch, tires, timing belt after 75k miles. I would offer you my evo x but I lost my old account I created here and have to wait 15 days before I can post it in the classified for sale. Good luck in finding one unless your dead set on this one, which if you are look over it as much as you can and bring someone that knows the evo to give you an opinion as well.
To answer your questions. Overall reliable car and if you were looking at a bone stock car common problems are paint chipping(what car doesn't), AYC pump(early year evo x), clutch, tires, timing belt after 75k miles. I would offer you my evo x but I lost my old account I created here and have to wait 15 days before I can post it in the classified for sale. Good luck in finding one unless your dead set on this one, which if you are look over it as much as you can and bring someone that knows the evo to give you an opinion as well.
Thats what I was afraid of. I know it's been pushed, but it has low miles, maybe I'm being naive. I also have no idea what these cars are capable of handling and what the longevity is with said modifications.
#5
Evolved Member
The numbers seem fair and in line for a stock block car. I'm similar mod-wise minus the cams and making about the same power safely on 94 as that does on 91, and it's been that way all last season and I drive a lot, and hard. Number of owners shouldn't matter as much as how the car was maintained and who/how the work was done and tuned. The pump gas tune making 335 ft-lbs is pretty damn safe (number wise). Torque kills these engines before HP, and a general rule of thumb is 400wtq is about the limit for the stock rods and 550-600whp for the stock cylinder walls/sleeves. These are dirty numbers, it can all vary of course car to car mod to mod tune to tune, it's just a guide. Personally I would take a safe tuned big turbo car over an aggressively tuned stock turbo car. The stock turbo has no problem making enough torque to kill a stock engine.
If you're set on this car and want to mod and tinker, before purchase, I suggest getting somebody that knows these cars really well to look it over. Perhaps even a good shop. If it checks out well, enjoy it It will be a nice change coming from a Subaru.
If you're set on this car and want to mod and tinker, before purchase, I suggest getting somebody that knows these cars really well to look it over. Perhaps even a good shop. If it checks out well, enjoy it It will be a nice change coming from a Subaru.
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spoolin919 (Feb 26, 2018)
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
The numbers seem fair and in line for a stock block car. I'm similar mod-wise minus the cams and making about the same power safely on 94 as that does on 91, and it's been that way all last season and I drive a lot, and hard. Number of owners shouldn't matter as much as how the car was maintained and who/how the work was done and tuned. The pump gas tune making 335 ft-lbs is pretty damn safe (number wise). Torque kills these engines before HP, and a general rule of thumb is 400wtq is about the limit for the stock rods and 550-600whp for the stock cylinder walls/sleeves. These are dirty numbers, it can all vary of course car to car mod to mod tune to tune, it's just a guide. Personally I would take a safe tuned big turbo car over an aggressively tuned stock turbo car. The stock turbo has no problem making enough torque to kill a stock engine.
If you're set on this car and want to mod and tinker, before purchase, I suggest getting somebody that knows these cars really well to look it over. Perhaps even a good shop. If it checks out well, enjoy it It will be a nice change coming from a Subaru.
If you're set on this car and want to mod and tinker, before purchase, I suggest getting somebody that knows these cars really well to look it over. Perhaps even a good shop. If it checks out well, enjoy it It will be a nice change coming from a Subaru.
I'm near ForceFed so I have a good shop close by, but the vehicle isn't close, so I'd have to get creative on working that out.
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
The numbers seem fair and in line for a stock block car. I'm similar mod-wise minus the cams and making about the same power safely on 94 as that does on 91, and it's been that way all last season and I drive a lot, and hard. Number of owners shouldn't matter as much as how the car was maintained and who/how the work was done and tuned. The pump gas tune making 335 ft-lbs is pretty damn safe (number wise). Torque kills these engines before HP, and a general rule of thumb is 400wtq is about the limit for the stock rods and 550-600whp for the stock cylinder walls/sleeves. These are dirty numbers, it can all vary of course car to car mod to mod tune to tune, it's just a guide. Personally I would take a safe tuned big turbo car over an aggressively tuned stock turbo car. The stock turbo has no problem making enough torque to kill a stock engine.
If you're set on this car and want to mod and tinker, before purchase, I suggest getting somebody that knows these cars really well to look it over. Perhaps even a good shop. If it checks out well, enjoy it It will be a nice change coming from a Subaru.
If you're set on this car and want to mod and tinker, before purchase, I suggest getting somebody that knows these cars really well to look it over. Perhaps even a good shop. If it checks out well, enjoy it It will be a nice change coming from a Subaru.
I have ForceFed right near me, I'd just have to negotiate how to get the car there for a PPI. The car is located nowhere near a good shop for these cars.
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#8
Evolved Member
Thanks, Id like a modified one as I know I'll want it modify it, but I don't have that kind of time in my life any more. Figured I'd save on $, time and busted knuckles getting one that is already done well.
Thats what I was afraid of. I know it's been pushed, but it has low miles, maybe I'm being naive. I also have no idea what these cars are capable of handling and what the longevity is with said modifications.
Thats what I was afraid of. I know it's been pushed, but it has low miles, maybe I'm being naive. I also have no idea what these cars are capable of handling and what the longevity is with said modifications.
#9
Evolving Member
Sorry but I've GOT to add my .02 to this conversation. This is MY personal opinion and others may disagree but this is how "I" see it. ANYONE selling a modded car (especially heavily modded like this one) should be able to produce some, if not all of the maint. receipts. If not, WALK AWAY ! ! ! ! ! ! ! If you are patient, promise me, you'll find a good Evo for sale. The Evo is a fun car to drive and the more owers it's had, the more likely ONE of them beat the sh*t out of it. When I'm in the market for a used car (especially a performance car), I always ask the seller for maint. records. If they say, "I do most of my own maint," OR "I don't have them", I usually walk away OR offer much lower than what they are asking. I feel that car owners should keep good, detailed records of their vehicles because when it's time to sell it, having all that paperwork only HELPS you because it shows the buyer what has been done, when it was done, who did the work, AND shows that you, most likely, took pretty good care of the car.
In the end, it's your money but this car will mostly likely end up having problems sooner rather than later and TOO many hands have touched this vehicle for it to be worth it for me. Now, if you or a friend are mechanically inclined or you have a hookup who can get you OEM/aftermarket parts at cost, it may be worth the gamble but I think you should walk away and wait for a better Evo to become available.
In the end, it's your money but this car will mostly likely end up having problems sooner rather than later and TOO many hands have touched this vehicle for it to be worth it for me. Now, if you or a friend are mechanically inclined or you have a hookup who can get you OEM/aftermarket parts at cost, it may be worth the gamble but I think you should walk away and wait for a better Evo to become available.
#11
Evolving Member
+1 to Lando’s comment. I keep meticulous maintenance records and receipts in a folder book for resale purposes. And I’d expect a fellow responsible car enthusiast to do the same.
In in your case, buy a close to stock car as possible.
In in your case, buy a close to stock car as possible.
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