I just pushed my Staples "that was easy" button Very simple to change pads in this car. You also don't have to push the pistons in very much and they are easy push.

Interesting to note that the rear pads are made by Brembo, but my stock pads are made by Ferodo , part number 4487. Anyone else have these?

Compared to Stoptech calipers, these Brembos take a little longer to take the clip off and put it back on. Center punching the pins out the back is easy but takes many small taps and they must be pulled out by hand in the back. Same reverse proceedure for re-installation. To make removal and installation of the pins easier, especially on the front, you need to hold down the spring clip with one finger as you thread the pin back. Technique gets better with practice. The Stoptechs have an easy allen key design which is unscrewed and screwed back from the outside face.

I can start a new thread or just continue here for directions on replace rotors.

Looks like three bolts on the rear spindle, two of which probably hold on the caliper. There is also a hard line connection with an addition bolt on the back of the caliper. Which bolts are to be removed to drop the caliper and what do you do with the hard line? Rotor in front is not set screwed in so I looks like it will just slip off and a new set of rotors (Girodisks!) can go right back on.

Comments/Instructions please.

 

You guys bleed your fluid every time you swap from track to street pads? Isn't that a bit excessive?

 

I did this on my Evo 8 before, so it's pretty much the same on an Evo X? Only thing is last time i did it i also changed my rotors, and i removed the bolt holding the calipers in place, to get the pads on. I used a c clamp to push the pistons back, does changing just one pad at a time prevent the pistons from coming back out?

 

any pics on this?

 

I will post a how-to with pics once I am done getting my fokk-up fixed (tried to remove rear rotor while parking brake was on). Flame suit on.

 

I don't change pads just to get back on the street but I do pump clean fluid through each port *before* I swap pads. Always. Now if you don't get your brakes hot on track, then that's a different story but I will assume your brakes get *hot*.

When I worked at the Bondurant School, we torque-checked lug nuts every time a car came off-track at the end of the session and filled the fuel tank (those ~14 gallon tanks would only last a little over an hour at speed), and then sucked a bit of fluid from each corner at the end of every day the car was in track use. Every six weeks, whether the car as in-use or not, ALL fluids were changed. Strange, but nobody considered that excessive.

Unfortunately all that meticulous maintenance didn't keep students (and sometimes instructors!) from doing damage to cars or running them off the pavement.

 

Yes, that is why driving school is expensive...

 

heh heh i did it to my evo VIII before too. But i partially blame my bro in law for that. I purposely left the e-brake down but sometime during the change he pulled it without telling me...

 

well, had the car towed to the dealership, dealership gave an estimate of 300 odd amount and they have to replace 6 parts in there. Boy, I really messed up. But hey, its still cheaper to do it my-self. Once I get the car back on monday, I'll do the rears. I've already taken pictures of the fronts when the wheels were off to post a How-To on here.

 

Getting the vehicle back today, can't wait to finish the brake job!!