Searched this forum but nothing came up. Proceedure for changing front and rear pads. Anyone have diagram or pics? Just pop out the upper retaining clip with screwdriver or remove caliper bolts from back side of caliper to free clip and pads?

 

you have to hammer out the drift pins using a punch. then the clip and everything else (pads etc) just come out.

 

sweet double post

 

from the front / outside of the caliper where the pointed pins stick out?

 

you put the punch on the tip that's on the outside and whack it with a hammer and it will push out the back.

Be careful so you don't hit the caliper because the paint will chip

 

I don't wanna ask how you know that

 

Be sure to change your brake fluid FIRST.

 

Remember to change one pad at a time, take one out and replace it with the new one before you go to the other side of the caliper.

 

thanks. Will try this weekend.

"Be sure to change your brake fluid FIRST."

Just changing from street to track and back to street. No need to change fluid if it is fresh.

"Remember to change one pad at a time, take one out and replace it with the new one before you go to the other side of the caliper."

Why? I don't believe the pistons will close any farther after the removal of the pads. does this caliper behave differently than others? I will assume that you have to push back the pistons a bit to fit a full depth new pad in. I guess leaving one new side in will help keep that side's piston in place better with less movement. I usually use the back side of the pad to push the pistons back into the caliper enough to get the new pads in.

Thanks for the assistance.

 

Here's where you and I may disagree.

The fluid only gets hot at the calipers. So the fluid in the calipers wears out first at least as far as elevated temps while the atmospheric moisture probably comes from the master cylinder resevior filler area. Then when you push the pistons back into the calipers - to make enough room to swap pads - that "used" fluid goes back to the master cylinder and through the ABS valves, etc. Places where we (at least *I*) don't want the dirtier fluid to get to.

Hence my reasoning to pump fresh fluid through the caliper - so there's only fresh fluid in the caliper - before pushing the pistons back in to change pads.

BTW - don't fill the MC when changing pads so there's some room for the excess fluid displaced by the pistons to not overflow the MC resevior. I keep a clean turkey baster handy just for sucking some fluid out of the MC res.

Naturally, IMHO.

 

That is a valid point worth considering. At least I can bleed the caliper fluid and freshen up the resevoir to the fill line when swapping pads until a full flush is called for. Thanks for the discussion.

 

If you crack the bleeder before pushing the pistons back 2 good things happen and 1 bad thing.

-the heat cycled fluid in the caliper goe sout the bleeder
-the piston goes back much more easily


BUT...

you have to bleed the brakes afterward since you opened the system.

 

You guys are crazy if you just push the pistons back in without opening the bleeders

pushing fluid backwards through the system is not good for it

this used to be the way to do it BEFORE ABS systems
on abs systems this can damage the system and be very costly to repair

and if you use the proper tools when opening the bleeder and compressing the pistons there is no need to re bleed the system you should only have to top of the ms with fresh fluid

although depending on how hard you use your brakes it might be a good idea to do a brake fluid flush

 

Can you validate this fact? Where is it written that you should not press in the pistons upon changing the pads, in any recent car? Never had a problem before, but am seriously interested in knowing why not.

 

It is done all the time without opening the bleeder - hence the poliferation of piston push back tools on the market.

But in the effort of being maybe a bit **** - he is right.

And - if you have a bleeder cup w/ hose - you can put that on ther bleeder and keep the cup above the bleed screw and you don't have to rebleed. When you push the piston back - which can now be done w/ the fingers as the bleeder is open - a column of fluid stays atop the screw to keep air from getting sucked back in.

(that may be hard to see in your mind - hope I stated it clearly)