Brake Pad Change
#1
Brake Pad Change
Searched this forum but nothing came up. Proceedure for changing front and rear pads. Anyone have diagram or pics? Just pop out the upper retaining clip with screwdriver or remove caliper bolts from back side of caliper to free clip and pads?
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#9
thanks. Will try this weekend.
"Be sure to change your brake fluid FIRST."
Just changing from street to track and back to street. No need to change fluid if it is fresh.
"Remember to change one pad at a time, take one out and replace it with the new one before you go to the other side of the caliper."
Why? I don't believe the pistons will close any farther after the removal of the pads. does this caliper behave differently than others? I will assume that you have to push back the pistons a bit to fit a full depth new pad in. I guess leaving one new side in will help keep that side's piston in place better with less movement. I usually use the back side of the pad to push the pistons back into the caliper enough to get the new pads in.
Thanks for the assistance.
"Be sure to change your brake fluid FIRST."
Just changing from street to track and back to street. No need to change fluid if it is fresh.
"Remember to change one pad at a time, take one out and replace it with the new one before you go to the other side of the caliper."
Why? I don't believe the pistons will close any farther after the removal of the pads. does this caliper behave differently than others? I will assume that you have to push back the pistons a bit to fit a full depth new pad in. I guess leaving one new side in will help keep that side's piston in place better with less movement. I usually use the back side of the pad to push the pistons back into the caliper enough to get the new pads in.
Thanks for the assistance.
#10
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"Be sure to change your brake fluid FIRST."
Just changing from street to track and back to street. No need to change fluid if it is fresh.
Just changing from street to track and back to street. No need to change fluid if it is fresh.
The fluid only gets hot at the calipers. So the fluid in the calipers wears out first at least as far as elevated temps while the atmospheric moisture probably comes from the master cylinder resevior filler area. Then when you push the pistons back into the calipers - to make enough room to swap pads - that "used" fluid goes back to the master cylinder and through the ABS valves, etc. Places where we (at least *I*) don't want the dirtier fluid to get to.
Hence my reasoning to pump fresh fluid through the caliper - so there's only fresh fluid in the caliper - before pushing the pistons back in to change pads.
BTW - don't fill the MC when changing pads so there's some room for the excess fluid displaced by the pistons to not overflow the MC resevior. I keep a clean turkey baster handy just for sucking some fluid out of the MC res.
Naturally, IMHO.
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If you crack the bleeder before pushing the pistons back 2 good things happen and 1 bad thing.
-the heat cycled fluid in the caliper goe sout the bleeder
-the piston goes back much more easily
BUT...
you have to bleed the brakes afterward since you opened the system.
-the heat cycled fluid in the caliper goe sout the bleeder
-the piston goes back much more easily
BUT...
you have to bleed the brakes afterward since you opened the system.
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You guys are crazy if you just push the pistons back in without opening the bleeders
pushing fluid backwards through the system is not good for it
this used to be the way to do it BEFORE ABS systems
on abs systems this can damage the system and be very costly to repair
and if you use the proper tools when opening the bleeder and compressing the pistons there is no need to re bleed the system you should only have to top of the ms with fresh fluid
although depending on how hard you use your brakes it might be a good idea to do a brake fluid flush
pushing fluid backwards through the system is not good for it
this used to be the way to do it BEFORE ABS systems
on abs systems this can damage the system and be very costly to repair
and if you use the proper tools when opening the bleeder and compressing the pistons there is no need to re bleed the system you should only have to top of the ms with fresh fluid
although depending on how hard you use your brakes it might be a good idea to do a brake fluid flush
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It is done all the time without opening the bleeder - hence the poliferation of piston push back tools on the market.
But in the effort of being maybe a bit **** - he is right.
And - if you have a bleeder cup w/ hose - you can put that on ther bleeder and keep the cup above the bleed screw and you don't have to rebleed. When you push the piston back - which can now be done w/ the fingers as the bleeder is open - a column of fluid stays atop the screw to keep air from getting sucked back in.
(that may be hard to see in your mind - hope I stated it clearly)
But in the effort of being maybe a bit **** - he is right.
And - if you have a bleeder cup w/ hose - you can put that on ther bleeder and keep the cup above the bleed screw and you don't have to rebleed. When you push the piston back - which can now be done w/ the fingers as the bleeder is open - a column of fluid stays atop the screw to keep air from getting sucked back in.
(that may be hard to see in your mind - hope I stated it clearly)