I got mine done at a local shop, I got the ACT HDSS and ACT Streetlite flywheel. Feels way better than stock, feels like it has more torque and not as smooth like the VIII/IX

 

New exedy clutch and flywheel 12/13/08.
I know there is a break in period, but my car isn't nearly as powerful. I am not pushing it yetbut the car is not accelerationg anywhere close to the way it did with the stock oem setup
CAn someone inform tme with your wisdom...

 

this thing is and was a hassle. we have this work here in iowa, we would not reccomend anyone doing this without proper tools. I have read over and over on here that peopl ehave tried and quit. and i dont think anyone wants that headache. PLEASE take it to someone that has done this before. we took our time to do this so it required what the BOOK said it would do and thats was 10 hours. prepare to be charged that much @ the delearship

 

I got ClutchMasters FX300 and Lightweight Flywheel. It is a big differnce over stock. A little stiffer but not much. Accerelates faster and pulls harder than stock clutch. I took it to a transmission shop. It took them about 10 hours and it cost me $800. I recommend you ask people around your area to see who they recommend.

 

The hardest part of any clutch install is not having a lift and a tranny jack..

If you really want to do this yourself, and have all the necessary tools and the the "third hand". I suggest with the money saved, buy yourself an in-home lift (like a MaxJax), and a tranny jack from Harbor Freight. Then again, some people might say - spend the 800$ for the install instead, some of us want to make sure everything is torqued to spec when the parts are reinstalled and there's no guarantee that something won't be missed by your "local" shop (bolts missing and not torqued to spec and such).



Sometimes, the only way to guarantee that it's done right is by doing it yourself :] Unless you have EVO specialists in the area (eq. GST Motorsports, AMS, Road Race Engineering).

 

Just pulled the trans today. unlike the old EVO you don't have to pull downpipe, you DO need a slide hammer to take out axle shafts out of transfer case and trans. You DO need to pulll subframe and lower control arms. Here's what I did:

1. Pull intake
2. pull lower IC pipe
drain fluids from trans and transfer case. Also keep in mind there is hydraulic line going to transfer case part of the AYC. Use vice grips to keep too much from leaking out. Will need to be rebled.
3. undo shifter cables and connections on top of trans.
4. remove starter and top bolts on trans
5. Remove driveshaft (front piece only)
6. Undo the rear mount you'll need to take mount off subframe as well as the bolt/nut holding mount to trans but that is a bit tough to get to with subframe in place.
7. Undo steering rack bolts holding it to subframe, as well as small braclkets for lines and of course the brackets holding the sway bar end link and the lower ball joint in place.
8. Remove the front mount/crossbeam
9. remove the crossmember you'll have to twist the sway bar as you remove it.
10. No you have access to the transfer case. Remove driver side axle, you can just pull the passenger one out of transfer case.
11. use slide hammer to remove the stubs.
12. Start pulling the bolts on transfer case there are 6 including a hard to reach one on top plus one big longer one that goes through trans as well. 7 total.
transfer case will slide out (I have UR downpipe) you'll have to rotate the rear section up as you pull it out. tight squeeze but comes out.
13. you'll need the engine cradle to hold the engine up. you can now start to take the passenger trans mount off. Here's the stupid part, you also have to take the lower bracket holding the one rear stud on the trans otherwise trans will not clear. It's just 3 bolts. no the trans should be free.
14. pop the release bearing free and start taking the bolts off the bell housing. some are longer than others so pay attention.
15. trans can now be removed. mine came out pretty easily.

I'm missing some steps as I'm going off memory but gives you a brief rundown and although sounds not too bad it is a rough job and kicks your butt. Took me better part of 6 hours to get this thing out and had a friend help me towards the end. Bad part? I put in my Exedy Twin and for some reason the snap ring doesn't want to click into release bearing. Was too exhausted to diagnose so will take trans back out tomorrow and take a look to see what's happenning there. Got an extra release bearing just in case but worried they may have put wrong snap ring on the clutch cover. You NEED lift, slide hammer, trans jack, engine cradle and a second set of hands for the heavy parts. Hope this helps people.

 

You do NOT need to pull the lower control arms and subframe to remove the Evo X trans.

 

Doesn't look like the trans will clear the subframe when removing it so I pulled it. It wasn't bad to pull and did make it easy to take trans itself out and back in. I put in a twin which may limit clearance upon putting the trans back in.

 

Go the Twin installed. Feels great! Take a little bit to get used to it is all. Got the stock master cylinder for now. Will swap out to 9 MC later this week. Took out the slave restrictor as well. Figured it'd help with clutch feel and also with keeping the master alive for a bit. Boy that install isn't easy. Takes time. for a first timer figure 12 hours to do it all start to finish. Now time to get my exhaust built and retune!

 

I'm having a problem with my exedy twin, it doesn't want to engage and it sounds similar to your problem. What did you do to fix it? Did you need a new throw-out bearing? New snap ring?

 

actually I think the first tie I might have accidently moved the snap ring out of position with the input shaft upon installing so I removed trans, took out and reinstalled snap ring and put trans back in. Snapped right in by hand.

 

sooo guru u took your restictor pill out???

did anyone else do this?

 

Yes I did take out restrictor. Only takes a few minutes and wanted to minimize the strain put on the MC as well as improve clutch feel. Not really a pill, kinda of a plastic disc with a hole in it and a spring.

 

ahhhh I see and where exactly in the clutch line is the disc at?

I'm torn between doing it or not read goods and bads about this mod...errr might make a poll on it haha

 

Damn! you just gave me a new item for my wishlist. An in home car lift! I have ben checking out prices for the last 1 hour on the internet and they seem pretty cheap, even chepaer than what I spent on my wheels. Will definitely pay for itself within an year or two I am sure!