I just tried attaching my rear rally armors and I discovered that I am three clips short! I am very disappointed that I have to call them to have three stupid clips sent to me. The rally armor flaps have just been back luck for me. It took them almost 3 weeks to get them to me and now I have to wait for clips. I triple checked for them too. Plus I chipped my paint when one of the Philips head stripped and I had to pry them off. Anyone have an advice to handle a tiny paint chip? It is in an unseen place but i don't want it to rust.

 

you could either fill it with some touch up paint ( search google for OEM paint color touch up paints ) or just make sure every few weeks or so put a few coats of wax on it. I'd fill it with a tooth pick let it dry, fill it, let it dry etc several times until it is just a little higher than the factory paint, get a pencil and some 3000 grit paper, cut a circle out to match the eraser side of the pencil and glue it on there with some rubber cement, sand down the paint until it's flush with the factory paint and then a little bit of buffing with a mild cut compound with a nice coat of wax and you would likely be the only one to ever know it was there.

 

if the paint chip is out of view someplace just clean it with some rubbing alch and put on a dab of clear fingernail polish

get ready for rock chips brotha, I have 18k on mine and I'm just finaly getting my RA flaps on (and i love em!) this paint is stupid weak

 

I just did this on an Aero kit'd X with 18k miles.

the plastic clips are all brittle, expect to lose 2/3 of them while removing and some will have to be punched out (punch out the center with a small screw driver after removing most the "head" material that wouldn't budge because the + turned into a O when you tried to unscrew it)

the aero kit makes the lower outside screw difficult to work with, i replaced all the rear screw and plastic receiver set with a 10mm nut welded to a bracket like the plastic supplied one and short bolt (i say 10mm because thats the ratcheting open wrench i used to put it on, made it super easy and removing the tire would have only helped with some of the plastic clips that ended up braking anyway)

plus the bolt/nut combo will be easier to remove (if needed) and adjusted later than the screw/plastic set up.

anyway, this review + the video :
http://revver.com/video/1354851/rall...performancetv/

made this super easy

 

I definitely have to agree with the aero kit making everything a little more difficult, but not too much. I broke a clip as well (one of the screw ones). Those are just a poor design.

 

thanks for all the tips on handling the chips! I used some touch up paint and realized that the place where the chip is located is on a "rubber" bumper. with the RA flaps you cant even see it. I went to Lowes and bought some extra clips for $.68 for a pack of 4. I bought 2 packs just in case. They are called speed nuts and made by a company called Hillman. Lowes had them, Home depot did not. How this helps those that might have broken them or had the company short them a couple.

 

after about 2000 miles with these on I have no chips, so I must say that they are doing their job.

 

Nice writeup! I actually used some of the pics to help me installed the OEM Mitsu Lancer Evolution mud flaps today. One thing I think that the OEM ones have the RA UR mud flaps (I'm talking for ease of rear flaps install) is that the hardware used has philips heads as well as like 10mm heads so they can be easily reached with a wrench. As long as you can squeeze your hand in between the tire and the splash guard to start the bolts, you're good. The rears were actually easier then the fronts IMO.

 

Thanks for the hex head tip for doing the rears! I used them in place of all the rear screws.

I got the screws at Home Depot. They're metal screws made by Crown Bolt.
small size: #14 x 1" ; part number 26211 (also last 5 digits of SKU)
large size: #14 x 1.5" ; part number 26311 (also last 5 digits of SKU)

The head sizes are close to 10mm, but my 10mm box end wrench slipped a few times, so I think they're not metric heads. I wound up using a crescent wrench. (Side comment: why do they make *metric* crescent wrenches?).

 

The fronts were actually easier for me.

I didn't take my rear wheels off either and used a bent screw driver.

 

nice write up

 

I used the supplied screw a phillips #2 bit and put a racheting wrench on it. Its a tight fit, but i'm glad the threads are coarse.

Also i found that the last clip pressed against the liner too much so i shaved the scrrew backing with a blade.

 

Great write up, thanks. Although I would much rather taking out the rear tires

 

Very nice! If I would have seen this I would have followed your guide! I eventually got mine on. After getting one on, it wasn't too bad, but great tutorial!