Prosport boost gauge power wiring
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: UAE: Abu Dhabi
Prosport boost gauge power wiring
Thanx to URBANRCR he encourged me to do my own installation
i started with the boost gauge " Prosport premium boost gauge" electric with peak warning...
i followed this excellent "how to"
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lean-hell.html
what i understood is
long wire with harness on both sides goes from gauge ( white harness) to the supplied boost sender (black harness) << done
short wire with white harness and 4 wires on the other side ( black/white/red/orange) goes from gauge to power... how to power i dont know!
hose and T goes from supplied boost sender to vac as in the above thread
short wire with white harness on both sides..i dont know!!!
is that correct??
I would go with a MBC personally.Your new to modifying which is perfectly fine but simplicity is key when your just learning.
take a look at all of your wiring again its usually just something simple you over looked.
with the boost gauge its a relatively easy install just take your time and print off pictures from the how-to you choose to use for reference.
take a look at all of your wiring again its usually just something simple you over looked.
with the boost gauge its a relatively easy install just take your time and print off pictures from the how-to you choose to use for reference.
i followed this excellent "how to"
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lean-hell.html
what i understood is
long wire with harness on both sides goes from gauge ( white harness) to the supplied boost sender (black harness) << done
short wire with white harness and 4 wires on the other side ( black/white/red/orange) goes from gauge to power... how to power i dont know!
hose and T goes from supplied boost sender to vac as in the above thread
short wire with white harness on both sides..i dont know!!!
is that correct??
Last edited by Yousef; Feb 16, 2009 at 09:05 AM.
don't waste your money having someone else do it. look at the bottom picture in post #57 of the installation link you referenced above. black to ground, red to constant 12v source (i used door locks) and either white or orange to cig lighter (depending on whether you want your gauge to be orange or white)
you can have both colors, one for day and one for night. You just have to follow the wiring diagram at the bottom of the instruction sheet pro sport provides. Day is a constant power source and night is headlights.
i have tried all combinations and it still did not work. I have an MR with keyless entry, so i dont know if the door lock is not a constant power source or what.It was very frustrating though
I have the prosport boost and egt done by my self, don't feel bad, I did a lot of research first even though I failed first times.
Do a lot of schemes in paper, mine was even harder because i was wiring two gauges. There is a bunch of posts (even mine) showing little pieces af what you should do. print everything lay down on bed and start sketching the wiring.
A couple of tips in general:
1. Do not say: I have to finish these today working with electricity. Think ahead. And take a lot of time for everything
2. Always +++++ Always disconnect your battery cables (only one is enough) I blew up like 3 fuses until finally hit my head with a wrench and disconnected the stupid cable.
3. Look for an “always dry” place to set your boost sensor under the hood.
Stay away also from the turbo if you don’t want to fry it.
The data cable that connects to the boost sensor should be installed facing down. The boost hose should face up.
Under heavy rain if you have the cable connecting from above or on the side the sensor might get wet inside and blow your sensor. The sensor is not water splash resistance. It happens to me and had to replace it ($25) plus shipping
prosport and almost all electric gauges have one "data" connection and one "power" connection. Both provided by pros port.
The data connection is a straight forward install.
The boost sensor goes under your hood. Data cable goes straight from the gauge to the sensor. Maybe you will need to extend your cable provided for prosport. I hope you know how to weld a couple of cables. Do you?
Data cable is the one that you see routing in the post trough the fender. Easy
Now the second part. Power cables
prosport gauges have diferent setups. Meaning you don't have to connect all the cables that you see. Just the one that you need. My preference is not for changing color rice like, but
The simplest setup, the "always one color" I choose red. Read the instructions provided by prosport to select the colors
for this (no changing colors) setup you need to give to your gauge:
-a 12 volt constant entrance,(i read about your MR, so you will need to find in the forums were to pick a constant source from).
-a 12 volt switched entrance (it give power when you start the car)(usually cigarette lighter)
-a ground cable (you can ground it to any clean looking bolt below your dash)(there is some pictures around)
If you choose to change the color of your gauges when lights come on, etc you need to connect another 3rd power cable that detects the switch of the lights on-off. But again you don't need to do it.
I found a nice place to connect and organize all the cables. Look for my posts. Work is not easy but really far from impossible if you have some basic skills.
Again. Look for more posts, and read all the opinions, there is a lot of posts about gauges
Do a lot of schemes in paper, mine was even harder because i was wiring two gauges. There is a bunch of posts (even mine) showing little pieces af what you should do. print everything lay down on bed and start sketching the wiring.
A couple of tips in general:
1. Do not say: I have to finish these today working with electricity. Think ahead. And take a lot of time for everything
2. Always +++++ Always disconnect your battery cables (only one is enough) I blew up like 3 fuses until finally hit my head with a wrench and disconnected the stupid cable.
3. Look for an “always dry” place to set your boost sensor under the hood.
Stay away also from the turbo if you don’t want to fry it.
The data cable that connects to the boost sensor should be installed facing down. The boost hose should face up.
Under heavy rain if you have the cable connecting from above or on the side the sensor might get wet inside and blow your sensor. The sensor is not water splash resistance. It happens to me and had to replace it ($25) plus shipping
prosport and almost all electric gauges have one "data" connection and one "power" connection. Both provided by pros port.
The data connection is a straight forward install.
The boost sensor goes under your hood. Data cable goes straight from the gauge to the sensor. Maybe you will need to extend your cable provided for prosport. I hope you know how to weld a couple of cables. Do you?
Data cable is the one that you see routing in the post trough the fender. Easy
Now the second part. Power cables
prosport gauges have diferent setups. Meaning you don't have to connect all the cables that you see. Just the one that you need. My preference is not for changing color rice like, but
The simplest setup, the "always one color" I choose red. Read the instructions provided by prosport to select the colors
for this (no changing colors) setup you need to give to your gauge:
-a 12 volt constant entrance,(i read about your MR, so you will need to find in the forums were to pick a constant source from).
-a 12 volt switched entrance (it give power when you start the car)(usually cigarette lighter)
-a ground cable (you can ground it to any clean looking bolt below your dash)(there is some pictures around)
If you choose to change the color of your gauges when lights come on, etc you need to connect another 3rd power cable that detects the switch of the lights on-off. But again you don't need to do it.
I found a nice place to connect and organize all the cables. Look for my posts. Work is not easy but really far from impossible if you have some basic skills.
Again. Look for more posts, and read all the opinions, there is a lot of posts about gauges
Last edited by alex3dworld; Aug 5, 2009 at 12:55 PM.
Trending Topics
well i have connected the red one which is supposed to be constant to the door locks, and orange to cigarette, and left the white alone. Damn thing won't turn on. The only time it did was when i connected white and orange together (or some other weird combo) and then it would not turn off once the ignition was off...
buddy!
You are missing the GROUND!!!!
i think is black, i don't remember
there is a huge bolt on the bottom of the fuse box to the right
ground it there, it's the fuse box ground
no ground = no BEEP!!!!!!!!!!!
Do not mix the cables without remove the battery cable first!
You are going to blow the fuses. Your lights won't turn on, your doors won’t close.
I told you in rule #2
Every time that you want to try a new connection goes back to the trunk and disconnect. Wire the new one and connect again.
If you are to lazy to walk to the back of your car 20 times, ask your girlfriend to do it for you, or train your dog, it is an easy task.
You don't have even to go to the drivers seat to check if it's working. They BEEP!!! really loud. If not. Disconnect again, something is wrong.
Ones you know a lot about wiring you can work with HOT lines
Please check that your lights are still working and your doors closing before keep working
Would you like to take some pictures of your wiring and post it here?
You are missing the GROUND!!!!
i think is black, i don't remember
there is a huge bolt on the bottom of the fuse box to the right
ground it there, it's the fuse box ground
no ground = no BEEP!!!!!!!!!!!
Do not mix the cables without remove the battery cable first!
You are going to blow the fuses. Your lights won't turn on, your doors won’t close.
I told you in rule #2
Every time that you want to try a new connection goes back to the trunk and disconnect. Wire the new one and connect again.
If you are to lazy to walk to the back of your car 20 times, ask your girlfriend to do it for you, or train your dog, it is an easy task.
You don't have even to go to the drivers seat to check if it's working. They BEEP!!! really loud. If not. Disconnect again, something is wrong.
Ones you know a lot about wiring you can work with HOT lines
Please check that your lights are still working and your doors closing before keep working
Would you like to take some pictures of your wiring and post it here?
Last edited by alex3dworld; Aug 7, 2009 at 10:07 AM.
yeah i bought two of these from pep boys but i am not sure if they are as good quality as these ones, i attached the lines exactly like the write up said i am going to try it again this weekend. I did ground it, and actually got it to work but it would not turn off when i turned the ignition off...uhm maybe i mixed the constant power source with ignition. To be honest with you i already have a boost gauge, an electronic one, that is already working. I have installed a BLITZ DTT with boost gauge. I just did not set it up to work as a turbo timer so i only use the boost monitor. The reason why i wanted to install the gauge is 1 i already purchased it 2 it looks way cooler than electronic (eye candy factor)3 If one is goos two is betta...
Is the turbo timer the culprit? I highly doubt so because everything else on the car works just as before like it is not even there. But if all fails i will remove it and rewire the gauge...
Is the turbo timer the culprit? I highly doubt so because everything else on the car works just as before like it is not even there. But if all fails i will remove it and rewire the gauge...
...uhm maybe I mixed the constant power source with ignition.
yes, the reason why the gauge is not turning off should be because you have connected the continuous 12v source from the car in the 12v ignition gauge entrance, so the gauge is not opening the circuit when the car turn off. Other scenarios are possible.
I don't now much about turbo timer’s electric install, but would be a good idea to disconnect it, I think one of the turbo timers task is to keep the turbo running for a while after the car is off, i won't feel comfortable installing something knowing that other equipment is consuming power from the same source.
i found this scheme, not exactly the same gauge, but 99%
yes, the reason why the gauge is not turning off should be because you have connected the continuous 12v source from the car in the 12v ignition gauge entrance, so the gauge is not opening the circuit when the car turn off. Other scenarios are possible.
I don't now much about turbo timer’s electric install, but would be a good idea to disconnect it, I think one of the turbo timers task is to keep the turbo running for a while after the car is off, i won't feel comfortable installing something knowing that other equipment is consuming power from the same source.
i found this scheme, not exactly the same gauge, but 99%
well i have spent 2 hours and tried all the possible combinations with no luck. And i gave up. I think it is the gauge. I should have just bought a DEFI. The only available constant power source i can think of is the door locks and i tap that with red and then i connect the orange to the ignition (as it says to do so) and the black to ground. So much time for nothing. The boost gauge on turbo timer is digital and it has a peak alarm setting. I do not use it for timer and the installation is so so so easy. All you have to do is plug the harness into steering ignition. And if you dont connect or ground the handbrake it wont work as a turbo timer and will shut off when the car is turned off. All in all i am ok with the setup assuming the turbo pressure is accurate..(hey its blitz and was working fine in my eight so i have no reason not to believe so).
It’s not unusual a malfunctioning gauge but you can consider yourself unlucky to receive one.
These are not $20 gauges. In fact you told me before that they turn on, so, it's working.
It’s just a wiring problem. With the right tools you can even simulate from an exterior source (not your car) the wiring you are trying to do.
as I told you ones, I even had water inside the sensor a month ago, I had to replace the sensor but the gauge still is working perfectly, even after driving for miles under a tropical storm, receiving crazy electrical signals from the wet sensor.
I opened the sensor, dry the circuit, leave it a couple of days in a warm place and guess what??, after two days, I try it and it was working perfectly, that mother ***... doesn’t' die!!!
I had order another one at that time, to make it short, it give you an idea that prosport gauges are not bad at all.
Hey, don't worry, put them in a box, take your time, keep reading the forums looking for solutions.
the funny part of modding your car is not to have things in your car, but to learn how it work and how to do it right?
These are not $20 gauges. In fact you told me before that they turn on, so, it's working.
It’s just a wiring problem. With the right tools you can even simulate from an exterior source (not your car) the wiring you are trying to do.
as I told you ones, I even had water inside the sensor a month ago, I had to replace the sensor but the gauge still is working perfectly, even after driving for miles under a tropical storm, receiving crazy electrical signals from the wet sensor.
I opened the sensor, dry the circuit, leave it a couple of days in a warm place and guess what??, after two days, I try it and it was working perfectly, that mother ***... doesn’t' die!!!
I had order another one at that time, to make it short, it give you an idea that prosport gauges are not bad at all.
Hey, don't worry, put them in a box, take your time, keep reading the forums looking for solutions.
the funny part of modding your car is not to have things in your car, but to learn how it work and how to do it right?
Last edited by alex3dworld; Aug 11, 2009 at 07:18 AM.




