Pads and Rotors How-to

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Sep 17, 2011 | 12:36 PM

#31

journeymansteve

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From: St Louis

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErnGotti

I checked for that but that wasn't my case. I took the car for an alignment this morning and the guy had a hell of a time lining up the rear end. after about 40 minutes he finally got it stable and straight. However, when we went for the test drive the right rear made an insane wobbling/scraping sound. Threw it back on the lift to take the wheel off to check the brakes but the wheel studs were spinning in place so the four lug nuts weren't coming off....the wheel lock came free though thankfully. No idea what happened. I think one stud spun, then the others slowly came loose in the few miles I put on the car. Gotta drill out the nits from the front now

everyone else I hope you learn from this. Even reinstalling the wheels with a torque stick, this occurred. DO NOT use an impact gun...at least this happened to my own car and not a customers

NEVER EVER let anyone put your wheels on except yourself -- or a racing shop. A torque wrench is required on the Evo or you'll warp your rotors, or worse as you point out. FWIW, those studs are easy as hell to remove and replace. $3 ea at OReilly. Beat them out with a hammer (b i g g e r is better) and buy a lug that's open to pull the stud through. You shouldn't have any problems getting out broken ones using the same technique. I had that happen after an HPDE and someone named Steve over torqued his lugnutz. Lesson learned, cheaply for me as I DIY.

Oct 23, 2011 | 10:44 AM

#32

nick86green

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Joined: Aug 2011

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From: chicago

How do you get rhe caliper bolts off man my are like frozen in thet won't come out its pissibg me off lol

Oct 23, 2011 | 08:24 PM

#33

journeymansteve

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From: St Louis

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick86green

How do you get rhe caliper bolts off man my are like frozen in thet won't come out its pissibg me off lol

1/2" breaker bar, have to have the right size of socket, a shorty, not deep, to fit there.

If really nasty, and you do have a good 6pt socket that has the whole bolt covered, just get a 2' steel pipe, "cheater", to help you get more torque. I'd say it's just some rust from salt on the road. Make sure too you're not trying to tighten instead of loosen. Coming from the opposite side it's not uncommon to get reversed.

edit: You might need to raise your vehicle a bit higher. I had not enough room the first time or two and needed to elevate the whole thing to get a better grab on the 1/2" breaker bar.

Oct 27, 2011 | 10:29 AM

#34

nick86green

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Joined: Aug 2011

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From: chicago

Thanks man I got it it was a pain but its done lol now the rears this weekend hahaha

Oct 28, 2011 | 08:24 AM

#35

journeymansteve

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From: St Louis

Quote:

Originally Posted by nick86green

Thanks man I got it it was a pain but its done lol now the rears this weekend hahaha

The caliper mounting bolt in the back brakes don't have as bad of a clearance problem, I think it's a 17mm socket, stick with the short sockets, not deep welled.

With a little practice, I've gotten all four rotors and pads changed in a little over an hour end-to-end, including jack and tire time. (- hand tools only, outdoors, on gravel driveway)

Oct 28, 2011 | 08:44 AM

#36

bluepeartype-s

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Joined: May 2004

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From: Arizona...Hot!

Quote:

Originally Posted by journeymansteve

Had this crap happen to me..ughh what a nightmare!!! broke the stud and had to drill the lugnut off...almost ruined my rims...

Nice write up on changing rotors/pads out.

-B

Oct 29, 2011 | 07:03 AM

#37

jdogg9981

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From: Philadelphia

Thanks for the write up! I thought I would have to remove the entire caliper. Why anyone would PAY someone to change their pads is beyond me.

Nov 30, 2011 | 09:52 AM

#38

CodyEvo

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Joined: Nov 2010

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nice write up!

Nov 30, 2011 | 12:29 PM

#39

journeymansteve

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Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 854

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From: St Louis

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdogg9981

Thanks for the write up! I thought I would have to remove the entire caliper. Why anyone would PAY someone to change their pads is beyond me.

Isn't that the truth? Before family came over Thanksgiving day, I had plenty of time in the morning -- after I'd stuff turkey and started it cooking -- to run outside and swap the track pads out and put on my DD brakes and rims. Took me less than an hour total time.

But to do it "right" and keep it trackable, do put at least an annual brake fluid flush into your plans.

Nov 30, 2011 | 12:31 PM

#40

ranson106202

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From: CANADA

nice write-up,might helpful for me

Dec 5, 2011 | 05:50 PM

#41

lil ayzian

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Joined: Nov 2010

Posts: 49

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From: west covina, ca

thanks for the info!

Dec 18, 2011 | 05:15 PM

#42

troyracin54

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From: florida

good write up!!

Dec 29, 2011 | 10:25 AM

#43

Spazo

Evolving Member

Joined: Aug 2009

Posts: 109

Likes: 1

From: Maryland

Great write up! I've done breaks on other vehicles (mostly SUVs) but this will be helpful when I tackle my Evo!

Question - how do you know WHEN to replace your pads? Is there a visual inspection rod or something that I can see and determine how much time I have left on the brakes? They just started squeaking the other day..

Many thanks!

Dec 29, 2011 | 10:48 AM

#44

journeymansteve

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Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 854

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From: St Louis

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spazo

They'll squeak long before needing replacing, the dust on the adhesive rich pad material gets between the pad material and the large area of the rotors, causing a vibration and "squeal" -- wash them thoroughly and often. Visually, it's hard to see and to be sure, you have to remove the rim to see the inside pad at all. It's rare to get less than 25,000 miles out of these, and be sure to avoid Mitsu for the replacements. Just know that you will NOT have to remove the caliper unless you absolutely need to remove the rotors -- only do that if they shudder.

Replacement at anything less than 1/8" or just over that is good time for the new ones. I'm guessing no track time as of yet?

Dec 29, 2011 | 11:58 AM

#45

Spazo

Evolving Member

Joined: Aug 2009

Posts: 109

Likes: 1

From: Maryland

Thanks Steve! Yes no track time yet (and only 14k miles) and I keep the car (and rims/rotors) pretty clean.. typically washing everything every 2 weeks or so in the summer and maybe once a month during the winters. I've got some great anti-carbon stuff I use at work to clean the rims/rotors with so they're kept pretty nice.

I just wasn't sure if there was an easy inspection pin or something that could be measured to tell wear.

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