Pads and Rotors How-to
Feb 4, 2010, 11:49 AM
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Pads and Rotors How-to
This is a basic how to on replacing your pads and rotors on the Evo X.
Jack the car up, and use jack stands to stabilize the car.
Remove the wheel from the car.
On the backside of the rotor there will be two 3/4 inch bolts that will need to be removed.
After the bolts are removed, look at the caliper. There will be two pins that need to be pushed out along with a pressure plate that holds the calipers in.
Once one of the pins are removed, the pressure plate can be removed easily and then the second pin.
pull the caliper off of the rotor by gently rocking back and forth. The caliper will now come free from the rotor.
use a wire hanger or piece or wire or whatever suits you. Tie or hang the caliper up away from the rotor so no stress or stretching is done to the brake lines.
The factory rotor will be vry difficult to just pull off. It has two threaded holes that can accept what i believe is a 3mm bolt (not exactly sure of size). Once you thread a bolt into this hole, It will pop the rotors loose. Much easier than the traditional "hammer method".
Once rotor is loose, pull off of hub. Put new rotor on per manufacturer direction.
The pads will just fall out of the caliper. If not then a small screwdriver will pry them right out. You will need to compress the piston in the caliper. I would recommend removing the master cylinder cover before compressing your pistons, but this is not necessary. This can be done by using a piston spreader or by using a c-clamp. Turn the old pad around toward the piston and use the clamp tto compress the piston. Repeat on opposite side of caliper.
Now just follow the steps in reverse to put everything back together. DO NOT FORGET the pins and pressure plate in the caliper!!!
The fronts and rears are pretty much the same.
Jack the car up, and use jack stands to stabilize the car.
Remove the wheel from the car.
On the backside of the rotor there will be two 3/4 inch bolts that will need to be removed.
After the bolts are removed, look at the caliper. There will be two pins that need to be pushed out along with a pressure plate that holds the calipers in.
Once one of the pins are removed, the pressure plate can be removed easily and then the second pin.
pull the caliper off of the rotor by gently rocking back and forth. The caliper will now come free from the rotor.
use a wire hanger or piece or wire or whatever suits you. Tie or hang the caliper up away from the rotor so no stress or stretching is done to the brake lines.
The factory rotor will be vry difficult to just pull off. It has two threaded holes that can accept what i believe is a 3mm bolt (not exactly sure of size). Once you thread a bolt into this hole, It will pop the rotors loose. Much easier than the traditional "hammer method".
Once rotor is loose, pull off of hub. Put new rotor on per manufacturer direction.
The pads will just fall out of the caliper. If not then a small screwdriver will pry them right out. You will need to compress the piston in the caliper. I would recommend removing the master cylinder cover before compressing your pistons, but this is not necessary. This can be done by using a piston spreader or by using a c-clamp. Turn the old pad around toward the piston and use the clamp tto compress the piston. Repeat on opposite side of caliper.
Now just follow the steps in reverse to put everything back together. DO NOT FORGET the pins and pressure plate in the caliper!!!
The fronts and rears are pretty much the same.
Feb 5, 2010, 07:47 PM
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Just about $1100 for all. I just finished bedding in the pads and rotors. Its really cold and snowy here in Chicago so I'm sure it will be a little while till i can do a proper comparison to stock. So far they feel very grippy and haven't noticed ANY fading on the expressway yet. But will tell more when i get to beat on them.
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Feb 26, 2010, 02:36 PM
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If you want to improve the "feel" of your brakes, switchout the rubber lines for stainless steel braided lines - makes a huge difference!!! The main reason for the improvement is that the stainless steel braided lines will not expand the way rubber ones do when your brake fluid gets super hot. When people complain of "spongy" feeling brakes, this is often one of the culprits. Also, for track use, stainless steel braided lines are a big safety bonus because SS lines are not easily severed the way rubber ones can be by any potentially hazardous track debris.
Jul 27, 2010, 07:02 PM
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1. What did you guys use to break the front caliper bolts loose?
2. I tried a breaker bar, but I dont have much leverage and I'm not sure which way to turn (push towards the front of car or pull towards the back of car)?
3. I have an air ratchet but it only goes up to 50lbs, and arent those bolts 100 lbs?
2. I tried a breaker bar, but I dont have much leverage and I'm not sure which way to turn (push towards the front of car or pull towards the back of car)?
3. I have an air ratchet but it only goes up to 50lbs, and arent those bolts 100 lbs?
Jul 27, 2010, 07:43 PM
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1. What did you guys use to break the front caliper bolts loose?
2. I tried a breaker bar, but I dont have much leverage and I'm not sure which way to turn (push towards the front of car or pull towards the back of car)?
3. I have an air ratchet but it only goes up to 50lbs, and arent those bolts 100 lbs?
2. I tried a breaker bar, but I dont have much leverage and I'm not sure which way to turn (push towards the front of car or pull towards the back of car)?
3. I have an air ratchet but it only goes up to 50lbs, and arent those bolts 100 lbs?
