Prosport boost gauge gripes.
Prosport boost gauge gripes.
I installed my Perrin dual gauge pod and Prosport boost gauge last night. I also have an AFR gauge but I'm going to hold off on that until I need it (once i get a tune).
So my gripes
The harness from boost sensor to gauge is at least 18in too short.
The audible warning at fire up in the gauge is obscenely loud, although I think it's a setting I can change.
And my number one gripe. The button to check peak boost passes through the face of the gauge and rattles incessantly. It can be heard over the radio on any setting bellow 30. I think a dab of black silicon will handle this.
Also, and this could be important for someone, the fuse box diagram on both the door and in the manual are wrong for the 2011 model. What you think is the cigarette lighter isn't. I don't know what fuse it is but it ain't that one, because it is not 12V switched to IGN.
So my gripes
The harness from boost sensor to gauge is at least 18in too short.
The audible warning at fire up in the gauge is obscenely loud, although I think it's a setting I can change.
And my number one gripe. The button to check peak boost passes through the face of the gauge and rattles incessantly. It can be heard over the radio on any setting bellow 30. I think a dab of black silicon will handle this.
Also, and this could be important for someone, the fuse box diagram on both the door and in the manual are wrong for the 2011 model. What you think is the cigarette lighter isn't. I don't know what fuse it is but it ain't that one, because it is not 12V switched to IGN.
The beeps .. just hold the set button down when u turn ign on beeps will stop. I had same rattle from them
I cut a small piece of the protectuve clear laminate and tucked it under set button and rattle was gone. Anoying yes but fixed,rigged and i like my prosports
I cut a small piece of the protectuve clear laminate and tucked it under set button and rattle was gone. Anoying yes but fixed,rigged and i like my prosports
The beeps .. just hold the set button down when u turn ign on beeps will stop. I had same rattle from them
I cut a small piece of the protectuve clear laminate and tucked it under set button and rattle was gone. Anoying yes but fixed,rigged and i like my prosports
I cut a small piece of the protectuve clear laminate and tucked it under set button and rattle was gone. Anoying yes but fixed,rigged and i like my prosports

Regarding the rattle how about a small rubber o-ring to keep it steady?
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Not really...my wife's Prosport boost gauge in her WRX is more accurate than the Defi boost gauge I had in my IX (at nearly a tenth the price too). The wiring instructions included were wrong, but correcting that was a simple trial/error.
I have an older pro-sport that is mechanical. It matches the factory cluster pretty nicely (and has a matching amber for the CT9A guys).
It is surprisingly accurate despite sticking a little bit in vacuum sometimes (this could be from it being beat up, I'm not sure of its condition) but it is surprisingly accurate. My only real gripe with it is that it won't go amber if you are feeding it the illumination signal when it powers on. I'm not sure why, but it gets annoying that if you want it amber all the time (CT9A) or move the headlight switch too slowly it will stick on white.
That said, I couldn't be happier.
It is surprisingly accurate despite sticking a little bit in vacuum sometimes (this could be from it being beat up, I'm not sure of its condition) but it is surprisingly accurate. My only real gripe with it is that it won't go amber if you are feeding it the illumination signal when it powers on. I'm not sure why, but it gets annoying that if you want it amber all the time (CT9A) or move the headlight switch too slowly it will stick on white.
That said, I couldn't be happier.
Do you know anything about the k20a? A motor designed to run n/a that can take 450whp stock block daily driven for multiple years with no isses? The motor is a beast. Yes, it is fwd, but it is a great car for a dd.
Go test the electric boost gauge on a dyno.
Everyone I know has had the sensor go bad in the oil pressure gauge. Half the time their egt gauges came in with a senor that did not work properly.
She must have gotten lucky. Do you have dyno evidence to prove this or is this just something you "know"?
The mechanical ones are fine.
Is this an opinion or do you have some facts that we can look at? Iv been using prosports in my truck for years with no issues. I also have used Defi's, Greddy and HKS gauges and I cant say they have performed any different or any better. Simply put they are not the best gauges money can buy but they are great quality for the price point.
Regarding the rattle how about a small rubber o-ring to keep it steady?

Regarding the rattle how about a small rubber o-ring to keep it steady?
Everyone I know has had the sensor go bad in the oil pressure gauge. Half the time their egt gauges came in with a senor that did not work properly.
I have an older pro-sport that is mechanical. It matches the factory cluster pretty nicely (and has a matching amber for the CT9A guys).
It is surprisingly accurate despite sticking a little bit in vacuum sometimes (this could be from it being beat up, I'm not sure of its condition) but it is surprisingly accurate. My only real gripe with it is that it won't go amber if you are feeding it the illumination signal when it powers on. I'm not sure why, but it gets annoying that if you want it amber all the time (CT9A) or move the headlight switch too slowly it will stick on white.
That said, I couldn't be happier.
It is surprisingly accurate despite sticking a little bit in vacuum sometimes (this could be from it being beat up, I'm not sure of its condition) but it is surprisingly accurate. My only real gripe with it is that it won't go amber if you are feeding it the illumination signal when it powers on. I'm not sure why, but it gets annoying that if you want it amber all the time (CT9A) or move the headlight switch too slowly it will stick on white.
That said, I couldn't be happier.
LOL, I almost passed out after reading this, prosport is not garbage, i have a electronic boost gauge on my evo 9 and it works perfect on the dyno, street, and track. Never sticks or causes me any kind of trouble. If you run a good vaccum line your good to go. Only gauges that are crap are Glowshift gauges. As far as the RSX, they are nice cars but nothing i would look at twice on the road
I have the electronic boost gauge on the supra. We had it at the dyno. Its nearly spot on with my MAP on my EMS. I also have the oil pressure gauge in my landy. Its been in there for years and mind you my truck gets submurged in water crossings
I cannot comment on EGT's. I will tell you that any electrical gauge will be sensitive toward the condition of the electrical system and proper grounding on any vehicle. I have some guys swearing by mechanical gauges claiming any electrical gauge they have used were complete junk. They drive domestics.
I cannot comment on EGT's. I will tell you that any electrical gauge will be sensitive toward the condition of the electrical system and proper grounding on any vehicle. I have some guys swearing by mechanical gauges claiming any electrical gauge they have used were complete junk. They drive domestics.
I use peak warning boost, oil pressure, egt and none of the buttons rattle at all. egt and oil are spot on but im tuned to 24 psi and my gauge hits 30 with no problem every time so im taking it that gauge is not at all accurate.
Hmm there seems to be a lot of mixed reviews of the Prosport Boost Gauges vs. AEM... I just ordered an AEM digital boost gauge for my Evo X (30-4406) but was thinking of cancelling it because I do admit the Prosport one looks good how it is red/white and matches the X interior very well... but a lot of google reviews/threads seem to indicate poor accuracy


