I have a 2009 ralliart with 66k. last year mid winter we had a random warm day around 60degrees, i got the light, since that day i haven't gotten the light till yesterday when we had another random day. i took car to mitsu to have code scanned since it wouldn't come up in evoscan for some reason. turns out its c161e- pump.... so i guess ralliarts have same corrosion problem

 

Yeah it's pretty much the same pump minus the AYC line.

 

I seen the service steps for the "awc pump" error that we all have, and it mentioned that the pumps work much harder when temperature is under around -10 Celsius or sobecause oil gets thicker.

 

Must be an Ohio thing... I just had mine fail in January too. Also had the dreaded "Triangle Check - stretched timing chain" message pop up a week ago. Had the dealer pull the codes yesterday. P0012, P0134, C161E, C161F.

I'm going to rebuild the pump myself with the ~$200 kit. I saw that there is a kit with a tester included for $400; is it required for the bleeding process?

Also, I found a timing chain replacement how-to the other day but now I cannot find it; can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

I'm curently in the middle of rebuilding a pump for someone right now, the tester is not needed for bleeding the pump. The dealer should do this job as I hear its a PITA, you need the MUT III tool that is the kicker. (Or get the program from Tephra)

It is also proving to be a PITA to just dissasemble the pump, its so corroded that nothing comes apart easy. Lots of cutting and hitting and grinding is involved.

 

AFAIK, you cannot purchase the rebuild kit and rebuild your stock pump if it has already failed. Once that pump burns out, it is gone for good I think. Not 100% sure, maybe contact the vendor, but I was under the assumption that you needed a brand new OEM pump and then apply the rebuild kit to that part. Just double check to see if the stocker is toast before you rebuild it for nothing, we wouldn't want you spending time, effort, and money on something that won't help. Best of luck! And post up what you find out!

 

Is there a vender that manufactures a shield or skid plate looking part that "protects" the pump? I thought I saw one somewhere at some point...

 

No this is not true, the rebuild kit is for REBUILDING a used pump. Watch the video on 'How to rebuild the AYC pump'. I would not tear into a brand new $2000 pump. if you get a new pump seal that thing up with silicone RTV or somthing and install a pump guard

IF the electric motor is burnt out then you need to buy a new pump. IF its the pump that has failed then that is what the rebuild kit is for.

 

From my understanding and research, 99% of failed pumps have to do with the electric motor burning out because it cannot cycle the fluid in certain cold temps or their is so much corrosion inside the pump that it cannot build pressure and the c161e fail code usually has to do with the pump motor which usually means that its to late for a rebuild... their is no "rebuild" for the electric pump motor, the rebuild kits are for just the pump itself as a preventative measure or you happen to catch the problem before the pump burns out... If only Mitsubishi sold the electric pump motor separately it would be SO much easier and cheaper to replace!

 

My mistake, thanks for clearing that up guys!

 

How do we know if the problem is the electric motor or the pump itself ?

 

Good question - I just phoned my dealership and asked them this specific question.

I got "the ACD pump failed, it's all one unit". Basically not helpful at all, haha.

 

You can test the electric motor just by putting some power too it and see if it works, this is no guarantee that it’s in perfect condition as Scox1026 said most pumps fail because of the thickened fluid at colder temps burning out the motor.

I tested the pump I'm currently working on and it seems fine, I applied a little load to the motor when running and it seemed to be able to overcome it.

On a side note, my rebuild of a pump has ground to a halt, trying to split the 2 half’s seems impossible. I was able to get about a 1/8" gap but the remaining bolts are so corroded that they won’t let go (and I've tried everything heating, hitting, pulling with a crank pulley puller...) I can see the inside of the pump a bit and its completely filled with broken bits of corroded metal and what looks like bluish rock salt (probably some type of corrosion) basically I think the pump is shot and the motor and solenoids might be salvageable.

 

motors can be rebuilt... unfortunately evo X motors are much harder to rebuild than earlier ones...

as for pump disassembly..

you need to grind away the pump housing, around the bolts.. check out the second vid..

then the two halves will go apart easily...

Rebuild kit is for pump rebuild,.. not the motor rebuild unfortunately.. (but I am working on motor replacement and solenoid overhaul..

But, I have yet to see a pump that couldn't be rebuilt...

 

I did this yesterday...
You can directly put 12V on the motor connector without taking the pump off the car.
If there is no existent pressure in the pump then you can hear motor spin, but if there is pressure already, then motor will spin slowly or not at all and will not make much sound, and is probably dangerous to force pressure in the pump like that.