krypt952

iTrader: (3)

Here is how I removed the evo X engine. I got it out in about 3 hrs. This is my first how to so feel free to add anything I might have missed. I also have a lift in my garage If I didn't I would have had to remove subframe then transfer case then transmission out the bottom and the engine out the top with a cherry picker. Take everything I say with a grain of salt.

1. Drain engine oil
2. Drain Coolant via petcock on front passenger side raidiator (remove the radiator cap to drain faster)
3. Remove Battery Terminals 10mm
4. Remove Air Intake and Inter cooler Piping
5. Remove Driver side Vacuum Lines and Label Where they go
6. Remove upper radiator hose completely. (Driverside)
7. Remove Lower Radiator hose off engine and tuck in radiator fan shroud (Driverside)
8. Unplug the top ECU wire pigtail (Driverside)
9. Unplug Fuse Box Pigtail (Driverside)
10. Unplug final pigtail on that same line (it connects down by the riverside headlight) (Driverside)
11. Remove Starter wires and remove the wire connector pyramid thing (Driverside)
12. Remove the two body ground wires 10mm (Driverside)
13. Zip tie all removed wires to top of the engine
14. Remove Heater Hoses from engine but leave connected to body (Driverside)
15. Remove Fuel Line and Fuel return lines (I just used a Flathead to unscrew the hose clamp and pulled)
16. Remove Power Steering lines pressure and return lines (Passenger side)
17. Remove bolt that hold the AC compressor high line secure. (Passenger side)
18. Remove 2 oil cooler lines on top of oil pump (Passenger side)
19. Remove Pigtail connection to A/C compressor (Passenger side)
20. Go inside the cab and mark the steering wheel shaft (by the break pedal) so when you put it back in it lines up and use locking pliers to hold the clamp on the shaft open

Lift Vehicle

21. Remove Wheels
22. Remove lower engine plastic cover 10mm bolts and clips
23. Drain Transmission and replace bolt
24. Remove brake line on the back of the caliper 14mm and bracket 12mm on the back of the strut
25. Remove Speed/ABS sensor on wheel 10mm
26. Remove 2 lower strut bolts 17mm
27. Remove serpentine belt
28. Remove 2 10mm bolts that hold the oil cooler lines together and remove out lines out of the way threw the bottom
29. Remove 3 bolts holding A/C compressor 10mm
30. Remove 3 bolts to lower A/C compressor bracket 10mm
31. Zip tie A/C compressor to the front framework out of the way.
32. Remove Mid pipe and O2 sensors on mid pipe / down pipe 14mm for echuast bolts and 7/8 for O2 sensors
33. Remove Protective Cover in center of the rear sub frame 2 bolts are 12mm and the other 2 are 14mm
34. Remove 4 bolts on the drive shaft 12mm bolts with 14mm nuts and remove driveshaft.
35. Remove 3 bolts on each triangle cover on the back sub frame 12mm and there are two
36. Remove 2 rear bolts on subframe holding it to body 19mm
37. Remove 2 front bolts on sub frame holding it to the body (you have to use the hole in the A arm to access it) 19mm
38. Remove two front bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the front frame support 17mm (no need to remove the rear 17mm)
39. Remove the transfer case fluid supply line and bracket
40. Remove Plastic wheel wheel cover from driver side

Lower Vehicle

41. Support Engine and transmission with jacks I used two. Lift them a little to add a little weight on them
42. Remove 3 motor mount bracket nuts/bolts 17mm
43. Remove 3 Transmission bracket nuts 17mm
44. Lower Transmission / engine jacks slowly to ensure everything is free
45. Lift the body
46. Roll out the engine/transfer case/transmission/sub frame as one unit

ghozt

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up. Wish I had a lift. Did you take any step pics? Or are there any "hey watch out for this difficult thing"? I've heard the input shafts to transfer case are tricky and to watch the transmission against the drivers frame. Stuff like that. You sound pretty experienced in pulling engines.

JDM EVOX

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up.

krypt952

iTrader: (3)

Well the drivers side transfer case shaft has to be removed in order to remove the transfer case. I know lots of people use a slide hammer I just used a harmonic ballancer puller the end of the shaft has a threaded hole in it for a bolt or slide hammer. Having a lift made it easy I probably could have got it out in under 2 hrs if I had done it before. Putting it back in is always a harder job, im probably going to put in the engine trans transfer as one piece and then the sub frame after. The subframe makes it too bulky and odd shaped to go in smoothly. In all honesty If I had to do this project without a lift I would have paid to have it done.

Phenix8913

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up. I'm hoping to do this soon.

Mike-Who

iTrader: (2)

Nice write up, I'm sure that I will use this in the near future.

BrooklynsFinest

I'm planning on pulling the engine in the near future. It's nice to have such an in depth step by step guide to help me out since ill probably be doing it myself

crackermacker22

great write up, thank you!