How to : Bleed ayc/acd with no mut3!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 2
From: Canada
How to : Bleed ayc/acd with no mut3!
Hey guys figured I'd write this post because I couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere on the forums how to do this after changing my clutch, and it seems like an frequently asked question. Being 450miles from the nearest Mitsu dealer I actually had to figure out my own procedure, because the stealership said there is no other way besides MUT3. This is my procedure no expensive MUT3 software needed. Hope this saves you the frustration I went through.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: NJ
I did this method after completely draining the transfer case. 15k miles later no issues so far.
I only moved one of the front wheels when I did this, and could definitely tell when the pump was pressurizing the front clutch pac. Thanks for the write up!
I only moved one of the front wheels when I did this, and could definitely tell when the pump was pressurizing the front clutch pac. Thanks for the write up!
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: sd
Hey guys figured I'd write this post because I couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere on the forums how to do this after changing my clutch, and it seems like an frequently asked question. Being 450miles from the nearest Mitsu dealer I actually had to figure out my own procedure, because the stealership said there is no other way besides MUT3. This is my procedure no expensive MUT3 software needed. Hope this saves you the frustration I went through.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
pictures would be awesome when it comes to diy. Please post them
Trending Topics
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: ga
Hey guys figured I'd write this post because I couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere on the forums how to do this after changing my clutch, and it seems like an frequently asked question. Being 450miles from the nearest Mitsu dealer I actually had to figure out my own procedure, because the stealership said there is no other way besides MUT3. This is my procedure no expensive MUT3 software needed. Hope this saves you the frustration I went through.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
Will this fix my 3 Faulty ACD lights coming on. Randomly after starting it up and driving it. I get 3 lights all solid, but the car still feels fine. My question is once i bleed it and refill the fluid, would this fix my light situation? It makes me nervous when i see faulty lights