How to : Bleed ayc/acd with no mut3!
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
From: Quesnel
Hey guys figured I'd write this post because I couldn't find a definitive answer anywhere on the forums how to do this after changing my clutch, and it seems like an frequently asked question. Being 450miles from the nearest Mitsu dealer I actually had to figure out my own procedure, because the stealership said there is no other way besides MUT3. This is my procedure no expensive MUT3 software needed. Hope this saves you the frustration I went through.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
What you will need:
2L Diamond ATF lll fluid ONLY THIS FLUID!
1 floor jack.
2 jack stands.
10mm wrench.
Flashlight.
Flexible hose.
1 oil drain pan.
1 or 2 friends.
Before we start. There is lots of confusion when it comes to the AYC case and the transfer case they are NOT the same, the AYC is sealed inside the transfer case and uses a different type of fluid. AYC uses ATF fluid and transfer case uses 75w-90 gear oil, you bleed the AYC and only fill the transfer case.
PROCEDURE TIME:
You will need all 4 tires off the ground for this. Start by jacking up one side of the front of the car at a time and getting your two jack stands under. Then when you have the front off the ground jack the rear of the car up either on the center of the diff or on the black crossmember directly behind the diff. I chose the diff because the car isn't heavy and isn't in the air long, plus it's a jacking point in the manual. Now that the car is off the ground you will want to locate the 3 bleeder screws.
There is one on the AYC clutch pack on the bottom of the transfer case, and 2 on the middle of the rear diff facing the rear bumper (right behind the black crossmember.)
Take off the cover on the inside right side of your trunk liner this is your AYC system fluid. Have a friend make sure that this NEVER goes below the MIN mark, keep filling it or you'll suck tons of air and he won't be your friend anymore.
Now comes the fun part.
Start your car and leave it in neutral. Grab your 10mm wrench and flexible hose + drain pan, and crawl under the rear diff. Put the hose on the port and open it a few turns. Have a friend grab one of your rear tires and move it in a violent back and forth motion while you crack a bleeder port (doesn't matter which one) the motion will activate the pump behind your right hand rear fender wall, you might hear it you might not, a steady stream should be coming out now. Once all the bubbles stop close it, and repeat for the second bleeder port. I moved all 4 tires for the rear diff.
Now that the AYC pump is bled. You can move to the lowest point which is the AYC pack on the transfer case. Repeat the procedure you used for the rear diff.
Your now done, take the car off the jacks, top off the fluid, and enjoy.
I had a whining pump and service 4x4, AYC lights on and this got rid of that. 400 miles later and no issues.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Duble
There's another way: hardwire it in the trunk or standard place and bleed it without any special tools, one man job! The reason "spinning the wheel" did not work for me- car will turn on the pump and as soon as it senses no pressure (air in the system) it will turn the pump off and throw an error in the dash. After that it will not turn on the pump anymore. You need to bleed it with the car off and be able to cycle through the solenoids... Hence the hardwire method. There's no option to bleed it in the EvoScan for X (only up to X). As always- I'm not responsible for anything you will break or short-circuit during this (if not done properly). You should be fine if you follow the diagrams and rules though. I've done it myself.
Things you will need:
1. ATF fluid (follow the one in the manual)
2. Some wire (black and red for easier connections, length depends on the pump location)
3. 4 push buttons (for easier cycle-through of solenoids and power)
4. 50cm clear hose (smallest I could find in the store- just to fit on the bleeding nipple, same as the brake bleeding)
5. a jar for ATF fluid which will be pushed from AYC/ACD
6. Connectors for wire connections to solenoids/push buttons/battery - I just used whatever was laying around, use your own imagination.
Follow same rules for wiring it as you would for any electronics- insulate all connectors, crimps, wires etc. etc.
Price? Maybe 5EUR, I had all parts laying around so it did not cost me anything
Also take a look at the diagram for correct ACD solenoid placement as in the net there is some incorrect information.
Making this from a bunch of wires and a couple of buttons will save you ~160$ for a tool sold on eBay.
Schematic diagrams at:
https://geriaune.pro/shop/
Let's start:
1. Jack up the car so you can access AYC and ACD bleeding ports. You can leave the car on the wheels if desired- no need to lift it up for the bleeding if you can access bleeding ports that way.
2. Fill up reservoir with ATF fluid to the top
3. Attach hose to LEFT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
A Note: When you push "power" button- pump and Rear diff pressure control solenoid opens (this solenoid should be open to bleed both Left and Right parts of AYC)
5. Push "AYC Rear L" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
6. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 5 if required
7. Push "AYC Rear R" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
8. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 7 if required
9. Close Left bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
10. Attach hose to RIGHT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
11. Repeat steps 5 to 8
12. Close right bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
13. You're done with the AYC and rear diff, you can remove all cables going to the white solenoid connector
14. Move to the front of the car, add a hose to ACD bleeding port on the transfer case, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
15. Push "ACD FRONT" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
16. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 15 if required
17. Close the bleeding port, remove hose, jar, cables etc.
18. Leave reservoir fluid level at "MAX", check level after a while- it may rise up so be sure to take it out if it does.
19. Connect the pump up as it should, fire up the car, check lights- there was no error for me anymore
20. Profit.
Drive it around, check ATF level in the reservoir- usually it drops a bit when you drive it and comes back after it sits for a bit. It should not fluctuate a lot, maybe within MIN and MAX marks.
It looks like a lot but it actually took me ~30min. to do it all.
Things you will need:
1. ATF fluid (follow the one in the manual)
2. Some wire (black and red for easier connections, length depends on the pump location)
3. 4 push buttons (for easier cycle-through of solenoids and power)
4. 50cm clear hose (smallest I could find in the store- just to fit on the bleeding nipple, same as the brake bleeding)
5. a jar for ATF fluid which will be pushed from AYC/ACD
6. Connectors for wire connections to solenoids/push buttons/battery - I just used whatever was laying around, use your own imagination.
Follow same rules for wiring it as you would for any electronics- insulate all connectors, crimps, wires etc. etc.
Price? Maybe 5EUR, I had all parts laying around so it did not cost me anything
Also take a look at the diagram for correct ACD solenoid placement as in the net there is some incorrect information.
Making this from a bunch of wires and a couple of buttons will save you ~160$ for a tool sold on eBay.
Schematic diagrams at:
https://geriaune.pro/shop/
Let's start:
1. Jack up the car so you can access AYC and ACD bleeding ports. You can leave the car on the wheels if desired- no need to lift it up for the bleeding if you can access bleeding ports that way.
2. Fill up reservoir with ATF fluid to the top
3. Attach hose to LEFT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
A Note: When you push "power" button- pump and Rear diff pressure control solenoid opens (this solenoid should be open to bleed both Left and Right parts of AYC)
5. Push "AYC Rear L" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
6. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 5 if required
7. Push "AYC Rear R" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
8. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 7 if required
9. Close Left bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
10. Attach hose to RIGHT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
11. Repeat steps 5 to 8
12. Close right bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
13. You're done with the AYC and rear diff, you can remove all cables going to the white solenoid connector
14. Move to the front of the car, add a hose to ACD bleeding port on the transfer case, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
15. Push "ACD FRONT" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
16. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 15 if required
17. Close the bleeding port, remove hose, jar, cables etc.
18. Leave reservoir fluid level at "MAX", check level after a while- it may rise up so be sure to take it out if it does.
19. Connect the pump up as it should, fire up the car, check lights- there was no error for me anymore
20. Profit.
Drive it around, check ATF level in the reservoir- usually it drops a bit when you drive it and comes back after it sits for a bit. It should not fluctuate a lot, maybe within MIN and MAX marks.
It looks like a lot but it actually took me ~30min. to do it all.
Last edited by ZyXEL; Aug 19, 2024 at 01:09 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Montana
There's another way: hardwire it in the trunk or standard place and bleed it without any special tools, one man job! The reason "spinning the wheel" did not work for me- car will turn on the pump and as soon as it senses no pressure (air in the system) it will turn the pump off and throw an error in the dash. After that it will not turn on the pump anymore. You need to bleed it with the car off and be able to cycle through the solenoids... Hence the hardwire method. There's no option to bleed it in the EvoScan for X (only up to X). As always- I'm not responsible for anything you will break or short-circuit during this (if not done properly). You should be fine if you follow the diagrams and rules though. I've done it myself.
Things you will need:
1. ATF fluid (follow the one in the manual)
2. Some wire (black and red for easier connections, length depends on the pump location)
3. 4 push buttons (for easier cycle-through of solenoids and power)
4. 50cm clear hose (smallest I could find in the store- just to fit on the bleeding nipple, same as the brake bleeding)
5. a jar for ATF fluid which will be pushed from AYC/ACD
6. Connectors for wire connections to solenoids/push buttons/battery - I just used whatever was laying around, use your own imagination.
Follow same rules for wiring it as you would for any electronics- insulate all connectors, crimps, wires etc. etc.
Price? Maybe 5EUR, I had all parts laying around so it did not cost me anything
Also take a look at the diagram for correct ACD solenoid placement as in the net there is some incorrect information.
Making this from a bunch of wires and a couple of buttons will save you ~160$ for a tool sold on eBay.
Schematic diagram:
https://contribee.com/geriaune/post/22477
Let's start:
1. Jack up the car so you can access AYC and ACD bleeding ports. You can leave the car on the wheels if desired- no need to lift it up for the bleeding if you can access bleeding ports that way.
2. Fill up reservoir with ATF fluid to the top
3. Attach hose to LEFT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
A Note: When you push "power" button- pump and Rear diff pressure control solenoid opens (this solenoid should be open to bleed both Left and Right parts of AYC)
5. Push "AYC Rear L" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
6. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 5 if required
7. Push "AYC Rear R" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
8. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 7 if required
9. Close Left bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
10. Attach hose to RIGHT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
11. Repeat steps 5 to 8
12. Close right bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
13. You're done with the AYC and rear diff, you can remove all cables going to the white solenoid connector
14. Move to the front of the car, add a hose to ACD bleeding port on the transfer case, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
15. Push "ACD FRONT" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
16. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 15 if required
17. Close the bleeding port, remove hose, jar, cables etc.
18. Leave reservoir fluid level at "MAX", check level after a while- it may rise up so be sure to take it out if it does.
19. Connect the pump up as it should, fire up the car, check lights- there was no error for me anymore
20. Profit.
Drive it around, check ATF level in the reservoir- usually it drops a bit when you drive it and comes back after it sits for a bit. It should not fluctuate a lot, maybe within MIN and MAX marks.
It looks like a lot but it actually took me ~30min. to do it all.
Things you will need:
1. ATF fluid (follow the one in the manual)
2. Some wire (black and red for easier connections, length depends on the pump location)
3. 4 push buttons (for easier cycle-through of solenoids and power)
4. 50cm clear hose (smallest I could find in the store- just to fit on the bleeding nipple, same as the brake bleeding)
5. a jar for ATF fluid which will be pushed from AYC/ACD
6. Connectors for wire connections to solenoids/push buttons/battery - I just used whatever was laying around, use your own imagination.
Follow same rules for wiring it as you would for any electronics- insulate all connectors, crimps, wires etc. etc.
Price? Maybe 5EUR, I had all parts laying around so it did not cost me anything
Also take a look at the diagram for correct ACD solenoid placement as in the net there is some incorrect information.
Making this from a bunch of wires and a couple of buttons will save you ~160$ for a tool sold on eBay.
Schematic diagram:
https://contribee.com/geriaune/post/22477
Let's start:
1. Jack up the car so you can access AYC and ACD bleeding ports. You can leave the car on the wheels if desired- no need to lift it up for the bleeding if you can access bleeding ports that way.
2. Fill up reservoir with ATF fluid to the top
3. Attach hose to LEFT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
A Note: When you push "power" button- pump and Rear diff pressure control solenoid opens (this solenoid should be open to bleed both Left and Right parts of AYC)
5. Push "AYC Rear L" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
6. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 5 if required
7. Push "AYC Rear R" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
8. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 7 if required
9. Close Left bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
10. Attach hose to RIGHT bleeding port on the rear diff, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
11. Repeat steps 5 to 8
12. Close right bleeding port on the rear diff, remove hose
13. You're done with the AYC and rear diff, you can remove all cables going to the white solenoid connector
14. Move to the front of the car, add a hose to ACD bleeding port on the transfer case, put the other end to the jar, crack the port open a turn or two until fluid starts running.
15. Push "ACD FRONT" button and push "Power" for 3 or so seconds, release both buttons
16. Check bleeding hose (there should be no bubbles visible), fill up reservoir, repeat step 15 if required
17. Close the bleeding port, remove hose, jar, cables etc.
18. Leave reservoir fluid level at "MAX", check level after a while- it may rise up so be sure to take it out if it does.
19. Connect the pump up as it should, fire up the car, check lights- there was no error for me anymore
20. Profit.
Drive it around, check ATF level in the reservoir- usually it drops a bit when you drive it and comes back after it sits for a bit. It should not fluctuate a lot, maybe within MIN and MAX marks.
It looks like a lot but it actually took me ~30min. to do it all.
I hope this isn't my internet being faulty, but I get a 404 message "post not found" when I open the schematic link. Is this link up to date? Thank you for the info!
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