Spinning wheel lug!!!
Spinning wheel lug!!!
I need major help I went to change out my stock pads for some new Axxis ones and what do you know....A lug was cross threaded and seized. So now the whole lug just spins.... I can't get the wheel off and I barley have any room under the car to get to the back and plus the shield for the rotor prevents me from getting to the back of the stud. Anyone have any ideas on what to do? I need to get this fixes ASAP as of right now I have the car just on 4 car stands....blahhh.
Grab the lug nut with some vice grips, lean back with your body weight and try to twist the lug...it might just get threaded enough to start coming out. Of course the assumes you have enough room to grab the lug nut.
If that doesn't work then you can try to push the lug in far/tight-enough that it will not move and try a tap/screw extractor to get it out:
http://homerepair.about.com/od/inter..._extractor.htm
If you have a time machine then you can try not forcing something that is stuck, stripping the threads does make the job harder. I, of course, have done this myself and spent a few hours extracting a cam gear bolt some years ago.
Good luck!
If that doesn't work then you can try to push the lug in far/tight-enough that it will not move and try a tap/screw extractor to get it out:
http://homerepair.about.com/od/inter..._extractor.htm
If you have a time machine then you can try not forcing something that is stuck, stripping the threads does make the job harder. I, of course, have done this myself and spent a few hours extracting a cam gear bolt some years ago.
Good luck!
I don't know about the X but typically there is one small opening where the back of the studs are accessible. If you can back it out far enough maybe you can slide a hacksaw blade in there and cut it off from the back side?
Here's a funky idea -- heat the lug with a soldering torch. One of those butane bernz-o-matics. It could help expand the lug enough to loosen it and help it turn off and possibly soften the threads of the stud so they don't bind... just be careful.
Here's a funky idea -- heat the lug with a soldering torch. One of those butane bernz-o-matics. It could help expand the lug enough to loosen it and help it turn off and possibly soften the threads of the stud so they don't bind... just be careful.
I don't know about the X but typically there is one small opening where the back of the studs are accessible. If you can back it out far enough maybe you can slide a hacksaw blade in there and cut it off from the back side?
Here's a funky idea -- heat the lug with a soldering torch. One of those butane bernz-o-matics. It could help expand the lug enough to loosen it and help it turn off and possibly soften the threads of the stud so they don't bind... just be careful.
Here's a funky idea -- heat the lug with a soldering torch. One of those butane bernz-o-matics. It could help expand the lug enough to loosen it and help it turn off and possibly soften the threads of the stud so they don't bind... just be careful.
Had this happen once at a tire and wheel shop. They put wedges around the nut to keep it from spinning and drilled it out. The stud is already destroyed and needs replaced anyway, so have at it!
Keith
Keith
Would a grinder fit back there? Let us know how you finally get it out.
Bring it up to about 150 mph and it will shear right off, problem solved!
They have smaller one handled hack saws available or you could even use a bare hacksaw blade, modified shorter if necessary and make a crude handle with shop rags and duct tape bound tightly. That should still eventually be able to cut a stud off. Wedging the wheel outward should also put pressure on it to stop it from spinning.
Let us know how it works out, and don't try the 150 mph thing if that wasn't already obvious!
They have smaller one handled hack saws available or you could even use a bare hacksaw blade, modified shorter if necessary and make a crude handle with shop rags and duct tape bound tightly. That should still eventually be able to cut a stud off. Wedging the wheel outward should also put pressure on it to stop it from spinning.
Let us know how it works out, and don't try the 150 mph thing if that wasn't already obvious!
Trending Topics
crack lug, drill stud, replace. That will (in the end) be the fastest and easiest way to get it out.....I wouldn;t want to be putting a hacksaw around my rotors and lines with "tight space".....its a bummer, but if you swap rims a lot, get used to doing it!
Well the problem was solved....took 30 seconds after talking to my local tire shop who actually helped on the phone instead of insisting I take it down there....
Well there solution take an impact gun and torque the ****er down and keep going till it generates enough heat and torque that it snaps the bolt. And guess what I had a snap-on impact just waiting for it...few pulls of the trigger non stop and snapped in half. So now I just need a new one and I'm set!
Well there solution take an impact gun and torque the ****er down and keep going till it generates enough heat and torque that it snaps the bolt. And guess what I had a snap-on impact just waiting for it...few pulls of the trigger non stop and snapped in half. So now I just need a new one and I'm set!
ROFL. Did that with a past car not the Evo....but not on purpose....haha. I actually once went to a shop they didn't use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs....just impact...I went a few days and then I noticed they were loose and in fact one flew off!!
But yes issues resolved. SS Lines are in and so are the pads....and dam Brembo...couldn't they have used better and bigger pins to tap out and hold the pads? These pins are so small it's hard to tap them out....
Well here is a before and after of the rubber OEM lines vs the Girodisk SS lines.
But yes issues resolved. SS Lines are in and so are the pads....and dam Brembo...couldn't they have used better and bigger pins to tap out and hold the pads? These pins are so small it's hard to tap them out....
Well here is a before and after of the rubber OEM lines vs the Girodisk SS lines.




