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lug nut torque?

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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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From: Owego (not Oswego)
lug nut torque?

i did a search, but couldn't find it for the evo X: what is the lug nut torque value for the evo X? i saw that the value is 98 Nm for the other evo versions, but is this the same for the X?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:15 PM
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From: kingston,ny
i would think its going to be the same as most small cars are close to the same, even from other companies.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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It should be in your owners manual.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 03:37 PM
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From: CNY
80 lb/ft
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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^+1 Did that when I rotated mine at 3k, drove and re-torqued.
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 03:10 PM
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From: Owego (not Oswego)
thanks FLK
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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I don't have my owner's manual handy, but I remember it giving a range of acceptable lug torque. Something like 72-85 lb/ft, but don't quote me on that.

80 lb/ft is fine. Your torque wrench will most likely be off by around 10%, which means you may be as low as 72 or as high as 88. You'll be fine.

--michael
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 12:18 AM
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From: MD
When you get two numbers do what the in between of them is.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 07:54 AM
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Unfortunately from the factory, my 1/2'' torque wrench was clicking at 200 ft-lbs when trying to remove the lugs. Like many have suggested, the correct specs are somewhere around 80. I always err on the side of over tightening wheels. (I've had one come off a car before.) Shops fault. Now I go to 90 ft-lbs max.

Most shops use impact wrenches to install lug nuts. And then when the customer tries to remove them, they get pissed whenever they can't break them loose. Moral to the story, request wheels to be torqued by hand!
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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Make sure you put anti-sieze on the stud's threads too - and torque them to 80 ft/lbs..

No, the lugnuts don't automagically backout, but it'll make it much easier to remove them though - especially when someone decides to use an impact gun.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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From: nc
Thereis torque for a reason. Its a clamping force,if you impact them on its wrong cause you are stretching the stud.
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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do not anti-sieze lug nut threads, factory torque values are for non-lubricated threads meaning you will overstress the lugs with anti-sieze if you torque to factory specs
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by weneversleep
I don't have my owner's manual handy, but I remember it giving a range of acceptable lug torque. Something like 72-85 lb/ft, but don't quote me on that.

80 lb/ft is fine. Your torque wrench will most likely be off by around 10%, which means you may be as low as 72 or as high as 88. You'll be fine.

--michael
If your torque wrench is off by 10% of indicated reading, use it as a hood prop or something else. I don't know of any manufacturer that specs a torque wrench above 6% of indicated, and even that is lousy.

A torque wrench that specs out @ ±2% of indicated reading within 10% to 100% of its rated capacity is a good starting point.
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Old Jun 22, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by funks
Make sure you put anti-sieze on the stud's threads too - and torque them to 80 ft/lbs..

No, the lugnuts don't automagically backout, but it'll make it much easier to remove them though - especially when someone decides to use an impact gun.
I know this is a few days old now but I just want to say how bad of an idea this is... DO NOT EVER! put any kind of lubrication on wheel studs. That 80 or 90lbs dry is now well over 100lbs.tq with lubrication. This puts a lot of stress on the studs especially if you take your wheels off lots.
If your wheel lugs are hard to thread on just clean the studs off with a wire brush and blow away the crap and same with the in sides of the lugs.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 02:35 AM
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I disagree, use the anti-seize. Just keep your torque values around 75 ft-lbs. Myself and other auto-xers use it because we've snapped studs from the constant wheel switching.
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