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Ran across this thread and had to comment. DO NOT use anti-seize or any type of lubricant on wheel lug nuts. As it was posted earlier, manufactures calculate torque for lug nuts using a dry torque. So, you should NEVER use any type of lubricant when installing and torquing lug nuts. Using a lube can over torque the wheel and that can possibly warp your expensive rotors.
As I stated above, you should never use anti-seize or any sort of lubricant on your lug nuts/studs. When engineers calculate the lug nut torque, they do so without the use of a lubricant (or dry torque as previously stated). As long as the lug nuts are installed and torqued correctly, you should never have an issue removing them using the manufacture's specified torque. 80 ft-lbs isn't a lot of torque. Also, if you have alloy/aluminum wheels, make sure to drive the vehicle about 250 miles and re-torque the lug nuts.
Using a lubricant can possibly result in a few different issues. One is over-torquing the wheel. While the other can be under torquing the wheel. A lot of that also depends on how often your torque wrench has been calibrated. Using a lubricant on the lug nuts can/will provide a false reading, to the torque wrench, from what the the manufacture intended. This is straight from one of the major US manufacture's service manuals that I write:
NOTE:Never use oil or grease on studs or wheel mounting (lug) nuts.
I understand that a few people on here have used anti-seize or a lubricant on their lug nuts, but in my 22+ years in the auto repair business, I have never used any type of lubrication on lug nuts and I have never had any issues. So, to each their own.
I am an ASE certified technician of 22+ years and I am currently a Service Engineer who has (and still does) created the mechanical and electrical service information (Service Manuals) for numerous American and Foreign auto makers for 12+ years.
I use anti-seize on mine but just because I have open ended Kics lugs, a friend of mine had one of his lugs break off cause the corrosion build up inside (lugs are steel btw). I torque to 73ft-lb with anti-seize, 80 without.
BTW what a F-in mess trying to get that broken lug out without damaging a VOLK CE28
Last edited by Jason S-9; Jan 28, 2013 at 09:32 AM.
You should never use anti seize on lug nuts. Should always go on dry. As far as compensating for a 10% out torque that is crazy. If you suspect your torque wrench is out get it re-calibrated or buy a new one. Never use a torque wrench to remove anything that will screw them up every time. Always use your service manual for torque values there is alot of engineering that goes into proper torque. Dont rely on a general spec for small cars that is also crazy. I have seen torque on nissans at 65ft/lbs and hondas at 82ft/lbs and chevy cavaliers at 100 ft/lbs. Lug nut torque should be done by hand always with a good torque wrench. Don't use torque sticks either they slowly wear out and put less torque then spec. You dont want your wheels coming loose killing you, your family or some else. I know this because i'm a journeyman automotive tech and a 4th year heavy duty mechanic with over 12 years in the trade.
Last edited by noctrnlgunfitr; Aug 27, 2013 at 08:28 PM.
I know this is a super old thread however I never saw someone actually give the actual Manuel answer. So here it is. On page 8-10 of my 2015 Evo X manual it states that 65-80ft-lb is required. However I feel like it's better to be safe than sorry so I would recommend 80ft-lb.
