For your track/AutoX wheels set, just don't put in the TMPS sensors; I think you have more things on your mind at the track than the dash tire pressure code. LOL

Later, Ken

 

No that's not what bothers me. From other postings on the forum, it says I may lose calibration on my street wheels when they're off the car too long. Dunno if that's true or if so, how long you can have the street wheels off before losing the calibration. For example if I tow to Nationals, the street wheels could be home in the garage for a couple weeks...maybe more.

And what about the guys who put snows on a second set of rims for the season?

 

Yes, from another thread which you last visited, a tech said, "New TPMS sensors or TPMS sensors that have been moved away from the vehicle for either extended periods of time or an extended distance from the vehicle will need to be "registered". So as you asked therein, what is an extended "period" and "distance"? I do not have an answer to either. That said, for two sets of rims, it is possible to transfer the TPMS from your DD wheels/ tires to your track wheels/tires w/o having to re-register the sensors. Although a pain, I admit, it is possible. For winter/summer tires rotation with one set of rims, you just change the tires.

Later, Ken

 

I'd not recommend the "all" A/W solution if anyone's interested in my experience. The AVID W4S tires at least. To say they're "safe" for winter driving is only for those who don't drive their Evo's very hard on curves.

Where I live, "winter" is more filled with 40+ degree dry weather than sub-freezing and snow/sleet. The AVIDs are ok in the slush, rain and light snow, track almost as well as when dry and warm. And that is the downside. The dry/warm cornering IS DANGEROUS. I've yet to test this out, but I theorize that the A/W tires are great for drifting. Not for any cornering that pushes our Evo's to more than 0.9g

And I bought my Evo for that, so I'll know better next year to avoid the AVID's and try the continentals. The AVID's upsides are: braking, accelerating and tread-life. Downsides are: cornering, cornering and weight (heavier than OEM means more rotational inertia, slower acceleration by a hair, 0.1sec slower than "reviews" in my only trap time last Nov.)

 

Yes, the W4S are definitely not as good as many other AS tires. For Yoko the S4, the Mich Pilot Sport and GY F1 are all superior to this tire in both wet and dry conditions according to Tire Rack.

Later, Ken

 

I'm not sure who you heard this from, but unless it's a 20 minute per run autox and you're drifting everywhere and the autox happens to be on an area filled with broken glass, you're not going to destroy a set of tires at one event.

Last year, evo_someday and I codrove my X on star specs at an event @ mineral wells. Roughly 90 second runs on a very rough, gravelly surface. Then we did fun runs when it was done. at least 15 runs were done on my car.

Driving home there was some new road noise from all the new knobbies on my tires, but by the time I got home everything was fine.

I got up the next morning and put 6-10 more runs on those tires out at Mineral Wells again (it was a two day event).

I likely have 30-45 runs + daily driving + 2 track days on my star specs. The whole time I was running 3* camber up front and 2* in back. At 6500-7000 miles the centers look ok (not quite to the wear bars), but the shoulders are starting to wear out (between the camber and autox). I'm pleased with the wear to performance ratio.

The stock tires lasted 1 day at the track, 5500 miles of daily driving and 30-40 autox runs. The vast majority of this was on stock alignment. The tires were worn out on the outside shoulders (autox wear) and were past the wear bars in the center.

 

^

My HERO! Driving and the star specs! Sounds great -- SPRING TIME PLEASE ARRIVE.

(BTW, was any of the "gravelly surface" loose? Were ya busting chips off the girl?)

 

Well, nothing is better than experience and you certainly have demonstrated that many, many runs are possible on a single set; it seems the Star Specs definitely out last the Advans A13C which lasted only 5500 mi. What is interesting is that the difference in the UTQG rating between these two tires is only 20 units, maginal difference, and yet the difference in wear appears to be quite different.

I have -2.5 camber front, -1.9 rear and after 11000mi there is significant wear on the inside edges of the Advans and I rotated at 6Kmi. Since I did zero Autox, this wear is due to the camber only; I would suspect -3 camber will be even worse yeilding <10K mi/set although Autox'ing will tend to "even out" the wear on the rest of the tire.

Later, Ken

 

I rotate front to back (the D1's are directional, the stocks are not and can rotate the normal criss-cross pattern) after every event. That helps.

Also, if the inside shoulders are heavily worn and the outsides and main section look good, then have the tires broken down off the wheels and flipped. That will get you more life. If you find a friend at a shop it should cost you less than $50 to do this. $50 for 3-5000 miles is a steal IMO.

A bit. I had it taped up a little though:


Not like this guy though:

 

Two things...

1. I wouldn't trust the wear rating. It's just a number put on the tire. Neal@TireRack has said the same thing.

2. I am SURE that I am partially to blame for the stock tires going out quicker than the star specs. I was (and am) still learning how to drive the car and, honestly, was overdriving the crap out of it at any opportunity. The stock tires likely would be lasting just as long as the D1's if I was driving them like I drive the D1's if I had to guess.

 

You mean that after less than a full year, something like 14k, you've STOPPED driving the crap out of your car on your DD? That's what I wake up and look forward to going to work for. I spend about 15+miles each way on curvy treacherous well-paved roads, and another 15 on semi-autobahn US interstate (too bad it passes a hwy patrol hq). The hwy speeds are sometimes entertaining if I find someone wanting to race me (e.g. Mr. Porsche 911 last night), but once I hit those back roads, HANG ON. I still drive the crap out of it. I figure I'm saving brake pads and increasing their life ;-)

Although, from what I am reading btwn the lines, if I drove them HARDER than the advans, now that I have learned how to push it even harder, closer to the line, the D1's might last less than OEM? LOL, doubt it. Maybe same? I'll let ya all know, hopefully the D1's make it through the warm season. Or not.

 

lol.... no I drive it just as hard, but more correctly. Meaning cornering better (not apexing as early or late). During autocross, if you drive incorrectly you get "rewarded" with poor times and lots of tire wear.

 

Goofy, you make me jealous. I haven't even got a garage of my own, gotta borrow my neighbors. Not a trailer, just an old country house, but man, I wish I had your involvement level in running my Evo hard. And safe & legal too.

So sadly, I was finally getting the hang of my ADVANs when I felt winter-was-too-close, and dropped on these gosh-awful AVIDs. Life behind the wheel has not been all that educational since. I'm playing the patience game, got those D1's all new, plus probably got another 1000m out of the old OEM rubber if I play it safe in the rain.

Can't wait to go thru remedial education this spring!!!! Summer extreme handling tires ought to wake me up.