If you go with a 40 sidewall but 255s, you aren't increasing overall diameter, you're only increasing width. 35s DECREASE overall diameter. Why would you suggest it would screw with the SST? I wouldn't think the SST reacts to speed as much as throttle position relative to current time in a given gear and the tach info. The tires would not affect that.

I wonder if 255/45s would rub on the stock GSR wheel....stock MR suspension.

WHY is the GSR wheel marked Mitsu not Enkei?

 

The smaller number 40 represents the aspect ration which is used to determine the height of the side wall. So the side wall is equal to 40% of the tires width. So 40% of 255mm is 102mm just like 35% of 245mm is 85.75mm. Since the two are related to each other other anytime you increase the tires width you also increase the overall diameter.

 

Just what I was looking for! Thanks

 

I need your help to understand how flipping the bolt will help.
The bolt established the phisic camber limit at -1°. Flipping the bolt this limit is pushed away to get more or less -2°, and that is clear.
What i'd like to know is if the bolt itself is the direct responsable of the camber variation or if flipping it I can get -2° working on other suspension elements like for toe.
Thanks

 

Help please...

 

On my stock 2010 MR, my local alignment shop was able to set up my car to these specs:


FRONT: (L) and (R)
Camber: -1.1 and -1.2
Caster: 3.9 and 4.0
Toe: 0.00 and 0.01

REAR: (L) and (R)
Camber: -1.1 and -1.0
Toe: 0.16 and 0.16

It's a little bit off from the original post, but according to the shop, it's within factory ranges.

 

So I have kinda of crazy question.
I have a set of Racing Hart J5 Pro in 19 x 8.5 all around. (Bought them for a car and have had them in my garage since 2004). Getting them powder coated to match the Advan RG-D Gold color and put on my EVO as my daily driving wheel.

How would I go about finding out what the offset of these wheels are? The company no longer is in business and they are super rare. THe bolt pattern is the 5x114.3. The hub size is 67mm so I am getting it bored up the .1mm for perfect fitment. Also am getting the 315MHz Tire Pressure Sensor to go with the TPMS. Looking forward to having these wheels on.

Thinking about getting the Advan Neova AD08 tires to put on em since I'll be in Texas for the next few years. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

The wheel's offset is usually stamped on the inside of one of the spokes of the wheel itself, right next to "EV". So for example "EV+25" means the wheel has a +25mm offset. Hope that helps.

 

I'm current at spec on the -1 deg camber, am going to flip the bolt and re-align next week, so I'm subb'ed and will update you on before/after measurements. My goal will be to get back to 0 deg toe, but I have been told and read that changing it to neg camber a bit more increases (??) toe up front and tends to result in the car being a bit squrrelly at speed.

 

So is the 'racing' concensus that the positive toe in the rear helps a car at speed be more stable? I'm wondering what to do for a weekend at putnum park with R-comps, I already want to max neg camber as I can, but was curious about the other thing that can be tweaked....

 

This may seem dumb but i'm trying to save a couple bucks.

Selling my Ralliart and may have secured an Evo X. I have the stock Ralliart rims wrapped in Blizzacks (other rims are on the car now) and i'd rather just try to put those on the Evo then buy new snow tires.

Ralliart stock is 18x7, +46 offset.

I realize it will look stupid (width-wise) on 215 wide tires but frankly i don't care, it's winter. Just wondering if it's do-able.

 

Your biggest hurdle will be if those wheels clear the front Brembo brakes. Since it has more to do with spoke design you really would have to test fit them to verify it will work.

 

That is the idea, some toe in does help stability in the rear, although I favor on the low side of the factory spec, between 1-3mm total toe in seems good, make sure it is evenly split between each side.

I recently decided to improve my stock alignment and started with the fronts where I got -2.2* camber with some tweaking and zero toe. The trick is to do one side at a time and you can use a pair of tape measures to determine within +-.5mm difference of the leading edge of the wheel compared to the trailing edge that everything is in spec. From the factory it was pretty much zero toe, maybe .5mm total toe in.

For the rear it got more challenging, I ended up getting a set of Timmyspec adjustable control arms that one of my friends started making as the stock -1.1* wasn't enough for my satisfaction. I measured the total toe in before and it was 5mm, so 2.5mm each side. Factory spec is 3mm total toe in, +-2mm or a range of 1mm to 5mm.

As you add negative camber on the trailing edge of the rear wheels, you need to adjust toe or it will be severely pointed inward. Passenger side I was able to get as much as -2.5* camber before my toe adjustment ran out, where as the driver side I could only get -2.0* so that was going to be the limiting factor. When I did a quick test drive with too much toe in on the driver side after it ran out of adjustment, the car was a total handful and very squirly. Too much is bad as well, and they need to be even or you will have to steer down the road off centered on your wheel. I ended up going with -2.0* in both rears and was able to get 3mm total toe in with 1.5mm toe in on each side.

Let me tell you, the car handles amazing now and is very stable as long as you ignore the stock body roll. A new coilover suspension is coming next but wanted to get it to this better alignment spec first to better gauge the before and after.

 

I just came back from doing a alignment. Eibach pro-kit.

Front (R) / (L)

Camber -1.9/-1.8
Toe 0/0

Rear (R) / (L)

Camber -1.4/-1.4
Toe 0/0

I wanted -1 camber in the rear but the tech said the most he could do was -1.4
Anyone else encounter this in the rear?

 

That should work quite well, usually the rear will only go -1.0* camber +-.5 and since some cars are not perfectly matched from left to right one might be limiting the other in order to keep them even, especially if something is bent.

The whole reason I had to get rear adjustable control arms was because the car wouldn't get more than -1.2* on one side, then if you go too much negative camber you are out of toe factory toe adjustment somewhere between -2.0* and -2.5* camber, which is usually just enough for fitting really wide tires.

Basically the more negative camber you go, the more outward toe adjustment you need so that it's not too far toed in. If you just added negative camber in the rear without adjusting toe, both rear tires would be massively toed in to the point of causing driveline engine lights to come up on the dash. Having 1-3mm total toe in on the rear seems to work well to stablize the car, just make sure it's even on both sides.