Need suggestions. Installed a Wilwood race brake kit on the front of my X. Bleeding seemed to go well. When no more air was evident, I fired it up but the firm pedal went soft. So I shut it down and hit each nipple one more time, getting just a little air out. But the pedal now went full soft, to the floor. The system must have found some more air? I never had to add too much fluid during the process, so I don't think I sucked any in.

Anyway I rebled from scratch and got a lot more air out of both sides. But now I'm not getting any air, and the pedal still goes to the floor. Just for grins, I bled the rear and in 30 strokes got not a single bubble. I've gone thru a quart of fluid and am on my way out to buy a couple more quarts.

I was planning on borrowing a power bleeder, but talked to Wilwood and they said not to. According to them it pulls the fluid thru the system too fast causing cavitation. Just saying what they told me. Maybe a pot style like the Motive would be better, but there don't seem to be any available in town. And a mechanic who used to use it threw his away because of the frequent failures to seal properly to the reservoir. So the knowledgeble people are telling me to do it manually.

Anyone had this same problem?

Thanx, Bill. Now off to AutoZone for fluid.

 

Clutch line? Fitting not closed 100%?

 

Do MR clutches draw fluid from the brake reservoir? Anyway, since I only messed with the front brakes I'm expecting the problem is there. All the nipples are snugged and I don't think they're leaking. There's some fluid here and there because bleeding is a little messy. But nothing dripping or pooling.

I'm going to try the power bleeder since I have one available. We'll see.

 

Make sure you tap the calipers with a rubber mallet to dislodge any bubbles that are trapped in the caliper body. Many times especially with new calipers bubbles will cling to imperfections inside the caliper and you will never get them out by just bleeding. Tap them lightly with a rubber mallet or a typed hammer and I am sure it will get them to float up to the bleeder. Crack the line one more time and you should be good to go.

 

Thanks Johann,

Actually I didn't know why, but I knew it was a good idea to tap the calipers and had done that. No joy. And the power bleeder was a bust. These Wilwoods have the smallest bleed nipples I've ever seen and I couldn't get a tight enough fit on them to draw any vacuum.

But I am making progress. Just let it sit a few hours and tried again manually and got some air out. Then did another pass with the engine idling and got a little more air out. The pedal is finally off the floor, at least close to normal. I'll put everything back together tomorrow and drive it around a few days. Then rebleed all-around before the next race.

I'm gonna have to see if they make speed-bleeders that small.

 

Try this.

1. Start at the brake furthest away from the brake reservoir. With the bleeder nipple closed, have a buddy press the brake pedal all the way down.

2. With the brake pedal press down, loosen the bleeder nipple. If there is air in the brake lines, the brake pedal should press down further.

3. Tighten the bleeder nipple all the way with the brake pedal still press down.

4. Once the bleeder nipple is tighten, release the brake pedal.

5. Repeat 3-4 times on each brake.

I had the same problem when I upgraded my brakes on my 02 WRX. Did everything I could thing of to bleed the lines and nothing working. I called a shop up around my house and they told me to try this. I did and it worked like a champ. Toke my and my wife not even 10 minutes to do all 4 brakes. Good Luck Man.