Recommended Dampening
Recommended Dampening
I looked everywhere, but didn't find much information on recommended dampening settings. I understand everyone has different taste, and different coilovers and such. Do people usually stagger their dampening settings? I have BC's and from what I was told you typically want to run higher dampening in the front? Is this the right move, or will it have an adverse effect on cornering characteristics? IF so, how much should the dampening be staggered?
personally I like to get really damp by getting in the shower and THEN putting on the shampoo.
ooooooooooh you mean damping.
I tend to run stiffer in the rear to promote a more oversteer feel.
ooooooooooh you mean damping.
I tend to run stiffer in the rear to promote a more oversteer feel.
I found this chart pretty helpful for understanding what I was feeling in the car:
http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm
Assuming you have the regular BC Racing coilovers your Bound and Rebound settings will be on one dial. What spring rates do you have front and rear? I would tend to agree that the rear end should be slightly stiffer and therefore have lower tractions limits compared to the front to induce some oversteer. If it's too much, worst case you can turn it down again, just don't spin when learning the limits!
Generally I try and find the minimum settings that work well on the street where the ride isn't too harsh (stiff) or too bouncy (soft) and establish that as the baseline. Then if I want more oversteer I increase the rear sway bar stiffness and also the rear shock stiffness a little higher and test that combo out for stability. For track settings you would probably just increase both front and rear by 5-10 clicks in a similar proportion as a starting point and tweak from there keeping in mind that the settings aren't always perfectly linear.
Hope that helped!
http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm
Assuming you have the regular BC Racing coilovers your Bound and Rebound settings will be on one dial. What spring rates do you have front and rear? I would tend to agree that the rear end should be slightly stiffer and therefore have lower tractions limits compared to the front to induce some oversteer. If it's too much, worst case you can turn it down again, just don't spin when learning the limits!
Generally I try and find the minimum settings that work well on the street where the ride isn't too harsh (stiff) or too bouncy (soft) and establish that as the baseline. Then if I want more oversteer I increase the rear sway bar stiffness and also the rear shock stiffness a little higher and test that combo out for stability. For track settings you would probably just increase both front and rear by 5-10 clicks in a similar proportion as a starting point and tweak from there keeping in mind that the settings aren't always perfectly linear.
Hope that helped!
I would agree that if possible you should have the proper spring rates and/or adjustable rear sway bar to get the balance right, let alone the other factors of dialing in the car. Then set the shock damper for the right corner entry and exit balance that works for the driver assuming they are tuned for the spring rates. What Goofy (and I) mentioned doing above is basically reducing handling in the rear of the car to get it to oversteer more and more or less a bandaid to the real issue. I think you are pointing out that increasing grip in the front in some manner would raise the overall handling of the car at the same time assuming the shocks are dialed in and all other things being equal.
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you're likely running 6F 8R unless you did something wrong.
effective spring rate is more than just the number on the spring. The distance from the fulcrum that the spring acts upon is important in the calculation of the spring rate.
effective spring rate is more than just the number on the spring. The distance from the fulcrum that the spring acts upon is important in the calculation of the spring rate.
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Joined: May 2009
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From: NC
Instead of trying to compensate by running a STIFF rear swaybar setting, you'd be much better off having the spring rates changed on the coilovers. This may require a revalve with the BCs....my advice would be to sell them anyway and buy something decent that uses proper spring rates from the factory.
Yeah he does likely have the 8k front/6k rear combo from when they first came out. More recently they have switched to a 10k/10k setup as default and you can order whatever combo you want and have the shocks valved for them at time of purchase. You can usually go up or down 2k in spring rates without revalving , keeping in mind that the shock settings will have to shift up or down somewhat to compensate properly.
Great, just great. Well I wanted to compromise. I heard good things about BC in terms of quality/price, so I thought by doubling my effective spring rate while keeping the suspension DDable would be a good thing. Between going from 18x8.5 245/40 Advan tires on Works springs to going with 19x9.5 Toyo 275/30 T1r on BC's....I think I am going in reverse. Oh well, this will be my setup for the summer....maybe a set of 265/30 AD08s will offset the performance woes. In theory, wider tire and higher spring rate = more grip, right?