Im looking to buy a motive speed bleeder but i don't know which adapter to get for the single bleeder does anyone have one of these?


here are the choices.

http://store.motiveproducts.com/sing...eders-c16.aspx

 

0107

 

pretty sure you need the 0107 Ford adapter, works for the VIII and IX.

 

i used mine for the first time last week. absolutely amazing. bled all 4 brakes and my clutch in less then a half hour.

 

Only bad thing about this system is that it supposedly forces moisture into the fluid. I have an idea about a way to add a diaphragm to it.

 

i got my speedbleeder and the ford 3 prong doesn't lock onto the Evo 10's brke fluid tank am i doing it wrong has anyone used these on an evo 10?

 

Bump, I want to know to before I order one. Mr. Move you got the 0107?

 

Anyone tried Phoenix System?
http://www.brakebleeder.com/

 

Im interested also. I bought one universal one that does not fit. Waiting on more opinions before i go buy the adaptor for mine.

 

The 0107 works but it takes patience to line it up and get it on securely. You definitely want shop towels handy when using them.

 

Yea I have the Ford one too. It takes some time to align the adapter properly for it to fit.

 

Just got mine and will be doing my pads and bleeding tomorrow. I'll keep that in mind.

Also keep reading conficting comments regarding which to do first, bleed or replace pads? On my WRXs in the past, I've always done the pads first, then blead.

 

Well, that's cause it's hard to answer. the PERFECT way would be to bleed, change, and bleed some more. The fluid that's at the end of the system is dirty and needs to travel out, never in.

WHen you change, the new pads will be thicker than the old ones, 100% of the time. So that means that to fit them in the same place, you need to open them up. That's done, most commonly, by opening the reservoir and pushing the calipers open a bit (by hand, screwdriver, or special caliper spreading tool -- love mine).

You "can" open the bleeder valve and then spread and let the bleeder's push that out. That's a handful without letting tons of air into the system that then has to be bleed for certain. That's not my cuppo tea.

I'd recommend using the judgement of "how long has it been since my last flush?" drive the approach. If you flush between pad changes, so for HPDE's, you shouldn't worry and I usually install pads first and then flush.

But if you don't flush fluid regularly (firstly, begin doing so, performance and longevity of your calipers), you should flush before doing anything that changes the position of your caliper pistons. The deal there is that you flush, you change/fill fluid, you later overflow the reservoir when spreading, making room for the new pads by compressing the pistons. When you flush, the tools usually all get you to a "full" level, but with worn pads, that's too much fluid.

NOTE: you can't open the caliper pistons up AFTER you flush by using the external bleeder screw, you'll let air in.

 

Slightly off topic, but if you’re still considering which bleeder to buy, I’d suggest looking at “Speedbleeders”
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
One way check valve, that way all of the old fluid (including when you’re pushing pistons in for new pads) is going “out” not back into the system. Have used them on two cars now, work great, makes bleeding a one man operation that I can do at the track. Note; you just want to open them a quarter turn or so, not full rotation (otherwise you may get some air leakage around the threads).

 

Thanks, good stuff. I used the Motive bleeder with 107 attachement, had no issues with it fitting, but the brass connection between the attachment and the pump leaked a bit.

I did open up the bleeders before taking the pads out, and even with the littlest movement, fluid would come out so it's very pressure sensitive. I awhere in. Most of the air came from the rear inners.

Anyways, the brakes are fantastic feeling, better than new!