Lifting the inside rear wheel
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From: Was: Fredericksburg, Va Now: Madison, AL
Lifting the inside rear wheel
Maybe this should be posted in the motorsports section, but it makes sense to be in the suspension section.
Did a autox this past Sunday on the Evo X's stock suspension and noticed I was lifting the inside rear wheel bad on tight turns. Also noticed tons of body roll. Of course adding quality coilovers would correct this but its not in the budge right now.
So I'm thinking a large front sway bar? What size do you guys think? 27mm, 29 or even 32? and maybe some good springs as well. In the end it will just be a temporary solution for the year, but I don't want to kill the rear diff due to lifting the inside rear wheel constantly.
Did a autox this past Sunday on the Evo X's stock suspension and noticed I was lifting the inside rear wheel bad on tight turns. Also noticed tons of body roll. Of course adding quality coilovers would correct this but its not in the budge right now.
So I'm thinking a large front sway bar? What size do you guys think? 27mm, 29 or even 32? and maybe some good springs as well. In the end it will just be a temporary solution for the year, but I don't want to kill the rear diff due to lifting the inside rear wheel constantly.
Last edited by 4B11AWD; Apr 11, 2011 at 08:36 AM.
I don't think it is correct to assume that lifting inside rear is that bad as you are are trying to point out! If you had an open diff or some kind of mechanical diff in the rear that can not handle unloaded wheel for its operation, then it would not be good for such diff. But, in this case you have an electronically controlled rear diff that sends amount of power to where it thinks it should go. In the case when the inside rear is up in the air, you are breaking and turning at the same time (as opposite from accelerating), so there will be not that much power applied there anyway.
In general, stiffer cars have more tendency to lift that inside rear (VW Golf comes here as the first choice). If you have rear wheels driven, then that will affect power application depending on the type of diff you have under there. Again, I don't think AYC will suffer from it as much as some other diffs (any Torsen diff without pre-load is a weak one here) could.
Now, for your driving dynamics, having inside rear up is obviously pointing out that there was a lot of diagonal weight transfer and there are things one can do to minimize that if needed. If you would slow down a bit more before you start to turn, and then drive through the turn with the throttle, this effect would be drastically decreased. As a bonus, you might even record better times at the end, because this is the fastest way around in most cases!
So, if you want to add front bar to improve your car handling (too much sway for example), I would say go for it. But, if the only reason for that is to avoid lifting of your inside rear, then I would call it slight waste of money. Slight is because you would still benefit from it for reasons other then decreased lifting of inside rear!
Fedja
In general, stiffer cars have more tendency to lift that inside rear (VW Golf comes here as the first choice). If you have rear wheels driven, then that will affect power application depending on the type of diff you have under there. Again, I don't think AYC will suffer from it as much as some other diffs (any Torsen diff without pre-load is a weak one here) could.
Now, for your driving dynamics, having inside rear up is obviously pointing out that there was a lot of diagonal weight transfer and there are things one can do to minimize that if needed. If you would slow down a bit more before you start to turn, and then drive through the turn with the throttle, this effect would be drastically decreased. As a bonus, you might even record better times at the end, because this is the fastest way around in most cases!
So, if you want to add front bar to improve your car handling (too much sway for example), I would say go for it. But, if the only reason for that is to avoid lifting of your inside rear, then I would call it slight waste of money. Slight is because you would still benefit from it for reasons other then decreased lifting of inside rear!
Fedja
i'd start with stiffer springs to lower the car and cut out the body roll. they make a huge difference. if that's not enough, consider the rear sway bar. size isn't as important and the materials and construction. whiteline is a good safe choice. hit up gtworx for springs. they're not too far from you, up near dc. i can vouch for that combo!
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Evolving Member
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From: Was: Fredericksburg, Va Now: Madison, AL
i'd start with stiffer springs to lower the car and cut out the body roll. they make a huge difference. if that's not enough, consider the rear sway bar. size isn't as important and the materials and construction. whiteline is a good safe choice. hit up gtworx for springs. they're not too far from you, up near dc. i can vouch for that combo!
limited travel ... LOL
it is not a big problem but ideally you want all wheels on the ground all the time. Doesn't look cool but faster.
The best guy here can help you and i would contact him and explain what you want from a car. GTworx /Andrew/
Rob
it is not a big problem but ideally you want all wheels on the ground all the time. Doesn't look cool but faster.
The best guy here can help you and i would contact him and explain what you want from a car. GTworx /Andrew/
Rob
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