Cross posting this......

Did the alignment today due to lowering spring. No time to do alignment just right after install of spring. The car was OK before alignment, no pulling anywhere.

Now after alignment my car pulls to the left. WTF. I'm in a hurry and nobody explain it to me.

The Before specs on the second picture...the caster is already 3.7 to the left and the toe is whack but no pulls. After alignment the toe was fixed and the caster is still the same but now it pulls to the left. I just told them to max the camber but if it is pulling why not tell me. I'm brining it back to them this friday(Firestone)

Any reason why my caster is 3.7, is it adjustable? is it the lowering spring. What do I need to do? RCA?

Thank you.



Before Progress Spring Install.


After Progress Spring Install.



Can I say GRRRRRRRR... I asked the technician and she told me there should be a frame problem. I don't have any accident at all. My drop is only 1.2 front,0.8 rear. I dont think the rear sway bar will do this.

 

I also asked them to rotate the tires. This is directional(front to rear) not sure if they did it right.

 

Does it pull to the left, meaning that you need to exert force on the steering wheel to go straight ahead on level ground, or is it merely that the steering wheel needs to be turned a little in order to go straight on level ground.

Many people use the word "pull" when they really mean "steer-ahead."

 

to go straight i need the steering wheel just maybe 3mm to the right. if not the car will go to the left. i dont need to excert effort to keep it straight. plan is to align again with less camber.

 

That's just steer-ahead, not pulling. Did they have the steering wheel locked at straight ahead (with a club-like thing between the steering wheel and brake pedal) while doing the alignment?

Edit: oops. I just looked at your specs. More likely it's camber thrust from the extra right-front camber. They can't fix this because, without plates, you only have two options for camber in the front. You can fix this yourself. Just adjust the toe in the front by exactly opposite amounts until it steers straight. Or tell the alignment guy how much you have to rotate the wheel to steer ahead and have him or her do it. But if this is camber-thrust, you can't fix the root problem without camber plates.

 

will see. will dropping 1.2 front cause camber to be like this....so many of us did spring, eibach has a bigger drop even HR.

 

I don't have wide enough experience with Evo Xs to answer your question, but I can tell you that mine has more right-front camber than left-front-camber, too. And that's before I get in.

 

Cobb Plano. I hour only.Alignment plus oil changed(Motul) Not bad compare to 2 hours of Firestone Nascar inspired alignment. No more left pulling. The bad thing is I'm used to that left pull already. It feels weird driving it now. Lol.

Front L/R 1.8
Rear L/R1.5
Toe 0

 

That's great, but how the heck did they delete .3* of your right-front camber? Please don't say that they twisted the camber bolt.

 

I know they're called "camber plates" but camber plates shouldn't be used to adjust camber, but kinpin inclination angle and scrub radius. twisting the camber bolt is the best way to adjust camber on our cars without messing up other stuff. if you get camber plates to fix this, then it'll throw off your kpa and scrub radius side to side. here's a good article on it if you wanna get all nerdy
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...and-scrub.aspx


OP, I 99% sure your problem is firestone. thats for minivans and camry's. go to a real alignment shop, one that does racecar alignments. I'm sure they'll solve all your problems...

 

I don't know, I came from night shift and so tired.

 

Whoa. What? I was under the very strong impression that our upper bolts should never be twisted ... that the arrow should be inwards or outwards, period. Or am I misunderstanding your suggestion?

 

I guess if you put it that way I'm not sure if the evo x bolts are up to the task of holding camber in a position other than straight in or out, but from a general suspension geometry point of view, camber plates shouldn't be used to adjust camber.

at least not in different positions side to side, you gotta make sure to keep the kpa / scrub radius also. so if you're compensating for camber on one side with a plate it will throw off the kpa and scrub radius.

 

all the 2 shops did was adjust toe. how much did they charge you for that?

 

It's way OT, but I don't agree. Camber bolts have a much larger effect on scrub than plates. When you adjust camber with a plate, the point where the steering axis hits the ground moves in parallel with where the tire hits the ground; scrub is not changed much if at all. When you adjust camber with bolts, the steering axis doesn't move, but the tire does, so scrub changes. If your scrub is currently equal, but your camber is mismatched, I'd equalize them using plates, not adjustable bolts, because I agree that scrub needs to be equal to avoid a "pull" to one side. This is why, I believe, high-end coilovers come with plates and no camber adjustment at the knuckle. They are made to have equal scrub, so no tweaking should be done at the knuckle; it should all be done at the plate.

The main drawback of equalizing camber at the plate is something quite different: having the coilovers at different angles causes the wheels rates to be slightly different, since changing the angle of the coilover alters the motion ratio. But the changes in motion ratio are not at all large, and having equal scrub is so important, that you still decide to do your camber-tweaking at the plate in most cases.

[Note: I'm not at 100% confidence on this and would welcome discussion. I.e., I'm not here to argue; I'm telling you what I currently think and I'm open to learning.]