Hey guys I am here looking for your opinions on coils. The car is my DD. I drive 10 miles to work and back not much at all. This car won’t see a track as long as I have it. My whole plan was to buy KW coils but with the realism setting in I just don’t think I need to spend that much on a dd that won’t see a track. What are your guys opinion’s on mid range prices on coils about 1500. I hear stance gr+ are pretty good. I want a good coil for dd nothing cheap like megan. Do i need the whiteline rca as well just for dd? I know there are threads about this already but all of them include tracking, in the nicest way if you’re going to say do your research there are plenty of threads about this please just don’t reply at all. I’ve looked and I am still in a toss up.

Also I plan on buying rpf1 18/9.5 but I don’t know what offset. Probably planning on running 265/35/18 hannock v12 maybe 255/35/18. What are you suggestions? I don’t mind if I have to roll my fenders but I rather not. I plan on probably dropping the coils a inch maybe slightly more. I am just looking for a nice stance without running to much camber. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated

 

For DD, you can skip the RCA. Fortune Auto coilovers fit your price range and get great reviews. I've actually got a thread for them here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...y-control.html

I'd look for offsets between +20 and +25 for an 18x9.5.

 

The car is a DD, DON"T BUY COILOVERS!

 

Thank you, what kind of price can you do for me shipped to 18017.

If he x had any type of stance at all I wouldn't but being able to fit a fist in the gap that is just way to much.

 

get some GTWorx springs, there are a bunch of pictures in one of the threads below... or do you wanna slam you car?

 

No i do not plan on slamming my car. If so i would of bought another car 2 years ago. I'm just planning on having a nice stance. Trying to drop it like 1.5inches or so on a decent set of coils that are going to last and not blow out anything.

 

There are springs out there that give that amount of drop. You're not reaping any benefits of a coilover for the money you'll spend and only daily driving the car.

 

So basically you saying that springs say like swift which if i ever did get springs they would be swift most likely are better a mid range coil. What the post is about I am willing to spend about 1700ish max for the best i can get. I just don't see how $300 springs will be better then coils. Yes i know its a DD car and i can see your point of view but i rather spend 1700 instead of 300 unless springs are better. Please explain and ignore the fact that it is a dd. I respect everything you saying as it brightens my knowledge. I know how to rebuild engines and everything with the engine basically but when it comes to wheels size/offsets/coils/springs that just goes right over my head because I didn't have any type personal experience with it yet. I rebuilt my old motors but suspension was always stock. So as i said before i respect everything you're saying so I am not arguing with you if i came across that way. Thanks

 

I think 1700 coils vs 300 springs is truly close call both for comfort and performance.

The Fortune Dreadnaughts are in that price range and have a great thread, but very few in-person reviews yet. Other coilovers with truly great reviews are more than that, sometimes significantly more.

For wheels 18x9.5 +25 is almost precisely flush, and 255 or 265 will work depending on the tire. Don't go wider than 18x9.5 unless you like your wheels/tires a bit past fender.

For maximum performance (less sidewall flex) I'd recommend a 255, but as a daily driver the added comfort of a 265 may be beneficial.

 

Rules of Suspension

1). Stiff is not always fast.
2). JDM sucks.
3). Less is more.

Lowering Springs: Notice I never mentioned them? Good. That's because they're awfully overrated for something that accomplishes a lot more bad than good. Here are the Pros and the Cons.
First, the Pros:
-Lowers the car which lowers the cg
-Increases spring rate
Now, the Cons:
-Lowers the car too much 99% of the time
-Eats up precious bump travel, reducing ride quality and suspension compliance to zero.
-Does not increase the spring rate enough to really matter
-Reduces shock life substantially
-Doesn't always take corner weighting into consideration (Swift does..yay Swift)
-Have yet to show much of a decrease in lap times.

Coilovers: Asian coilovers are valved to have high rebound in the low speed and high speed area of the shock dyno. This is bad for ride quality and bump absorption. This means that the tire will leave the pavement over bumps on track. This is a loss of traction.

Asian coilovers also do not offer much strut travel, which when combined with the valving, mean a lot of areas on bumpy roads or tracks where the damper is not keeping the tire to the pavement.

Asian coilovers love dual-height adjustability. It means nothing for performance since there isn't enough strut travel to make use of it. Maybe some inboard spring clearance could be had, but that's not a sure thing.

Asian coilovers are expensive despite all of these downsides. For some reason, people run them under the pretense that they're decent. Not sure where that came from.

BC Racing, etc. coilovers. Cheap and effective for autocrossing. Not comfortable on the GD/GR for the street and will overheat on the track. Camber plates rust out and the bearing will disintegrate after 6 months to a year. You get what you pay for, but if you are smart enough to avoid lowering springs but can't afford good coilovers, you buy these and accept the drawbacks rather than pay twice as much for Tein, Cusco, HKS, etc. and think its good because of the brand name and price while receiving similar product.

Bilstein PSS-9 coilovers. Good for street driving, but the adjuster is inaccurate and thus this system is ultimately limited. Still a lot more comfortable than JDM and worth the money.

KW V3, RCE T2, etc. The standard for a track coilover that retains some street comfort. The problem with the KW V3 platform is that the high speed portion of the shock valving cannot be changed with the adjusters, which means that no matter how much you dial in the system for 99% of the time, that 1% big bump in the road will make you go crazy.

AST 4000 and 5000 series. Excellent choice for comfort and track. Race valving can be manipulated to give an amazing setup at slightly less than premium pricing.

JRZ. If you want to win, you buy JRZ, period. I didn't mention this brand before, but we're not talking about racing on a budget here, we're talking about shutting up your entire car class and the exotic owners that hate your spoiler. Cha-ching.

Ohlins. The DFV has a reliable adjuster that can properly influence both low speed and high speed valving. The problem is that the valving out of the box could use some work. The solution is to call up one of the many Ohlins revalving centers in the U.S. to fix that. Then you're on another level from nearly everyone else with quality components to back it up.

Penske. File under JRZ/serious tracking. Will crap all over everybody else since it will be custom built to your application and cost big bucks.

Koni. And finally, everyone's favorite budget shock that can be revalved to compete with anything...the Koni. Match this up to ground control springs and perches and you'll be light-years ahead of most on a budget setup.

 

Although I agree with a lot of the things you said, bear in mind that JDM != "Asian" (Chinese).

 

wtf?

 

Sam Cam's sounds like he's used everything that's available on the market...

As for your concerned, he is my realistic view of why you should not use coilovers for a DD.

1. What is the coilover giving you that the spring and shock can't? The only benefits of coilovers are adjustability, and spring rate. You mentioned the car only daily drives, so what's the benefit of rebound and dampening adjustment if you're after comfort? Coilvers are really designed with performance in mind, not so much comfort. You're like to spend $1700, set the coilover once, and never touch it again.

2. For daily driving, you're bound to go through rain, dirt, snow, etc. Coilovers, regardless of the brand, isn't meant to weather all that. Trust me, I run Ohlins for a whole year, and they started rusting. I don't care what manufacturers claim for rust prevents and salt spray test, they WILL rust. Even KW's polymer perch design has issues, and none of the race teams who use KW uses the polymer perches...even though KW markets is as being great. You, like me, will constantly have to clean. Notice there are threads asking how to care to coilovers, but never for shocks.

3. Coilovers have more moving part. More moving parts equate to higher changes of failure. All moving parts have the same chances of failure, that's why quality cost money.

4. Most manufacturers recommend rebuilding every 2-3 years depending on use because the oil breaks down, and the nitrogen needs to be refilled. Cheapest I've seen a coilover rebuilt is $100/each. That's assuming you don't need any special parts. Further more, you need to consider if there's availability from the manufacturer, or third party for rebuilding. This is why Bilstein, Ohlins, Penske, AST, and JRZ win. There are a ton of companies that service the shocks... Ohlins are like $250/ea BTW...

5. Alignments for cars with coilovers cost more. That's a general fact if you're taking the car to a performance shop.

There's a lot more, but my fingers are tired. Point is, these are the things people need to consider based on the use of their car. I have Ohlins, I daily drive my car, autox, and track. I've ran year round with my Ohlins once, and vow never again.

 

I'm saying he said JDM sucks, but then all his examples were Chinese made. Japanese products are just fine for the most part. I also agree that most of the better brands he listed are indeed better.

 

i couldn't get myself to read through the thread but....

they're called coilovers.

if you have to have coilovers then any of the cheap $1000 coilovers will do the job for DD.

if you want to save money, I'll sell you my eibach springs. they lower the car very well. not slammed but low to the point where it would look good but still be easy to drive around on the streets.

PM if interested. Given your price range, you'll be walking away with $1350 in your pocket. And it will quite possibly be a local pick up for you.