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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 08:19 AM
  #16  
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get the END LINKS!! the oem links are garbage especially when upgrading to larger sway bar.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:28 AM
  #17  
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From: Plymouth, MN
Originally Posted by EvoX-11
MAPerformance hands down has the best pricing and stupid fast shipping
Thanks for the referral!
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:41 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ChrisCarey
Thanks for the referral!
I just went online and checked them out. I will probably get the Whiteline products from them. Any idea shipping time to 92603 (Orange County CA) for the standard free shipping.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 11:43 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Uscbryan
I just went online and checked them out. I will probably get the Whiteline products from them. Any idea shipping time to 92603 (Orange County CA) for the standard free shipping.
PM them over here on the forum. They are a vendor here. So, they will hook you up with multiple part discount!

Depending the warehouse that is being shipped from it could take 2 to 5 business days. If the warehouse is in the east coast then it is more likely that your parts will spent 4-5 business days in transit since you live in west coast.

Good thing is they ship everything out the next day if not the same day.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 12:43 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by EvoX-11
I will NOT skip on the endlinks! They made a huuuuge difference, even on the street, once they are paired up with whiteline endlinks. Just install them on soft setting as whiteline endlinks are little longer (longer means stiffer)than stock endlinks and move it up if it is too soft for your liking.
aren't whiteline endlinks adjustable? they should be adjusted to have no preload... that longer/stiffer (lol) comment makes it sound like you have preload on your sway...
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by warmmilk
aren't whiteline endlinks adjustable? they should be adjusted to have no preload... that longer/stiffer (lol) comment makes it sound like you have preload on your sway...
Yea, my juvenile sense of humor was doing everything in my power not to comment on the longer/stiffer part. Now it looks like I just did. I guess a "that's what she said" may be appropriate here?
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #22  
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Thanks for referring MAPerformance. I called today and talked to Nick and he gave me some good prices. Ordering the stuff tomorrow.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 04:36 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Uscbryan
Yea I have read a lot of good things about whiteline. From my understanding of suspension, adding a heavier front sway will cause more under steer. So if I add just the back and leave the front alone maybe it goes more to over steer. Although with the computer taking over for some of that not sure exactly how it ends up. But on a normal car that's the way it should work. I am sure there is more to it than just sway bars though.

Correct, a front sway bar will increase the pressure on your outside front tire by reducing body roll. This will cause the car to push (understeer) more quickly. You can counter this by increasing the grip of the tire, your coilover set up, softer spring etc. The computer can help a little but not as much as you like. Understeer is the bane of these cars as they are already a little nose heavy and getting them to rotate is the key (for me anyway). I say skip the front sway.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:58 AM
  #24  
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A front swaybar by itself isn't the greatest idea, but paired with a rear bar and a good alignment it's a great piece to add to the system. I've never had someone tell me they regret getting a front bar for their EVO. Except when installing it, that does suck!

- Andrew
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:15 AM
  #25  
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From: SC
Originally Posted by warmmilk
aren't whiteline endlinks adjustable? they should be adjusted to have no preload... that longer/stiffer (lol) comment makes it sound like you have preload on your sway...
lol. You guys have dirty minds

What exactly do you mean by preload? Endlinks were installed and tightened when the car was on jack stands. That was not the proper way to install them?

Edit: I tried to adjust (length wise)them as close as possible to stock endlinks. However, even the shortest length on whiteline endlinks were still slightly longer than stock ones.

Last edited by EvoX-11; Mar 22, 2012 at 07:19 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:31 AM
  #26  
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With the car on the ground (or ramps) they should just line up with the swaybar holes. Meaning the bar isn't being pulled by the endlinks before the car starts to corner.

- drew
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:39 AM
  #27  
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From: SC
Originally Posted by GTWORX.com
With the car on the ground (or ramps) they should just line up with the swaybar holes. Meaning the bar isn't being pulled by the endlinks before the car starts to corner.

- drew
But as I said whiteline endlinks are little longer than stock ones. So, they wouldnt have line up with the swaybar holes even with car on the ground.

How would my handling gets effected since I set them to the shortest setting possible and install them on the car while it was on jack stands?

I mean shouldnt it be ok since I set them to stock end link length?
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by EvoX-11
But as I said whiteline endlinks are little longer than stock ones. So, they wouldnt have line up with the swaybar holes even with car on the ground.

How would my handling gets effected since I set them to the shortest setting possible and install them on the car while it was on jack stands?

I mean shouldnt it be ok since I set them to stock end link length?
The length of the endlinks does not make the bar stiffer, as long as both links are the same length. Where they connect to the bar makes the difference (inner or outer hole changes leverage). You can preload the bar by having different length endlinks at each end though. That is why they are adjustable.

On another note, I would NEVER use whiteline end links, especially if you drive the car in winter or corrosive environments. They won't even last a year before they are rusted clunky junk. You could build your own from Mcmaster Carr parts for half the price that would last twice as long.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 03:00 PM
  #29  
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Well I ordered it. I went back and forth on whether to get the roll center kit. Thought I could save a few bucks. Didn't know how big a difference it would make but then figured it wasn't that much more and they said it makes a pretty big difference.

Now I just need to find a place in Orange County, CA area that I can get to install the parts.

Thanks again everybody for the advice.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #30  
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From: East Bay
Originally Posted by Uscbryan
While on the subject and a little off subject for this forum, is there such a thing as full road course racing but just racing the clock so that you really aren't on the track trying to pass each other? I wouldn't mind something like that where if I wreck my car it's all on me and not somebody else making a mistake and hitting me.
If you are new to the track most organizations will put you in a situation where you are just learning the track and not really passing each other, ie passing will be limited so that you can only pass a car once they've give you a point by and you are on a straight. In these situations there's almost never an instance where someone else causes you to ball up your car on track.

I would suggest going with BMWCCA or Hooked on Driving as they provide good instruction and safe driving environments for those new to the track. Since both these groups always have an instructor with you in the car for the new drivers (all the other cars in your run session will be the same), there's really well control'd and safe environments.

It can be pricey at around $400 a weekend, but IMHO track experience in this car is a must, and the first performance mod one should put into the car (or yourself.)
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