Anyone object to this kit for an all stock MR that is a DD exclusively? Open to other suggestions but the price for the kit is amazing.

 

This isn't an objection, but I'm loving my (small) rally brakes from TRF when just daily driving. Less unsprung weight gives you a smoother ride. (Conversely, heavier brakes will hurt the ride.) I can't wait to swap to 16" wheels for more sidewall when just driving around ... along with the ability to cut corners safely. tee hee

 

^pics?

 

you too?

 

The rear OEM brakes will give you a problem, if you still have them on. If i remember right, the smallest they will recieve is the 17" safely.

 

Request a different fluid. I can't stand ATE Super Blue. It stains everything.

 

I do not have OE rear brakes any more, Rob. Unlike other vendors, who only have a front kit for 15" wheels, TRF has both front and rear. The bias is shifted a bit to the rear with matching pads at both ends (which I'm loving on dirt and gravel); you need to run slightly more-aggressive front pads in the front for autocross. (Right now I use -20s in the front and -10s in the rear, for example.) But given how simple it is to swap pads with Wilwoods, this adds about 1 minute to the tire-changing process.

Note to drag racers: drops 14 lbs per side in the front and 4 lbs per side in the rear and is still plenty to stop the car from any speed once. Can run some 15" wheels and any 16" wheel with these.

Edit: to be clear, however, these are not road-racing brakes. No where near enough mass in the front rotors. Don't even think about it. These are for street, gravel, autocross, and/or drag-racing. And, yes, the rotors are thick enough for people who left-foot brake when autocrossing.

Here are pics of the front and rear brakes, plus my favorite new pic of the car.

 

Interesting.. why is mass the limiting factor for the smaller rotors? Related to heat?

 

Yep. They must be able to store the heat and that requires mass. These rally rotors are thick (1.1" in the front and 0.8" in the rear), but being only 11.75" or so in diameter, they just don't have what's sometimes called the "thermal capacity" for road-racing. With that said, if you don't road-race, you've got no good reason to lug huge rotors around, do you?

 

have you autox'd with these yet?

 

I didn't go to an official event, but I set something up that was similar for testing. That's when it became clear to be that I wanted to run the -20 pads in the front, with -10s in the rear. (Luckily, I had several sets of -10s and -20s with me.) When you have grip, the bias needed to be closer to what it is stock. (Rear bias is great for low-grip, since there's less weight transfer, but not good when there is grip, especially if you LFB.) In fact, it might be better with either an even more aggressive pad in front or a slightly larger rotor (which is fine for pavement, because then I'm on 16s, not 15s), but I haven't tested this and might not this year.