Which coilover would be best for a daily driven evo x?
I would take spring rates with a grain of salt on H&R. They are usually progressive and H&R does not give out info! At all.
They are not re badged Bilstein's either. H&R uses Bilstein components and rebuilds them to their specifications.
They are not re badged Bilstein's either. H&R uses Bilstein components and rebuilds them to their specifications.
Unless something has changed dramatically, the reason why Stance coilovers ride nicely is that they have very little compression damping. Compression is almost linear on those, so, in order to avoid having too much high-speed compression, they have almost no low-speed compression at all. So, yeah, they're OK for a daily driver, but the turn-in must be awful.
Unless something has changed dramatically, the reason why Stance coilovers ride nicely is that they have very little compression damping. Compression is almost linear on those, so, in order to avoid having too much high-speed compression, they have almost no low-speed compression at all. So, yeah, they're OK for a daily driver, but the turn-in must be awful.
Their chart actually has as much "knee" as most of the Motons we've seen, which is hard to valve for. This allows the car to be nice and solid under turn in and weight transfer, then "blowout" and absorb the bumps when the piston moves over 1.0in/sec. If you want an example of super soft compression, the likes of BC and Megan "blowout" at ~.25 in/sec travel.
I will agree, yes it is somewhat linear at the first few clicks, which makes the ride very comfortable, but step up to 10 clicks and the whole dynamic changes. Much better turn in, roll resistance, and anti dive while still maintaining the large bump and curb absorbtion that the car needs for daily use. The only reason the chart doesn't have larger gaps between clicks on the compression is because this is their single way adjustable; STANCE 2- and 3-ways have huge gaps, but this is for a daily driven car, not a track car.
In the end, it all comes down to preference, available price range and what the car will be used for; and of the three choices mentioned by OP, STANCE is the best bet.
You do not need 10 clicks to feel a difference, but the dynamics of how it will react will be completely different from 1 click to 10; meaning it can be set for street when needed and easily adjusted upon arrival to a track/auto x day for optimal performance/response.
Honestly, you can genuinely feel each click, but traditionally we would recommend starting at the halfway point (8 clicks) as a base setting and making adjustments by two clicks from there until you've found what you feel is best. Then you can fine tune one click at a time up or down from there to really dial it in. Most drivers have different/varying preferences on exactly how their car should respond, making adjustments like this will allow you to find your personal sweet spot.
Honestly, you can genuinely feel each click, but traditionally we would recommend starting at the halfway point (8 clicks) as a base setting and making adjustments by two clicks from there until you've found what you feel is best. Then you can fine tune one click at a time up or down from there to really dial it in. Most drivers have different/varying preferences on exactly how their car should respond, making adjustments like this will allow you to find your personal sweet spot.
But if you drive in the winter wouldnt you want to rise the car up a little? or do people not do that?
I, personally, only change ride height for off-roading and rally-cross, not for just snowy roads. In other words, I only raise the car when I know I'll have so little grip that the change in alignment is not going to cause grief. Remember: we don't have zero bump-toe, so every change in height equals a change in alignment.
I think you misunderstood. I do not "fix" the alignment when I raise the car temporarily, which takes an additional minute at most per corner when swapping wheels. But, again, the key is that alignment (and toe in particular) isn't all that important when you have little grip. This is why, even though I would prefer to be at the higher setting most of the time and lower the car for, e.g., autocrossing, I don't do this because autocrossing with the wrong front toe is not fun and not good for the tires.
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