H&R Coilover
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From: Adelaide
H&R Coilover
Hi Guys,
Does anyone know where i can get a set of the H&R coilovers for my evo x? I live in Australia (Adelaide) so will also need postage. I cannot seem to find anyone in Australia who sell H&R for the evo x.
I really like them because they are monotube, have a helper spring, valved for the street and use the stock mounts (smoother and quiter) which for a dd sounds pretty good.
Any thoughts on these??? Thank you.
Does anyone know where i can get a set of the H&R coilovers for my evo x? I live in Australia (Adelaide) so will also need postage. I cannot seem to find anyone in Australia who sell H&R for the evo x.
I really like them because they are monotube, have a helper spring, valved for the street and use the stock mounts (smoother and quiter) which for a dd sounds pretty good.
Any thoughts on these??? Thank you.
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From: Toronto, Canada
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Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Toronto, Canada
Sorry, I don't have any practical experience with this set for the Evo but I trust H&R - they haven't failed me yet.
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I've been curious of peoples' experience with these coilovers as well. I have an MR with the Bilsteins and while my plan was to install a set of springs, I am tempted to just go with the coilovers. My friend is the Canadian distributor for H&R and I have used them on many of my cars in the past - never one single issue, even with the Porsche Supercup kit on one of my cars. I also use H&Rs on my race car and again, no issues. I don't know what the general consensus is on the set for the Evo - it's certainly not as feature rich as other kits and it doesn't include any of the camber plates / pillow ball tops like others but to your point, I find the fact that they use a standard perch to be advantageous as it will keep the noise and harshness levels down to a minimum. If I do go the coilover way, it will likely be the H&Rs - mostly because no matter what, it's hard to beat a matched set of springs and shocks plus I'll get height adjustability so I can get the exact height I want at each corner (or rather - get the rake I want).
Sorry, I don't have any practical experience with this set for the Evo but I trust H&R - they haven't failed me yet.
Sorry, I don't have any practical experience with this set for the Evo but I trust H&R - they haven't failed me yet.
Awesome thanks for the feedback, im pretty keen on the H&R's as its ticking all the right boxes for me. The only thing im concerned about is how i cant adjust the compression or rebound. Although i guess they will have it set pretty much perfect out of the box.. I hope lol.
I believe that they are valved almost perfectly for the default springs, which are 8/7. Because the rears are slightly soften than the fronts, you might want a heavier rear swaybar to go with them. As luck would have it, the rear swaybar is incredibly easy to swap on an X.
Also, keep in mind that these re-use the OE tops. If either or both of your front tops are clunking, you might want to replace those at the same time.
As to the lack of adjustability, IMO this is a plus. These are only semi-serious coilovers; they aren't for the hard-core racer. And what should a semi-serious driver be focusing on? Driving! By not being adjustable, you'll stop obsessing over whether they are adjusted correctly because there isn't a darned thing you can do about it. Same goes for camber. These don't have plates, so you flip the front bolts to get around 2*, set the rears to about 2/3 of the front, zero the toe, and just drive the bloody car.
Also, keep in mind that these re-use the OE tops. If either or both of your front tops are clunking, you might want to replace those at the same time.
As to the lack of adjustability, IMO this is a plus. These are only semi-serious coilovers; they aren't for the hard-core racer. And what should a semi-serious driver be focusing on? Driving! By not being adjustable, you'll stop obsessing over whether they are adjusted correctly because there isn't a darned thing you can do about it. Same goes for camber. These don't have plates, so you flip the front bolts to get around 2*, set the rears to about 2/3 of the front, zero the toe, and just drive the bloody car.
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From: Adelaide
I believe that they are valved almost perfectly for the default springs, which are 8/7. Because the rears are slightly soften than the fronts, you might want a heavier rear swaybar to go with them. As luck would have it, the rear swaybar is incredibly easy to swap on an X.
Also, keep in mind that these re-use the OE tops. If either or both of your front tops are clunking, you might want to replace those at the same time.
As to the lack of adjustability, IMO this is a plus. These are only semi-serious coilovers; they aren't for the hard-core racer. And what should a semi-serious driver be focusing on? Driving! By not being adjustable, you'll stop obsessing over whether they are adjusted correctly because there isn't a darned thing you can do about it. Same goes for camber. These don't have plates, so you flip the front bolts to get around 2*, set the rears to about 2/3 of the front, zero the toe, and just drive the bloody car.
Also, keep in mind that these re-use the OE tops. If either or both of your front tops are clunking, you might want to replace those at the same time.
As to the lack of adjustability, IMO this is a plus. These are only semi-serious coilovers; they aren't for the hard-core racer. And what should a semi-serious driver be focusing on? Driving! By not being adjustable, you'll stop obsessing over whether they are adjusted correctly because there isn't a darned thing you can do about it. Same goes for camber. These don't have plates, so you flip the front bolts to get around 2*, set the rears to about 2/3 of the front, zero the toe, and just drive the bloody car.
Very valid points mate! So in short, are you saying go for the H&R's??? over say some apexi's, tein's etc... I already has a whiteline 27mm rsb + perrin heavy duty endlinks at home, so hopefully this + coilovers should make it turn awesoem
Im stocking up on parts so when i pick up the new car (jan/feb) i will have everything i want for it.
Even without ever driving on them in an X (I've only seen plots) I can say with high confidence that they'll be better than Tein, Apex'i, or anything else from that part of world. I would put these in the same group as KWs, because they are digressive in bump. That's why you pay for Bilsteins and other good shocks: lots of low-speed damping and still highly digressive.
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Even without ever driving on them in an X (I've only seen plots) I can say with high confidence that they'll be better than Tein, Apex'i, or anything else from that part of world. I would put these in the same group as KWs, because they are digressive in bump. That's why you pay for Bilsteins and other good shocks: lots of low-speed damping and still highly digressive.
Yeah thats it, well you have made up my mind now and I will be getting some H&R's in due course.
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 19
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From: Toronto, Canada
I believe that they are valved almost perfectly for the default springs, which are 8/7. Because the rears are slightly soften than the fronts, you might want a heavier rear swaybar to go with them. As luck would have it, the rear swaybar is incredibly easy to swap on an X.
Also, keep in mind that these re-use the OE tops. If either or both of your front tops are clunking, you might want to replace those at the same time.
As to the lack of adjustability, IMO this is a plus. These are only semi-serious coilovers; they aren't for the hard-core racer. And what should a semi-serious driver be focusing on? Driving! By not being adjustable, you'll stop obsessing over whether they are adjusted correctly because there isn't a darned thing you can do about it. Same goes for camber. These don't have plates, so you flip the front bolts to get around 2*, set the rears to about 2/3 of the front, zero the toe, and just drive the bloody car.
Also, keep in mind that these re-use the OE tops. If either or both of your front tops are clunking, you might want to replace those at the same time.
As to the lack of adjustability, IMO this is a plus. These are only semi-serious coilovers; they aren't for the hard-core racer. And what should a semi-serious driver be focusing on? Driving! By not being adjustable, you'll stop obsessing over whether they are adjusted correctly because there isn't a darned thing you can do about it. Same goes for camber. These don't have plates, so you flip the front bolts to get around 2*, set the rears to about 2/3 of the front, zero the toe, and just drive the bloody car.