So your telling me that I shouldn't bother purchasing these unless I take my car to a professional track racer for installation? I'll put them in and figure it out. How hard is it for a normal mechanically inclined individual to tweak the settings on these? If it's only stiffness, ride height, and dampening, it shouldn't be bad. Plus, I think Ohlins gives you instructions too.

ALSO. Are there any other coilovers ($3500 or less) I should look at or just Ohlins?

Thanks

Dave

 

If the total budget is $3500, then I'd go with KW V3s with all the trimmings (see an early post in this thread). I say this because my guess is that you're going to lower the car and you should really do this without correcting the roll center. Plus, tripling the springs and leaving the swaybars stock doesn't make much sense to me at all.

 

Ended up with Ohlins. Going to Moore automotive in DC for install, alignment, and corner balancing all in one!

 

No roll-center correction?

 

def ohlins with that budget if you can swing it, or go with kw v3's for less.

edit: didn't see you went with ohlins, good call, i got kw's and I wish i would have had more for ohlins they are truly great coils.

 

For the road I did this:
FRONT: rebound- 13 (open) clicks from hardest, bump 1.25 turns
REAR: rebound -15 clicks (open) from hardest, bump 1.25 turns

I haven't auto crossed yet.

my opinion it rides better than stock

 

I hope he did if not he just wasted money..

 

Roll center kits aren't as necessary on the X as it is on VIII & IX. You can lower it a good bit on the X before it negatively impacts the front roll-centre geometry and angles to the steering arm tie rod ends and ball joints. Also the Ohlins valving (especially with springs a tad stiffer than off the shelf) increase against roll resistance and give significant reduction of suspension compression of outside front wheel during cornering through improved weight transfer distribution. It's when you buy the cheaper coilovers with bad valving and soft spring rates where you have to be concerned. The Ohlins, not so much.

Chad Block and I had this conversation before I got my Ohlins (almost 2 years ago now I think).

 

so what determines how low until you put a Roll kit?

honestly its a simple change and it should be done if you lower it period. If you are spending that much money to put an upgraded suspension, and skimp out on a simple mod such a roll center kit then why do it?

 

I completely disagree and here's why: the geometry of the front suspension on an X is almost exactly the same as the geometry of an 8 or 9.

The only reason that I can think of for a RCK being less needed on an X than on an 8 or 9 is that the AYC can make up for problems in other areas. However, I can also give you a reason why an X might need a RCK more than an 8 or 9: it's a freaking pig!

Upshot, if the rules under which you compete allow it, put a RCK on any Evo lowered by 3/4" or more. If you're low enough for the front lower LCA to angle up from chassis to knuckle, then you realy, really, really a RCK. If it still angles up after installing the kit, then you car is too low; get a Honda.

 

Completely agree.

Even if you have increased stiffness in springs to help "make up" for the roll, having a lower roll center in the front will still have a negative effect on handling. Lower roll centers will have a slower transfer rate of load. Which means that body movements will take longer to complete. This takes away from that go kart like feel.

 

I know this is a few months old. I'm starting to research coils and believe I have it down to AST and Ohlins but really leaning towards ohlins. What does the Stage 3 refer to?

I'm still trying to figure out the spring rates. Seems like Ohlins have it backwards for the Evo but either way I think I wanted to go a little firmer since I'm not worried about street comfort. Roads are pretty good where I live anyways. Mullerized is right down the street but I'd prefer to know my spring rates after dropping 3500$ so they may not be an option for me.

 

No idea what "stage 3" means...probably just a vendors own terminology.

There's only one kind of R&T coilover from Ohlins NA right now.

We use custom spring rates at 10kg/mm front and rear for most users, but can customize for anyone.

- Andrew

 

Exactly what Andrew said. Its a marketing thing. Unless its the vendor's package deal with a certain spring rate and or sway bars.

The 10kg/mm all around combo is good for the street I think. In my last autox, I was thinking maybe the 10/12 combo but it all ends up being course dependent and when it gets to being that serious, I'd get it revlaved and up it to 1,000lb springs anyways.

Ohlins doing the 10/8 combo off the shelf makes sense from their stand point being most of the weight of the car is up front and a slight tendency to understeer is safer and less liable for any complications to them. That combo again still works great if its primarily street driven. Your back seat passengers will like it better than a 10/10 or 10/12 combo lol.

 

Thanks Andrew. I have been running your springs for the last year but thinking about going to Ohlins when I get my tax return. I was thinking 10/10 or 10/12. I don't have passengers very often and hardly ever in the back. I'm not too concerned with street comfort. Ill put up with the street ride to get max performance at track days and canyon runs.