I took my stock suspension 2013 evo x mr to cmp in south carolina this weekend. I have some mild mods andtuning on the engine- running 330 tq and 290 hp so its fast but still a nice safe streetable engine.

the suspension was great but a few things were left to be desired. From my reading on here there seem to be some mods I need to make.

I use the car for a daily driver and it will attend 5 hard core TT weekends with nasa each year.

I wore off the outside third of my front left tire likely due to body roll and not enough camber. shop told me they could not adjust camber which I figured out was false. it was running -1 rear and -1 front

I still turned great times though to boot - ran 1:48;s

I think the car has 1:45 to 1:46 in it though if the suspension was solid.

I want to make some upgrades but this is mostly a daily driver so I dont want to drop a bajillion dollars in it or make it so tracked that its not really driveable on the street. looking for a balance.

what I have found so far is that i need to do the following:

coilovers - looking at the BC racing BR with 8/6 springs
sway bar front and rear - need suggestions
upgraded end links
roll center package - do i need this - is it worth it?

anything else?

combinations - spring rates etc?

your experience would be most appreciated to help me from wasting money and making mistakes.

JH

 

As far as camber not being adjusted, you can flip the camber bolt and get another whole degree.

You really don't need a front sway imo. Also, it is a huge pita to put in.

I'm running Perrin endlinks and Perrin rear sway and they are doing great.

Roll center depends on how much of a drop you're planning. If it's less than 1.3", I wouldn't worry about it.

I'm currently running revalved bilsteins + swift spec-r + Enkei RFP1 18/9.5 + Toyo R1R 265/35 + Perrin RSB on middle + Perrin Endlinks. I can kick out the *** whenever I want. Long as I'm not understeering, I'm happy.

 

All good advice above. Everything depends on how much you want to spend as the Evo benefits significantly from suspension mods.

Spring rate will depend on the type of coilover you select, tires, and some other factors (tracks, pressure, driving style, etc.

I think bump steer and RCK are good ideas.

Coilovers - Look at KW V3, Ohlins, etc as well, again, depends on what to spend. We run Robi Race KWs. 11k/12k but have a few spring options for different tires and tracks.

Rear sway and links. Keep the front sway.

Camber plates, look to KMAC or Vorshlag

Once the suspension pieces are in, get it aligned etc, the key will be to corner balance the car. It will really help pull it all together.

 

Oh yah, I forgot to mention my camber... running -2.0F -1.2R. If you get the rear too close you may experience understeer. Just my findings anyway.

Coilovers are out of my expertise, I'd listen to John on that one

 

with some more research based on your guys feedback - i have come up with the following.

stance - super sport + SSD with Swift springs. 10/12k
rear sway bar with upgraded end links.

These 3 upgrades should do most of what I want.

since I am not lowering my ride height at this point - dont need to worry about a rck etc. can always revisit this.

Final thoughts?

any reason to add a front sway bar at this point?

btw - I run continental 275/35R18 EC-DR on the track which are comparable to hoosier r6 but they are heavier duty since they were designed for challenge endurance cars

 

10/12 springs with an upgraded rear bar seems a tad too rear-biased to me.

 

Try a rear sway first, keep good tires on, and go from there. Trust me, the sway alone makes a huge difference. Most will say that adding springs or lowering with COs more than an 1" will require a RCK, I say it's required if you lower it period. I lowered an inch, my buddy did his 1/4" and we both exhibit the same characteristics of poor RC geometry, with more understeer, and reduced turn-in and rotation.

 

what would you say to overcome that? I would rather have a bit of oversteer than understeer. I am used to a high powered rear wheel drive with no computer so controlling rear drift is normal for me. I hate understeer though.

 

i am not planning on lowering the car at all. will run factory height for now since the new coilovers are fully adjustable.

 

Having a stiffer rear spring (12kg opposed to 10kg front) and then adding a stiffer rear sway bar is going to exaggerate the rear stiffness bias even more. Thus making it oversteer even more. Personally id go for a 10/10 spring with RSB + links + RCK, done.

 

If he's staying with stock ride height why would he need RCK?

 

He doesnt need it if hes staying stock height, but if you lower it more than say 20mm id think it would be necessary. Its a cheap mod that does work on lowered cars.

 

I have been curious of that. I thought it was an EVO eccintricity. all of my other cars always run stiffer springs in the front.

Why do EVOS differ on this front than others?

 

I believe this started with the CT9A (VIII and IX) because the rear wasn't as stiff chassis wise. did a lot to make the rear very stiff this time around on the CZ4A (X), there isn't as much of a need to compensate.

 

It is absolutely true that the X has a stiffer chassis. The X actually meets several standards for roll-over without a cage.

As to playing with the front vs rear roll-stiffness, I'd put the effort in to get adjustable front and rear bars and run 10/10 for smooth tracks. But I'm not really the right person to get involved in this discussion, as I'm about to go to 5/5 with no bars.