Brakes squealing really loud
I've never heard of breaking in pads this way; the recommendations for breaking mine in were completely opposite. I had to do 15 miles of stopping every 1/4 mile, starting from about 15mph and working up to 60mph. I can't say that the "hard braking" method doesn't work because i haven't tried it but my method worked for my setup (listed below) and i've been completely squeak free for almost a year.
There are a variety of ways to bed the pads. There's one general rule that I know of, which is to NOT drive around with your foot dragging on brakes to heat them up. You can do this sort of thing after bedding to get race pads up to temp, but never use this trick to bed pads.
The only other thing that might sound like a general rule is this: the target temp for bedding depends on the pads. Because of this, visiting the web-site of the maker of your pads might be a good idea. Almost all such websites have a suggested method. It could be as simple as five 60-to-10s (cheapo street pads) to more than a dozen of these, a ten-minute cool-down, and then a dozen more (serious race pads). Just be sure to do it someplace safe. You're not just trying to avoid other people; you're giving yourself room to stop if you over-do it and fade your brakes.
Oh, and this ought to go without saying, but I will: never come to a full stop with your foot on the brakes while bedding pads. That's just begging to need to Scotch-brite your rotors and start all over. edit: for that matter, never come to a full stop with your foot on the brakes when the rotors are hot, even after the pads are bedded.
The only other thing that might sound like a general rule is this: the target temp for bedding depends on the pads. Because of this, visiting the web-site of the maker of your pads might be a good idea. Almost all such websites have a suggested method. It could be as simple as five 60-to-10s (cheapo street pads) to more than a dozen of these, a ten-minute cool-down, and then a dozen more (serious race pads). Just be sure to do it someplace safe. You're not just trying to avoid other people; you're giving yourself room to stop if you over-do it and fade your brakes.
Oh, and this ought to go without saying, but I will: never come to a full stop with your foot on the brakes while bedding pads. That's just begging to need to Scotch-brite your rotors and start all over. edit: for that matter, never come to a full stop with your foot on the brakes when the rotors are hot, even after the pads are bedded.
Last edited by Iowa999; Nov 26, 2013 at 10:23 AM.
I haven't read through any of the other replies, so I'm not exactly sure what has been suggested to you yet. I recently had this issue using Hawk HPS pads. It was driving me absolutely NUTS! I spent a good $500 dollar on different pad/rotor combos to get rid of the squeaking.
What finally ended up working for me were StopTech street performance pads and stock replaced OEM rotors. You HAVE to make sure the rotors are either resurfaced or brand new, or it won't mate well when you do the bedding in process. When doing my brake job, I also put CRC brake quiet in between the shim and brake pad backing. I finished it up by putting copper anti-seize on all the places that were metal on metal.
IMPORTANT; you MUST bed the brakes, which StopTech has instructions for on their website. If I remember correctly, the process is 60 - 5 mph stops with adequate pressure. *DO NOT DRAG YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDDLE* as it'll put on an uneven layer of film. You want enough pressure to stop hard, but not so much that you activate ABS. Also, as a reminder, you want to do the stops as fast as possible, you don't want to give the brakes a chance to cool down. You may see slight smoking, this is normal. I did this about 10 times on a back road early in the morning, as there was no traffic. Then drive the car around for a good 15 - 20 minutes without applying the brakes to cool them off. I then stopped the car for about another 20 minutes to let the brakes fully cool.
I now have perfectly functioning brakes without an ounce of noise! I will admit, the Hawks had slightly better bite, but this is for my daily driver, so no noise is a lot more important to me than super optimal performance. On track days I switch them out anyways, so why does it matter? They work perfectly fine for the occasional spirited driving sprint, or emergencies anyways. They're perfect in my opinion on a daily driven car. Hope this has helped!!!
PS; I live in Utah and the weather has been getting down to around 20 degrees, and still not an ounce of noise. I'm impressed with the driveability and low noise that Stoptech offers. Just don't expect track pad performance. It's either no noise, or high performance! Can't have both unfortunately.
What finally ended up working for me were StopTech street performance pads and stock replaced OEM rotors. You HAVE to make sure the rotors are either resurfaced or brand new, or it won't mate well when you do the bedding in process. When doing my brake job, I also put CRC brake quiet in between the shim and brake pad backing. I finished it up by putting copper anti-seize on all the places that were metal on metal.
IMPORTANT; you MUST bed the brakes, which StopTech has instructions for on their website. If I remember correctly, the process is 60 - 5 mph stops with adequate pressure. *DO NOT DRAG YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDDLE* as it'll put on an uneven layer of film. You want enough pressure to stop hard, but not so much that you activate ABS. Also, as a reminder, you want to do the stops as fast as possible, you don't want to give the brakes a chance to cool down. You may see slight smoking, this is normal. I did this about 10 times on a back road early in the morning, as there was no traffic. Then drive the car around for a good 15 - 20 minutes without applying the brakes to cool them off. I then stopped the car for about another 20 minutes to let the brakes fully cool.
I now have perfectly functioning brakes without an ounce of noise! I will admit, the Hawks had slightly better bite, but this is for my daily driver, so no noise is a lot more important to me than super optimal performance. On track days I switch them out anyways, so why does it matter? They work perfectly fine for the occasional spirited driving sprint, or emergencies anyways. They're perfect in my opinion on a daily driven car. Hope this has helped!!!
PS; I live in Utah and the weather has been getting down to around 20 degrees, and still not an ounce of noise. I'm impressed with the driveability and low noise that Stoptech offers. Just don't expect track pad performance. It's either no noise, or high performance! Can't have both unfortunately.
Last edited by Lag is Free; Nov 26, 2013 at 02:42 PM.
The above often helps, but the recent cold is likely the core problem. Not much you can do about this without changing compounds or adding shims with a layer of anti-squeal. My brakes can shatter windows and kill small animals in the winter. On the bright side (assuming that you don't see broken glass and dead squirrels as enough of a good thing), I am much less likely to run over a phone-using and jay-walking undergrad on my way to or from work.
My Stock Brembo's squeak as well at low speeds ie: Going stop sign to stop sign. It is said that braking hard a few times helps it to subside, but the thinking behind that is just to heat up the pads. I'll be looking into the ET500's.
Ferodo makes the pads for Brembo. So for those wanting to stick with OEM parts, Ferodo offers the DS2500 which offer low dust, low noise, and great stopping power.
Just picked up a '12 w/ 6k miles on it. My brakes also squeal at very low speeds. Or as im about to come to a complete stop. Not really sure why either. Maybe because it has been sitting at a dealership for awhile?
My OEM set had no issue at all from 2011. After few track days, i had to say goodbye to them and put a set of HPS on this year. I bedded them 30~10mph, 45~10mph and 60~10mph, each for 6 times. Then i also did several brakes at 80+~10mph since i'd use them on track as well. I tuned both ASC and AYC assist break OFF, so at last try, i think i locked front tire lol, scary but also approved the good resylt of bedding. So it's been over 6 months of daily drive and several track events, quite at all time plus soild stopping power so far, absolutely love it =)
Good luck with ur bedding out there, be safe!
Good luck with ur bedding out there, be safe!
Last edited by odin; Dec 4, 2013 at 09:58 AM.
First, the ASC button has nothing to do with the ABS. There is no (simple) way to turn off the ABS on an Evo X.
Second, locking up a wheel is probably the worst thing that you can do when bedding pads, as it's the same as coming to a complete stop with your foot still on the brakes and very hot rotors.
Note that I am responding to what you wrote. If that isn't what you meant, don't take it out on me; take it out on your high-school English teacher.
Hm.
First, the ASC button has nothing to do with the ABS. There is no (simple) way to turn off the ABS on an Evo X.
Second, locking up a wheel is probably the worst thing that you can do when bedding pads, as it's the same as coming to a complete stop with your foot still on the brakes and very hot rotors.
Note that I am responding to what you wrote. If that isn't what you meant, don't take it out on me; take it out on your high-school English teacher.
First, the ASC button has nothing to do with the ABS. There is no (simple) way to turn off the ABS on an Evo X.
Second, locking up a wheel is probably the worst thing that you can do when bedding pads, as it's the same as coming to a complete stop with your foot still on the brakes and very hot rotors.
Note that I am responding to what you wrote. If that isn't what you meant, don't take it out on me; take it out on your high-school English teacher.
Well, as we know, in order to turn AYS assist-breaking OFF, ASC (for cutting power) will also be off anyway (holding 3+sec for off off). I meant i might lock my front wheel just for a tinny bit at the end of breaking, no biggies. Just wanna warn ppl that it could happen during pad bedding, so be prepared and be careful =)
It's weird. I had this feeling while reading your post that, while it came across as nonsense, it wasn't due to a complete lack of understanding. That's why I wrote that last paragraph.
I'm here in Chicago, have had my car for 2 weeks, only had 9800k and they make the same sound. I've just been telling myself it's the salt but I'm staring to think its something else


