Was breezing along at 70 when I had to get into the "exit only" lane.... which was crawling at about 30 mph... had to firmly apply the brakes - not stand on them, nor lock them up...but the g'dam steering wheel shuddered in my hand like Rush Limbaugh on Oxycontin withdrawal.... there's no way it could have been ABS - I've been there and done that... anyone have an idea why my car has epilepsy when I have to hit the brakes a little harder than usual?

Oh yeah, and when I floored it the other day, the SOB "coughed" and farted out black smoke. I mean, it scared the crap out of me... it literally seized up and I thought I was going to see my pistons in the rear-view.... but just a BIG hiccup and the black smoke... I have an intake, a tbe, and tinted windows - couldn't be fuel-cut, could it?

Sorry to worm two questions into one post, but there you have it. I hope Wartalon doesn't show up to tell me I'm gay or stupid or both.

This time next year, it'll have cams, a tune, some internals, and hopefully, a bigger turbo.

 

I would bet your shudder is from a warped rotor, would cause the "shudder". As for question number two, I don't know the answer.

 

the shudder is most likely from a warped rotor. same thing happened to my 98 accord sedan 5spd before. not sure aobut number 2 either lol. gluck.

 

+3 on the warped rotors. This is very common on the Evo.

I would need more info on the 2nd question before analyzing it. What rpm, what boost level, what gear? Fuel cut is when you are already at full boost, pulling hard, and then the fuel is cut completely, and it feels like you hit a brick wall.

Btw, are you running an intake without a tune?

 

I think it was the tinted windows mod... try taking the tint off and it wont sputter.
LOL

 

Have your brake rotors rotated, and if they are warped, the shop that does it should file them for you to make them smooth again. Can't remember the name of that process, tho.
And the black smoke thing could be alot of stuff...maybe some water in your oil or needs an oil change. I would get some seafoam to clean out your crankcase and fuel system. It will get out any carbon build-ups, too.
God luck, mang!!

 

I'm not really sure this is the proper advice for either situation.

 

On the first, I belive you are referring to resurfacing the rotors (turning rotors). The problem with turning the rotors is that it actually reduce your surface as it smooths. If someone does not know what they are doing, the can get the rotors out of spec (to thin). A lot of shops do this. You may want to do a little research if you find your rotors are indeed warped, as in how many times have they been "turned" before.

 

Warrtalon! You beautiful sonofa***** - I read your book! (Okay, no, I really didn't - just a Patton thing....) but thanks for the info... the wheel jiggles and juggles like frigging crazy when i hit the brakes in a timely manner, so I'd bet you're dead on with the warped rotor thing..... (something definitely ain't right)... and as for the untuned intake, you're right on that one, too - no MBC, so I sometimes spike up to about 1.5 bar, which is about 23 psi or more, which could explain the scary, farty, did I just blow my engine, black smoke thing.

Thanks, man.

When I had my 350Z I um.... drove alongside a kid with a turbo 300zx, and noted the same thing, when he did a ricer fly-by... the black smoke, that is.

Cars just shouldn't do that, unless they're TDI volkswagons, going up hills.

So I should get a tune, huh?

 

Yes, send your ECU to Al for a base Dynoflash to make your car run perfectly well until you do the cams/turbo/etc, at which point you can get a full custom road tune unless you choose a standalone or advanced piggyback to compensate for whatever turbo you choose. Btw, a Dynoflash for you would double as a boost controller, too, as it would set the boost where you want it and remove the stock taper.