how much quieter was the car with just the trunk done?

 

I felt by applying some type of sound deadening material was a big benefit. However, someone else may feel its a small difference. Depends on you & if you think your exhausr is quiet or not.

That FATFOAM install looked awesome

I used a foam carpet padding with a density rating of ~10. It cost me $20-.

I felt it was worth it. My work isnt as nice as the fat foam install, but since its covered, i didnt really mind.

I put alayer over the spare tire cavity to help suppress the sound even more



Here it is with the trunk carpet installed



good luck.

 

well, I'm about to put a BR TBE and MAF in, so i was looking to possibly deaden the exhaust sound a bit, since I've been told it's considerably louder. I also would like to hear a bit better when i'm using me ear bud headset

 

Not to be a d*ck but why do people want to buy the RS and then come on here and ask how to put in power windows/door locks, add all kinds of weight with sound deadning material. Thats the whole point of the RS its a bare bones race car. Buy the time your done adding all the stuff it doesn't come with your going to be heavier than a regular evo.
Another thing about ABS. every test done by car magazines, auto manufactures etc. cars with it stop better than the cars without. why would you not want it.?

 

sounds like you should have bought the MR. The whole point to the car being an RS, you don't like...

 

I don't understand what compelled the last 2 guys to post. You modify your car to get where you wanna be. RS owners aren't restricted from adding a radio and speakers so why would sound deading be any different. When I bought my RS it didn't get much use. Now after a career change I drive it a lot and need to be able to hear a little better when doing business by phone. I don't mean to come off like a *****, but the tone coming from the last two guys is very condascending. Contribute to the thread or f-off.

 

"Contribute to the thread or f-off"

 

using those material will make a world of difference... almost nite and day... if you apply the right amount...

for dynamat... if you double or triple the layers, it will work even better. but still you are adding a lot of weight. thats why expanding foam works best with min. weight.

 

Dynamat is much heavier than FatMat while they compare almost identically. My 100sq foot roll so far has complateled the entire trunk and the two front passenger doors and i'm perhaps 1/3" done with my product. I'm going to have a bunch left over.

ALSO... Fatmat is like 1/5th the price of dyamat and weighs much less. 100sq ft costs $99.99 of Fatmat. 23 lbs total.


And yes, i have heard a great difference. Way less road noise. Much more sold feeling doors. Less bass resonance. And the music sounds much cleaner due to me sealing off the door panels and keeping all the tunes INSIDE instead of resonating through the thin metal body panels.

I'll post more pics tomorrow after i find out which Relay i need to buy from my fluked stereo install. NONE of the AUX power sources work.

Soon i'll have most of the car done soon and photos will be posted as well as a review.

-Andrew

 

I've learned that patience is A MUST. As is the ability to resist using big pieces in any area with rounded surfaces like fenders and the tire well.. The larger the pieces you use in trunks, the crappier your install will look.

 

Ok guys.... i finished the trunk lid today except for a few tiny pieces i'll touch up in the morning. All the countours were a B*TCH to get right. I first filled the inner skeleton with minimal expanding foam insulation and after it expanded and dried i began my sound deadening work. I began with the inner skeletal sections of the trunk. covering them almost completely. The countours made things kinda hard but it went well. After that was done, i then began installing 5"x8" sections of FatMat on the inside of the skeleton all around where the trunk latching mechanism is and basically the entire rear of the trunk lid panel which contains all the factory badge logos.

I'm getting ZERO vibration and my bass is far more responsive and clear. No resonance either. I used to tap on my trunk lid and it was a high *tink* sound of what sounded like tin and now it sounds like its almost plastic. I'm also planning on fabricating a trunk lid cover with charcoal carpeting in order to cover up this shiny soud deadening material.

My next section is going to be the insides of the rear quarter panels and then the rear fenders. Afterward i'm going to rip out the rear deck and get to work on that. I plan on working from inside the cabiin of the car and after taking the deck off, lay down a good layer of Fatmat, maybe double thick but also make sure i can figure out a way to port the trunks pressure into the passenger cabin. On top of that Fatmat, i'll be putting a sheet of 1/2" foam insulation to keep any additional threats of resonance, rattles, or vibration to a minimum.

This process is time consuming on a car i've never dismantled. But the results thus far are FAR FAR worth it. I've yet to even use up ONE of the 50sq ft rolls and i've done two doors, almost the entire trunk, and the trunk lid. I'll have enough on this roll to do the deck, rear doors, and perhaps my rear fenders or under the rear seat.

That means i'll have another 50sq feet of FatMat to find a home for. I was talking to a guy at Huntington Beach Mitsubishi who had a modded EVO and he does professional audio installs. He said the biggest gains in terms of killing road noise and improving sonic clarity is to drop the head liner and apply a full layer on all exposed metal since that big piece of metal tends to resonate like crazy. I may also get crazy enough to do my front fenders and perhaps the floor boards in the front of the car.

Here is my progress from today, aside from an oil change i did yesterday with Royal Purple 10w30 Synthetic and my bada$$ mod to the front underbody panel which allows you to access the jack point without taking out a dozen or so screws just to get the panel off. I only have to use two screws and its easily accessable..

Day 1:
Day 2:

And to see my front access panel modification to get to the central jack point (perfect for oil changes and other maintenence) and cuts off lots of time to get your car airborne when you gotta work on it.

go here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=195947


http://www.kalionzes.com/

 

Hey Andrew,

I noticed on your website that you used to own an audi? Im thinking of making the same move... do you have any regrets?

thanks for the info and writeup about the fatmats. Im defenitely doing this when I get my EVO.

 

i ride in my buddies 05 RS all the time and theres no difference in sound when driving compared to my 05 "gsr". The only time i can tell a difference is if we drive over some sand/dirt on the road, you can here the sand/dirt hitting of the bottom of the car alot more.

 

Yeah. I used to have a 2001.5 Audi A4 with a ton of mods on it but unfortunately its life came to an abrupt end when a drunk driver hit me head on this past january.

http://www.kalionzes.com/audios/1.jpg

While I wanted to get a new Audi because i love their interior designs, ergonomics, styling, and luxurious features. But.... they didn't have the power I was wanting and the new A4 is very expensive and the S4 is like $50k.

The EVO is just an entirely different type of car. Far faster, stiffer riding, less luxurious, and the fit and finish just isn't up to par with Audi's.

I love my EVO though. I've had it for about 7 weeks and while i've yet to get into performance mods, i've been spending money on the sound system and making it a little more luxurious by adding sound deadening material to all the body panels i can find. Road noise is considerably reduced and it just feels more solid even though i've only used about 50sq ft of FatMat.... which only added about 12lbs to the cars weight. I bought 100sq ft for $100 and am going to start using the second roll soon (you get two 50sq ft rolls) to finish up the rear doors, floor boards, and under the rear seat. I'm also considering dropping the head liner and doing the roof. A guy i met at Huntington Beach Mitsubishi is in the car audio business and he said the biggest difference of any panel he added sound reduction material to was the roof.

I'll post up some pics when i start tearing out more panels to finish up the last few sections.

 

How much does that cost ? IS it glued on or one side is sticky?