Take this thread for example:

Obviously he is not tapering boost.
So if he can do it at 30+psi, why can't people do it at stock boost levels.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=223196

 

Notice how he said, "37 psi of peak boost." The odds are that his boost tapers slightly, as well. I'm no expert. Search is your friend.

 

GO to WORKS they control boost taper through the factory ECU and their own Boost Hose Assembly they designed themselve's.

 

Mitsubishi has these little brass pill installed in the actuator line. You can find it in the tube coming off of the factory boost solinoid.
Its to slow the boost responce down and keep from over spiking which can more noticable as the weather changes. over spiking can cause detonation which is an engines nightmare!

As for flashing.....far from generic!
Try lots of seat time and tuning many different evos, as well as DSM's. John is well know around here.
Scott from TTP is another tuner that knows how to tune evos.
If you had two evos, one with a tuned flash, one with your "standalone".
And they were both had simple mods, stock turbo.
The flashed evo would run just as good ad that standalone, and for much less.
But as far as upgraded turbo and going for broke....AEM of course! Without a doubt.
You would be surprised with what these two guys can do with just an ECU flash.
I wouldnt recommend doing it yourself. There are quite a few tricks these guys are using to keep there flashes on top!!

BTW. I have a JESTR custom ECU flash, and I love it.
My 05 evo put down 389 HP and 376 TQ at the wheels thanks to JESTR tuning ecu flash.

 

A boost spike is progammed into the factory ECU to coincide with the MIVEC torque curve to enhance midrange power on the 9's. The boost taper is necessary to avoid potentially dangerous overboost conditions as engine revs keep climbing. This safeguard is especially important in the lower gears where an overboost condition can happen in a split second. The factory probably figured that if I , your humble servant, ever got a hold of a new IX, I would for sure grenade it in first gear.

Now you can easily get around these built in safeguards by taking the BCS out of the loop and installing an electronic or the simple manual boost controller. At the same time it is nice to get your ECU flashed to optimize the fuel and timing parameters.

If a flash doesn't do it for you then the ECUFLASH(or is it Ecuplus?) you mention seems like a good option. Now, the ECUFLASH is a relatively new toy as far as Evos go. I went on their forum and these guys are still trying to figure out how to best control boost. I recommend that you research the boost control issue on that subforum. It may be the way you wanna go.

I myself prefer a piggyback or a flash and to control boost the old fashioned way with a knob. Good Luck and welcome aboard EvoM. Show us some pics of your IS300's engine bay, please.

 

If you look at his dyno, it doesn't seem that way.


Thanks for the tip. I will check that out.


Thanks for the tip about the actuator line. I have to look into that.

I don't know if you've ever tuned yourself. If you have ever tried to tune different cars and looked at the wideband readings across similar setups I don't know that you would hold the same opinion that you do. Tuning is very car-specific. If you're out of the AF range you depend heavily upon the abilities of your car's knock detection and retard system. My guess is that generic maps play it extremely safe.


I use a blitz SBC ID v3 on my IS300. I love the thing. The problem is that it needs "tuning" or "setting" so that it will work correctly allowing good spool time and no overboost or creep. And this changes with modifications done to the car. So to make it simple, I was hoping of just flashing the stock ECU to control the stock BCS to be at a stable pressure.

Here is what I'm thinking will control the stock BCS and prevent taper. Looks pretty simple.


Here is a pic of my engine bay. It was the biggest ***** to convert this thing from auto to a manual. Never doing that again.
Specs are:
2JZGTE internals in a 2JZGE block, Stock 2JZGE head with portmatched intake and polished exhaust ports, HKS 264's, fidanza gears, GT4088R with a .95 or .96 hotside (don't remember which one it is), 3" IC piping, 90mm Q45 Throttle body and a custom intake manifold will be made once i get some money to do it. The transmission is a Getrag 6 speed out of the Supra TT..

Controlled by a Haltech E6X, using their ignitor, 850CC injectors, a dual walbro 255 fuel pump on a modified rail with 2 feeds and a single return. I'm running a J&S safeguard for knock retard and planning on running meth/alky once I have the thing up and running.

My old setup was 440's and a small T04E 60 trim turbo and I made 389rwhp at 1 bar with an automatic tranny, stock block, stock head. I plan on making mid 500's on pump. With the meth/alky, hopefully 600's on pump. No real plans to ever use race gas. I like my 02 sensors the way they are.

There are more pics in that directory. At the time I was trying to finger out how to fit the turbo and clear the hood.


I'm running a 4" exhaust

 

Ideally you'd want to be able to set a different boost level in each gear, especially on pump gas. From what I gather there isn't yet a consensus among the ECUFLASH users/tuners on how best to achieve gear specific boost control yet.

Also, it seems doubtful that the factory BCS offers the level of control required. The Perrin replacement BCS is being considered as an alternative to the factory unit.

I agree that for someone like yourself with tuning experience, a tool like the ECUFLASH is preferable to a generic flash. And why should you be paying someone to retweak your custom flash every time you add a new mod to your car.

Good luck, and thanks for the pics of your Blue car. Very nice