Head stud on factory sealed motor with 35r?
Head stud on factory sealed motor with 35r?
Hey guys,
i just ordered a 35r kit from buschur and was wondering if i really need upgraded head studs. I'm running stock cams on a IX and the motors never been opened. I have all the basics for the kit, exhaust, walbro, 880, fmic etc... i shooting for a conservative 500 (dynojet #'s)
i've been roaming the forums for a while now and know a while ago everyone was saying how important they are, and now it seems no one's getting them because they tend to cause more problems, or theyre just over kill for most setups.
Remember i am on a factory sealed motor, i really dont think that if i open the motor and check the head studs it's going to be stronger than the way mitsubishi has assembled the motor.
Thank you guys!
i just ordered a 35r kit from buschur and was wondering if i really need upgraded head studs. I'm running stock cams on a IX and the motors never been opened. I have all the basics for the kit, exhaust, walbro, 880, fmic etc... i shooting for a conservative 500 (dynojet #'s)
i've been roaming the forums for a while now and know a while ago everyone was saying how important they are, and now it seems no one's getting them because they tend to cause more problems, or theyre just over kill for most setups.
Remember i am on a factory sealed motor, i really dont think that if i open the motor and check the head studs it's going to be stronger than the way mitsubishi has assembled the motor.
Thank you guys!
You may get differing opinions depending on who you talk to. For your HP goals, I'd say absolutely get them. Remember, the reason people change them to begin with is because factory headbolts have been known to stretch in high hp applications.
Do you absolutely have to change them? No. If you're fairly conservative, you may never have a problem. If anything, they're just extra insurance against failure.
Do you absolutely have to change them? No. If you're fairly conservative, you may never have a problem. If anything, they're just extra insurance against failure.
From my understanding thats the case once you open the motor to change, lets say cams. The seal may not be as good.
But for a motor that hasn't been touched is it really necessary?
I plan on purchasing some cams, but it won't be for a few months. I'm not convinced which would be the better way to go GSC S2's or Cosworth...
Thanks!
But for a motor that hasn't been touched is it really necessary?
I plan on purchasing some cams, but it won't be for a few months. I'm not convinced which would be the better way to go GSC S2's or Cosworth...
Thanks!
I've never heard anything like that before at all. Opening the valve cover and removing/swapping the cams have no effect on the headbolts at all. Only things that effects the headbolts are pressure, heat, and physical torque.
its just seems like so much work and very complicated...
I might just have a shop do it....
I've done the installs for everything else on the car, but messing with the actual motor just makes me a little nervous
I might just have a shop do it....
I've done the installs for everything else on the car, but messing with the actual motor just makes me a little nervous
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I had CBRD put mine in when they put my S1's in. I'm running basically stock boost on stock turbo. For an 1 hour labor and a $100 part, I figure rather be safe than sorry. Never know when if your going to need them or not.
Jason
Cosworth M2 and the new GSC cams are both really great cams. You cant go wrong either way. I've heard that if you like a really FAT midrange to pickup the XS Engineering Racemax 272 cams with springs and some ti retainers. Thats just what I've heard so don't take my word for it. A good midrange would be great for a street vehicle.
I think if studs are done right they are a good upgrade for high boost. I think when you hear about issues with them it comes from improper installation and or not re-torquing them.
The one by method is not the proper way to install but, that is what a lot of shops will do to save time. In my opinion I would say you are getting close to the point where I would want the head studs. I prefer to err on the side of caution.
The one by method is not the proper way to install but, that is what a lot of shops will do to save time. In my opinion I would say you are getting close to the point where I would want the head studs. I prefer to err on the side of caution.








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