I know that nitrous has been a taboo topic on these forums, but those who actually use it have reportedly said that they have not had issues with it. I have done a search, and it seems all the threads have instantly gone offtopic and people just saying your gonna blow up your engine (without actually ever using it)

I'm going to buy a wet system for 50 shot and maybe later for a 75, with the blanket, purge, and window switch. Our cars can handle a 50-75 shots..

For those who use and have used nitrous on their Evo's:

1. What kit do you recommend? I heard NX is good as well as Zex (with there computer controlled module)

2. Do i need a tune with a 50 or 75 shot?
a. Who's a good tuner for nitrous? And please don't say Dynoflash, i read one of his replies saying that he would tune for nitrous but would also laugh his *** off if the guy blows his engine up.

3. Has anyone ever had an issue with using nitrous (and please just the ones that have used it)

4. How does the window switch operate, while using the two step the rpms are at 6k already and the window allows the n2o to kick in between certain rpms, wouldn't the nitrous just be pooling up during that time?


Thanks..

 

can you provide us the list of your power mods?

 

i wanna know 2

 

1. ZEX hands down
2. No tune for a 50 shot, some for a 75 in some cases...all depends on mods though, I am referring to stock turbo...
3. blown tcase, tranny and hurting motor after about 15 bottles through in a season and relentless abuse...
4. for using nitrous off the launch i suggest getting a wot switch, wiring it backwards on your shifter allowing nitrous to be off while in first gear and as soon as you switch to second it will kick in...

 

Love the spirit . I don't have nos, but love the way you're set. Just out of curiousity what are your plans, basicly what do you plan on doing with your car? Drag, track?

 

Sorry bout that... they're in my sig now..

Thanks! I plan this setup for drag only, i track my car occasionally (meaning once or twice in the summer, which is not much, just when i get a chance) but i do drag it almost every weekend or two when the tracks are open.

I've always strayed away from Zex because of their "ricer" approach, they sell fake purge kits and stuff, so i thought any respectable company wouldn't do such a thing, though there computer system does sound good, plus they're more expensive.. i gotta give it a try though, thanks Ultimate CC..

 

So you have Dynoflash tune, but don't want him to do anything with your next tune? Wow, so many people are not satisfied, makes me even more glad that I decided not to get tuned by him

 

No don't get me wrong, i didn't mean that i was unsatisfied by his tune. When my car was tuned, i was happy with the results (well, it was my first tune and i did notice a gain) But his attitude towards customers and his customer service needs too much of an improvement. It comes to a point where customer service out weighs your benefits. Not to rag on Buschur either, but they did give a lot of **** for my megan exhaust. If i'm paying good money for a service (when i was there), i want to be treated well and informed.

Just that when i read that post of his in the Dynoflash forum regarding tuning for nitrous, is what put me off. If a tuner says he will tune a car, but then laugh at you if you blow your car up, he's either not a good tuner, or doesn't care about his customers' cars well being.

I have seen Procco's car, and they seem to be experienced with nitrous tuning, though they're too far away from me (Chicago)..

I want a tuner who is experienced in tuning Evo's with nitrous.

Ultimate CC, so if i wire the wot switch backwards, instead of kicking in 1st gear, it will start spraying in 2nd and up? I though if you reverse it, it would cause a problem cause instead of 1-2-3-4-5, it would go 2-1 end.

What about the issues of continous spray under 4k? last thing i need is a nitrous backfire =) (thats what i liked about window switches, you could adjust it to start from 3800 to 6800)

 

When I run Nitrous systems, I run every safety I can. window switches, WOT switches, keyed master switch, fuel pressure switch, bottle blow down tube, and a hobbs switch.

I launch, shift to 2nd, flip on the arm switch, and let the safetys take it from there.

here are my conditions (for my last car's setup)

all these must be met for it to spray:
Master switch must be armed
arm switch must be on
RPMs must be above 3500, below 7000 (window switch)
vehicle must be in closed loop (WOT condition met)
boost pressure must be below 25lbs boost (hobbs switch)
fuel pressure must be greater than 43psi (fuel pressure switch)

I am a fan of NX's systems. their nozzles are the best in the industry as far as atomization, and they have great customer service.

 

TempeRacerGuy, I think you meant "vehicle must be in OPEN loop"?

Evosaurus, before you do anything, you should get rid of the Typhoon (mainly the MAF pipe). After that, run whatever N20 you want, but just be careful and vigilant. People pop motors all the time on N20, but if you take every precaution and make no mistakes, you might be able to spray for quite a while.

 

Thanks for the advice TemperRacerGuy, i wasn't planning on using all the other safety add ons, but i'm definetly going to check them out and see what can suit me.

Warrtalon, thanks for the advice, after reading all the reviews on Typhoon i did get rid of the MAF pipe, i'm just running the cone filter than came with it for now.

 

If you are in chicago why not try Adam at devo tuneing or AMS?

 

you won't have an issue of spraying below 4k if you set it up to keep it out of first as soon as you shift second you will never be below 4800 again...

 

Make sure you get your fuel jetting right. Too rich and it get boggy. Too lean and bad stuff happens. I forgot what jets I used but when I ran a 50 shot it made 73whp and ran seemlessly. Then I went 75 shot and it wasn't dialed in and would buck when it kicked in. It also stretched my headbolts and popped out my freezeplugs at altitude but you have studs so no need to worry

Mine was set up with arming switch, rocker switch on the throttle body for WOT and momentary push-button for spray.

Good luck and have fun!

 

TempRacerGuy,
I like your setup a lot. I build my stuff the same way. Lots of safety built in. I use a hobbs switch for my meth failsafe, but now you got me thinking about another one for overboost condions on the juice. Nice job.

Evosaurus, Take a lesson from Temperacerguy. He really thought this out and did it right. Also you may want to give some thought to fuelling beyond the fact that it is a wet kit. For example. I run a Utec. So I have a seperate n20 map. I intenionally run a smaller than recommended fuel jet and I add a lot of the fuel needed via the injectors. This way you do not have to worry about the fuel being distributed evenly to each cylinder which is always a concern when you are running a nozzle before the throttle body as opposed to 1 nozzle in each runner. You are also going to need a bottle warmer. Forget spraying in 1st gear. What I am doing is using a Greddy wireless switch that mounts on the wheel. Once I am in second I hit the switch which arms the system and the "window swith" takes it from there. I actually do not have a window switch per se. I use the spare soleniod feature in the utec to control the window that I spary. Make sure that the top end of that window is set quite a bit under your rev limiter. You do not want to put it on the rev limiter when spraying. If anyone is interested in hiding the n20, plese PM me. Most people could never tell that I have nitrous even if they open the trunk and yes I run a full sized bottle.