I searched but couldn't find exactly what I needed. . I'm about to change my differential, transfer case, and tranny fluid. .
a few questions:
1. How much fluid is required to put into each one?
2. I will be using Diaqueen for the tc and dif., but what should I use for the tranny? (I have new synchros)
3. And finally, what do you use to squirt the new fluid into there. And where do I buy it


Thanks guys!!!!

 

Buddy this has been covered a million times. Please do a search. I will start you with this and you can go from there.


http://evomoto.com/index_tech.php?tP...bf8fa3ce46c996

 

1. 3 quarts for trans, .65 qt for t-case, and .6 qt for rear diff

2. Use Redline MT-90 for the transmission

3. Go buy a 'suction gun' from Autozone or pepboys and use that.

 

Thanks Rok Evo!!

 

I would only use the OEM fuild.

Mitsu used it for a reason.

Plus, considering you said you just got new synchros and its an 03, I would only use OEM.

 

or BG II for the tranny, or Redline shockproof lightweight. NOTHING ELSE

 

what is the oem tranny fluid called? is that the best to use for the tranny?

 

OEM is super diaqueen and can be used in 5 or 6 speed. Regardless of which fluid you use you will have mixed opinions. Search and you shall find.

 

I have done a few driveline fluid changes in my 03. I've been using the OEM Diaqueen in the TC and diff, BG Synchroshift II in the transmission. A good tool to use is a hand-powered fluid transfer pump. HarborFrieght has a pretty good cheap one (~$10). I've tried the "suction gun" thing. They can be pretty messy. The transfer pump is easier to use.

 

it's called diaqueen super multi gear. it's for the MR specifically, but is the proper weight for the 5-speed as well since the 5 speed can use 75-85 or 75-90 GL-4. but i have heard reports of smoother shifting in the 5-speed by using this lighter fluid.

 

Anybody have a jug of diaqueen they wanna sell? lol the cheapest ive been able to find is 67$ shipped (for the 4 gallon)

 

This info is straight from TRE. Besides Shep, nobody deals with more Evo drivetrain components and this should be considered gospel or straight from the horses mouth:

Well maybe it's about time I offer up some more input regarding what "TRE" recommends....


RECOMMENDED TRANSMISSION OIL FOR THE MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION

TRE recommends using GL-4 spec transmission oil in the Mitsubishi EVOLUTION 5 SPEED manual transmissions. This oil offers proper protection for the gears and bearings against wear out. If you have 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION in your EVO, read your owners manual to discover what Mitsubishi specifies….or read every single thread regarding which oil to use and then make up your own mind.

Redline MTL or MT-90 have proven themselves as a good oil for those who want to shift fast, yet are also looking for long service life from their transmission. I harbor concerns about using Redline Shockproof oil inside manual transmissions. It has been found that the heavy paraffin particles that are in the Redline Shockproof oil are quickly centrifuged out of the oil, building up inside of critical areas in the transmission. After several oil changes, using SHOCKPROOF, this build up may block of the oiling passages inside the gearshafts that lubricate the needle bearings, therefore we do not suggest using Shockproof in the transmission. I have heard of many reports that this is the magic oil to use, maybe it is, but I have genuine concern about paraffin build-up over long term use and only time will tell if this a legitimate issue.

However, REDLINE SHOCKPROOF HEAVY does seem to work very well in the transfer case. The Muellerized/Jordan EVO is probably the most road raced EVO in the states and they are still using the same transfer case and it is filled with REDLINE SHOCKPROOF….and receives proper oil change intervals. If you road race, inspect the oils after every race and change the oils if they are discolored or smell bad. If it offers race car performance, it requires race car maintenance.

A word about Synchromesh/shift type oils. It has been found that the Synchromesh/shift type oils can improve the effectiveness of the synchronizers, allowing for faster shifts at higher rpms. However, this oil may not have enough film strength to ensure the longest gear and bearing life in a high engine torque application. If you are not making more than 350ft.lbs and concerned only with shifting fast at high rpms you may want to use the “Synchromesh /shift” type oils but change it much more frequently. DO NOT USE Synchromesh/shift type oils in the transfer case or rear end because this oil doesn’t have the correct film strength to adequately lubricate hypoid gears. Again, read every single thread regarding which oil to use and then make up your own mind.

A short word about transmission gears. Transmission gears are exceptionally hard and generally have a hardness of 58-62HRC. It is because of their hardness they take quite a while to fully bed-in together before ultimate power handling capabilities can be obtained. Transmission gears can take as many as 5,000 miles to fully wear themselves in allowing for full contact and the most strength. It is wise to let the transmission gears bed-in before pushing the gears to their material limits. Generally I see wear on 3rd & 4th gears above the DPC of the gear and this in an indication that the teeth are being overloaded with torque… so choose your clutch wisely and understand that your fancy no-lift shifts will shorten the life of various parts.

A word about synchronizers. By design, synchronizers will block the driver from completing their shift into any gear, and for that matter, even shifting into a gear in the first place if the speed of the clutch disc, input shaft & various other components doesn’t match the speed of the gear they are shifting into. It is crucial that your clutch is operating properly, with sufficient release to allow the clutch disc, input shaft & various other components to be “free” of the engine’s rotating speed thus allowing them to slow down and match the speed of the gear you are shifting into. The synchro is NOT designed or capable of dealing with a clutch that doesn’t have enough release. If you are having trouble getting into any gears while the car is running or are experiencing blocking or “notchy” shifting; you must check your clutch to make sure that you have it properly adjusted or you will cause damage to the synchronizers and ultimately to lots of parts. It is sole responsibility of the driver or installer to make sure that the clutch is properly adjusted so that is has sufficient release to allow the synchros to do their job without the clutch disc dragging on the flywheel/pressure plate assembly or poor shift quality and premature synchro failure will occur.

Well there is my input on this subject; take it or leave it and sorry if I might have highjacked this thread.

Thanks for the space.

Jon@TRE

 

You don't need friggin "diaqueer."

Manual Transaxle - Penzoil Synchomesh
TC - RedLine "heavy duty" Shockproof
Rear Diff - Mobil 1 sae 90 ($8.88)

 

Just to let you know there are a lot of OEM

My Recipe included:

Motor: 5 quarts Redline Full Synthetic 10W30
Tranny: 3 quarts Redline Light Weight Shockproof
Rear Diff: 1 quart Redline Heavy Shockproof w/1.0 ounce of Redline LSD Additive
Transfer Case: 1 quart Redline Heavy Shockproof

The drivetrain feels really smooth and it eliminated a lot of decel noise and other misc drivetrain noise.

You hear of Redline horror stories because people use the wrong fluids in the wrong places. I've used Redline since the day I got my car with no problems. I had my transfer case replaced at 32k but not because of fluid issues.

AMS and Shep recommended Redline to me so that's what I use

 

shep recommends diaqueen LSD for the transercase. Unless that's changed from three weeks ago.

My transfercase had a tag saying 'diaqueen lsd only' from shep !