Hi guy, I'm not mike but just a friend of his using his ID to post here.

He mentioned that some of you guys are having trouble with the AEM true boost setup and asked if I would post here. it's very easy to use once you know how it works.

-Stock wastegate solenoid is removed from the system, but must remain hooked in electronically to prevent a CEL. loop some line between the fitting to keep crap out.

-#1 screwup is that the AEM solenoid is not installed correctly, with the boost lines hooked up in the proper orientation to your wastegate and signal line. this is very important. Double check your connections.

-The A/B setting on the gauge are not actual boost settings, but rather a duty cycle of how the controller operates the bleed solenoid.(boost bleed off). It's really a trial by error, but start at 50 and make a quick pull and adjust the settings from there. for a rough idea, if your WG spring is a 20psi unit and you bleed of 50% of the air going to it, it will see about 27-30psi, pending OAT and altitude of your area((20psi x .5DC = 10psi). Again this is a rough estimate and will vary car to car and area to area.

-#2 biggest mistake is people forget to actually activate the boost setting they just set. Be sure to due that as well. A i usually set for warm weather and B I'll set 15% lower or so for a colder climate due to the denser air charge...at least we have that here in NY


For those guys with the o2 housings/full catbacks/testpipes having boost creep and spiking issues, back off the wastegate tension preload to the lowest setting you can on the actuator arm itself and still maintain a little bit of spring pressure. This helps very well for guys in colder climates, such as us here in upstate NY.

 

What do you have your GAE or sprint pressure setup at. If your creeping you probably have it set too high. This is the pressure that your WG spring will start to release air. Basically it's wide open at 11.5-12psi but it cracks earlier than that. If it's set too low you will have excessive lag, no spike. If it's set too high you will have a spike and possible creep. Try 7.3-11.0 for GAE or crack pressue. The proper method is to slowly raise it until your boost increases with the same duty setting.

My current settings are duty A62, GAE or spring 11.0.. this equals 23psi spike to 21-22psi.. and at 7500 you have turbo taper that is basically unavoidable.

Don't unplug the stock solenoid.. you will get a CEL. Instead block off the line that went to the T down by your turbo so that the system is sealed.

Proper setup is as follows.. Basically you eliminate the stock bcs, but leave it in place because the ECU checks to see if it's functioning. The middle outlet on the AEM should go to your turbo nipple, the other one to yoru WG, and the muffler in the 3rd one.

You can press and hold the right button to see your PEAK boost.. this will be considerably higher than what you see on the gauge during a pull and may be why your hitting fuel cut. I have my gauge T'd off of the line from the manifold to the stock diverter valve (gauge operation).