Evo Reliability
I had an S2000 and now and Evo. While the Evo has more power and is capable of making even more with bolt ons, you cannot drive it like an S2000.
I used to bounce my S2000 off of the 9K Limiter all day long. No issues what so ever. Not even a clutch. I drove it hard. My first Evo motor lasted 45000 miles (rod knock), the second 25000 miles (rod knock), and the third a little over 3500 miles (rod knock).
Plus the S2000 + 2" drop + Work Meister S1 3PC = OMG
Needless to say, I wish I still had my S2000. I'll trade you if youd like
I used to bounce my S2000 off of the 9K Limiter all day long. No issues what so ever. Not even a clutch. I drove it hard. My first Evo motor lasted 45000 miles (rod knock), the second 25000 miles (rod knock), and the third a little over 3500 miles (rod knock).
Plus the S2000 + 2" drop + Work Meister S1 3PC = OMG
Needless to say, I wish I still had my S2000. I'll trade you if youd like
Just being honest buddy. You will see countless threads of "I made XXX hp at XX boost. You will not see many threads of individuals blowing engines. People tend not to share the bad news...
Granted, if you perform regular maintanence on your Evo, Drive normally, and keep your boost in check, you will increase the likelyhood of you motor lasting a while.
My first two Rod Knocks were due to low oil (I assume). I check my oil regularly, but some how it would just dissapear. My third motor had less than 3500 miles on it. Oil was changed the week before.. I have no clue as to why Rod Knock happened in this case..
Nice thing about Honda is if oil pressure is low, you will know before you can do any damage. Vtec will not engage. I liked that safe guard. Even with an Oil Pressure guage, I couldnt save my last Evo motor.
Anyways, You gotta pay to play. Just understand that a Mitsubishi is no Honda...
Later...
Granted, if you perform regular maintanence on your Evo, Drive normally, and keep your boost in check, you will increase the likelyhood of you motor lasting a while.
My first two Rod Knocks were due to low oil (I assume). I check my oil regularly, but some how it would just dissapear. My third motor had less than 3500 miles on it. Oil was changed the week before.. I have no clue as to why Rod Knock happened in this case..
Nice thing about Honda is if oil pressure is low, you will know before you can do any damage. Vtec will not engage. I liked that safe guard. Even with an Oil Pressure guage, I couldnt save my last Evo motor.
Anyways, You gotta pay to play. Just understand that a Mitsubishi is no Honda...
Later...
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I had an S2000 and now and Evo. While the Evo has more power and is capable of making even more with bolt ons, you cannot drive it like an S2000.
I used to bounce my S2000 off of the 9K Limiter all day long. No issues what so ever. Not even a clutch. I drove it hard. My first Evo motor lasted 45000 miles (rod knock), the second 25000 miles (rod knock), and the third a little over 3500 miles (rod knock).
Plus the S2000 + 2" drop + Work Meister S1 3PC = OMG
Needless to say, I wish I still had my S2000. I'll trade you if youd like
I used to bounce my S2000 off of the 9K Limiter all day long. No issues what so ever. Not even a clutch. I drove it hard. My first Evo motor lasted 45000 miles (rod knock), the second 25000 miles (rod knock), and the third a little over 3500 miles (rod knock).
Plus the S2000 + 2" drop + Work Meister S1 3PC = OMG
Needless to say, I wish I still had my S2000. I'll trade you if youd like
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
In MI ?!?
http://www.mievo.net/talk/index.php
Some local cars for sale too ^
I dont drive my Evo anymore - got a winter beater. But I did drive her for 3 winters. Only "problems" that I have had are do to racing - nature of the beast. Overall great car though!
http://www.mievo.net/talk/index.php
Some local cars for sale too ^
I dont drive my Evo anymore - got a winter beater. But I did drive her for 3 winters. Only "problems" that I have had are do to racing - nature of the beast. Overall great car though!
I wish I new so I could prevent it. All of my motors were lost to rod knock. The assumption is always low oil pressure. I admit i was careless with the oil level in my first motor. Paid more attention to the second. I checked the 3rd every day. The 3rd motor only had 3500 miles on it and didnt see much boost. All I know is I am done with 2.3's...
First motor stock. After that, had no choice other than to build. At that time, 2.3 was considered the way to go.
I understand that my setup is a bit "extreme" so others may not have the same issue depending on hp level. Just understand once again, this is no Honda...
I understand that my setup is a bit "extreme" so others may not have the same issue depending on hp level. Just understand once again, this is no Honda...
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 594
Likes: 0
From: Hong Kong
I come from AP1/AP2 to CT9A as well. Theorhetically EVO has no chance on s2k for reliability. Not only it is Honda vs Mitsubishi, but a smaller and lighter car, simpler drivetrain, simpler powertrain, much less torque (less abuse on your car), much less things to add oil and maintain.
If you get rid of the s2k, you will definately miss top down, the shifter and clutch, rear end swinging fun and low seating position. However, you are greeted with new type of fun: hard cornering is very forgiving, insane power from exiting a turn, much more youthful look with some attitude (s2k has more of a lonewolf personality). Also now you don't need to worry about whether to have passenger or not, or to fill half tank or quarter tank. Even with three passengers and full tank of gas, EVO will just pull at any moment.
If you get rid of the s2k, you will definately miss top down, the shifter and clutch, rear end swinging fun and low seating position. However, you are greeted with new type of fun: hard cornering is very forgiving, insane power from exiting a turn, much more youthful look with some attitude (s2k has more of a lonewolf personality). Also now you don't need to worry about whether to have passenger or not, or to fill half tank or quarter tank. Even with three passengers and full tank of gas, EVO will just pull at any moment.
50k miles pently of spirited driving stock clutch and no problems... I'm not sure how some of your kids are destroying your engines but its sure entertaining at least to me. I do have a couple comments however...
First off if a motor makes no torque your not going to rip apart your drivetrain there is a big difference between 170ft/lbs @ 68000 rpm and 289ft/lbs of torque @ 3500 rpm. If you do the math the evo at 5500rpm over 1 second puts around 1200 ft/lbs of instantaneous torque on the driveline assuming most of the energy is spent trying to turn the wheels.
Secondly the more horsepower you make the more picky your engine is going to be about those "small" issues like oil being low, running a bad tank of gas, or even revving it up to redline and dropping the clutch...
There is an ancient drag racing mantra that goes, "If your not breaking parts your not going fast enough" nuff said.
First off if a motor makes no torque your not going to rip apart your drivetrain there is a big difference between 170ft/lbs @ 68000 rpm and 289ft/lbs of torque @ 3500 rpm. If you do the math the evo at 5500rpm over 1 second puts around 1200 ft/lbs of instantaneous torque on the driveline assuming most of the energy is spent trying to turn the wheels.
Secondly the more horsepower you make the more picky your engine is going to be about those "small" issues like oil being low, running a bad tank of gas, or even revving it up to redline and dropping the clutch...
There is an ancient drag racing mantra that goes, "If your not breaking parts your not going fast enough" nuff said.
50k miles pently of spirited driving stock clutch and no problems... I'm not sure how some of your kids are destroying your engines but its sure entertaining at least to me. I do have a couple comments however...
First off if a motor makes no torque your not going to rip apart your drivetrain there is a big difference between 170ft/lbs @ 68000 rpm and 289ft/lbs of torque @ 3500 rpm. If you do the math the evo at 5500rpm over 1 second puts around 1200 ft/lbs of instantaneous torque on the driveline assuming most of the energy is spent trying to turn the wheels.
Secondly the more horsepower you make the more picky your engine is going to be about those "small" issues like oil being low, running a bad tank of gas, or even revving it up to redline and dropping the clutch...
There is an ancient drag racing mantra that goes, "If your not breaking parts your not going fast enough" nuff said.
First off if a motor makes no torque your not going to rip apart your drivetrain there is a big difference between 170ft/lbs @ 68000 rpm and 289ft/lbs of torque @ 3500 rpm. If you do the math the evo at 5500rpm over 1 second puts around 1200 ft/lbs of instantaneous torque on the driveline assuming most of the energy is spent trying to turn the wheels.
Secondly the more horsepower you make the more picky your engine is going to be about those "small" issues like oil being low, running a bad tank of gas, or even revving it up to redline and dropping the clutch...
There is an ancient drag racing mantra that goes, "If your not breaking parts your not going fast enough" nuff said.
Most in the forum agree that the Evo offers superior power to the S2k while giving up some reliablity. I myself speak from owning several sport compacts including the S2K.
They are different cars. I may actually pick up an S2K for daily driving purposes myself.
Regardless of x + y = z / x sq'd, what we are saying is the same. The S2K tends to be more forgiving then the Evo (or any other high powered turbo car for that matter).
Its amazing how one assumes "kids" are in the forum. Is the User age displayed anywhere? LMK...
The phrase kids is stemming from a point of responsibility when owning a powerful engine. In the cases I have read of the Evo's engines routinely braking it has nearly always been the users fault in some way or another.
Now.. that said this would not imply the sudden chaotic death of some engines by the more responsible owners just so you know...
If you use good oil (amsoil) and proper filters (oem mitsu, maybe mobile1) those add up quickly. (3k for agressive driving, 5k for light duty, $70 with those products)
Trans, transfer case, rear diff oil $300 to change at 30k miles (15k hard cycle) if using non-mitsu fluids/techs.
If you are trying to stay on the stock A046 Advans they will start in the snow but you have no control or ability to stop. Don't drive on them in the snow unless you are looking for an accident. They are definitley summer only and only last 10-15k Miles. $250 a tire if you want to stay on them, but if you aren't a track monkey there are plenty of tires that will be just about as good but not as expenisve (or short lived).
Its expensive to maintain relative to most dummy-slow cars, but its not *THAT* expensive if you treat it right
. People burning out their clutches in less than 30k miles are either tracking every weekend with alot of passes or doing something VERY wrong.
Trans, transfer case, rear diff oil $300 to change at 30k miles (15k hard cycle) if using non-mitsu fluids/techs.
If you are trying to stay on the stock A046 Advans they will start in the snow but you have no control or ability to stop. Don't drive on them in the snow unless you are looking for an accident. They are definitley summer only and only last 10-15k Miles. $250 a tire if you want to stay on them, but if you aren't a track monkey there are plenty of tires that will be just about as good but not as expenisve (or short lived).
Its expensive to maintain relative to most dummy-slow cars, but its not *THAT* expensive if you treat it right
. People burning out their clutches in less than 30k miles are either tracking every weekend with alot of passes or doing something VERY wrong.It is a figure of speech.
The phrase kids is stemming from a point of responsibility when owning a powerful engine. In the cases I have read of the Evo's engines routinely braking it has nearly always been the users fault in some way or another.
Now.. that said this would not imply the sudden chaotic death of some engines by the more responsible owners just so you know...
The phrase kids is stemming from a point of responsibility when owning a powerful engine. In the cases I have read of the Evo's engines routinely braking it has nearly always been the users fault in some way or another.
Now.. that said this would not imply the sudden chaotic death of some engines by the more responsible owners just so you know...
I just get kinda sensative about my motors I really wish I could get a concrete answer on what causes Rod Knock. No one seems to be able to provide an answer to this unfortunately... Only thing I can think of is Oil (but I was more than on top of it) or over revving...
Another note - I Never had a stock clutch issue. I changed it to be safe at about 45k miles when i went 2.3 (ran it for 20k miles with a 35r). Also, my stock Tranny lasted 81k miles until it went. Not bad IMO...