hey i have an 03 evo8 w/ 43k miles on it... i have this issue where when i go to a red light and put the car in neutral the rpms either drop down to < 500 then shoot back up or the car stalls out completely.... even when im rolling down the road and going from gear to gear, if it stays in neutral too long the car will stall... i have no idea wtf is wrong with it... the motor has a clicking noise not too sure wut it is thought possibly a valve tap but hey im no mechanic lol... also sounds like i need a new belt i hear some kind of squealing noise... the only other thing i thought could be the problem was maybe the BOV needed to be played with or since i was going to install a meth kit i had the nozzle drilled into the Upper IC but i have it capped off... possibly losing air? not sure like i said i only drive the car not fix it... anybody have any suggestions? ill list my mods done hope someone can help me!!!

03' white evolution 8 (43k miles)
K&N typhoon intake
Greddy BOV (recir)
TurboXS FMIC
Forge MBC @ 23psi
ACT stage III clutch
ACT Lightweight Flywheel
Tuned by Sean Ivey @ IveyTune

 

Check for a vacuum leak.

Though after reading your mod list that intake is dreadful...

 

Who or where did you buy the car from?
Did it have more mods on it before you bought it? If so then you could be running a tune for other mods which will mess with the idle.
Check for a vacuum leak and also dont put that meth kit in until the car is running right.

Ditch the intake its a piece of crap

 

get rid of that intake immediately!

 

i am the 2nd owner of the car and the car did have and XEDE kit on it... i took that out and got a flash done by sean ivey... i also get REALLY BAD flutter from my BOV? is that normal?

 

which intake would be best? i was thinking TurboXS or HKS?

 

Buschur intake is really good.

Also, the Greddy type S likes to flutter at partial throttle. You might have to adjust the nut on the top also.

 

nothing wrong with having a cone intake.......but you gotta get it tuned at least bro......also yes check for vacuum lines. there is one near your fuel rail and check the BOV like you said.

GET RID OF THE TYPHOON INTAKE......just get yourself a good cone filter kit. name brand really doesent matter, just make sure you got a good filter.

 

I think it is tuned^

 

I had this same problem and unfortunately b/c i did so many things, i don't know what fixed it... but I had this problem on my stock setup with minor mods like urself. I bolted on a 30r kit, new bov, new boost controller, and since i took everything off and on, it could have been a vacuum leak... it was falling on its face with the old clutch occasionally (almost seemed weather related), but when i had it retuned it didn't seem to be a problem, even before I replaced the clutch. so my suggestion is to THOUROUGHLY check all vacuum lines and your Greddy BOV (i had a greddy too but the diaphram inside was shot, possibly leaking) and if all looks good, check your idle air control and/or have a tuner try to raise the idle through ur ecu. I run AEM, with HKS BOV (the new one) and the car runs perfect, except for cold startup - it falls on its face still if its not fully warmed up. Also, someone correct me if i'm wrong, but I think you can check for a vacuum leak by opening a small propane tank whlile the car is on and (obviously with no flame) just put in near some areas that u want to test for a leak and you will see the air leaking. Again, correct me if im wrong.

 

p.s. - i have a k&n filter... my HKS suction intake got ruined cuz i think when I washed it , i didn't let it dry too good, and when i put it back on, my car sucked through it so hard that half of the filter part folded into itself, so i was sucking raw air... bad... lol so the K&N is working out ok

 

i feel like it is weather related since i got it tuned back in august... it was tuned right after i installed the ACT clutch/flywheel... where do i check for vacuum leaks?

 

see post above...by your fuel rail. and like he said check your bov. also check by your t coupling for your mbc could be leaking there too. just my .2

 

check all the lines

 

It's not really line related, I can almost guarantee you that. I have an Injen intake with the licp/uicp and a Turbo XS Type-H34 recirc valve, and mine did the same thing for the longest time. Basically the spring pressure is too high in the valve, and that in turns cause the flutter and compressor surge noises you're hearing. Once I lowered the spring pressure on my valve it didn't want to stall as bad as previously and the flutter went away completely. After playing with my timing and afr's a hair I was able to smooth most of it out.