At what HP level does the EVO become finicky?
At what HP level does the EVO become finicky?
I was wondering at what HP level does the EVO stop running like a factory car and start adhering to the stereotypes of a modified car when reliability and component strength start slipping and things tend to get a bit deeper than basic maintenance and what modifications can keep this neutralize?
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This is such an open-ended question.
It will all depend on your tuning goals. You can tune a car for absolutely safe performance with appropriate power gains, and still have to worry about your drivetrain handling the added hp and tq. OR, you can tune for maximum power, and worry about every component of your build that's not forged (or built by Shep). The real question for every owner is at what point will you lose that peace of mind that you had in the stocker? For some, they never had any peace of mind, and for others, they believe the Evo to be invincible at any mod level. It's simply up to the individual.
Beyond that, any part you bolt on to your car that requires special treatment meets the parameters of your initial question. That's your answer.
It will all depend on your tuning goals. You can tune a car for absolutely safe performance with appropriate power gains, and still have to worry about your drivetrain handling the added hp and tq. OR, you can tune for maximum power, and worry about every component of your build that's not forged (or built by Shep). The real question for every owner is at what point will you lose that peace of mind that you had in the stocker? For some, they never had any peace of mind, and for others, they believe the Evo to be invincible at any mod level. It's simply up to the individual.
Beyond that, any part you bolt on to your car that requires special treatment meets the parameters of your initial question. That's your answer.
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I am mainly speaking of the HP level without having to worry about drivetrain components, detonation from not enough fuel, an aftermarket clutch that ISN'T the $1,400 Exedy twin disc etc. The most bang for the least worry of everything.
This is such an open-ended question.
It will all depend on your tuning goals. You can tune a car for absolutely safe performance with appropriate power gains, and still have to worry about your drivetrain handling the added hp and tq. OR, you can tune for maximum power, and worry about every component of your build that's not forged (or built by Shep). The real question for every owner is at what point will you lose that peace of mind that you had in the stocker? For some, they never had any peace of mind, and for others, they believe the Evo to be invincible at any mod level. It's simply up to the individual.
Beyond that, any part you bolt on to your car that requires special treatment meets the parameters of your initial question. That's your answer.
It will all depend on your tuning goals. You can tune a car for absolutely safe performance with appropriate power gains, and still have to worry about your drivetrain handling the added hp and tq. OR, you can tune for maximum power, and worry about every component of your build that's not forged (or built by Shep). The real question for every owner is at what point will you lose that peace of mind that you had in the stocker? For some, they never had any peace of mind, and for others, they believe the Evo to be invincible at any mod level. It's simply up to the individual.
Beyond that, any part you bolt on to your car that requires special treatment meets the parameters of your initial question. That's your answer.
I always say 350-400 whp is the vest of both worlds. It is mostly safe and you can get there with no meth injection or NOS, just bolt ons, cams, you know.
It is crazy fun and faster than most other cars on the road and you probably won't break anything.
After that whp you start to need datalogging and more gauges and stuff breaks.
Just my 2 cents
It is crazy fun and faster than most other cars on the road and you probably won't break anything.
After that whp you start to need datalogging and more gauges and stuff breaks.
Just my 2 cents
You can trash the car completely on stock power levels. Take that into consideration and be prepared to pay to play. When you modify one thing it directly or indirectly affects other components on the vehicle.
once the car runs 12.0 (or 350whp) i think u reach the limits of drivability in comparison to stock. i would say u don't need a $1500 clutch at that level, but u would need at least a $1000 clutch. the exedy does feel really good to the push even tho its $1500 give or take a few hundred. you can build a 400whp car that is tame like stock until u hammer it but itll cost a lil extra.
just don't mod like the Honda kids do by having 500whp & STOCK brakes...
just don't mod like the Honda kids do by having 500whp & STOCK brakes...
once the car runs 12.0 (or 350whp) i think u reach the limits of drivability in comparison to stock. i would say u don't need a $1500 clutch at that level, but u would need at least a $1000 clutch. the exedy does feel really good to the push even tho its $1500 give or take a few hundred. you can build a 400whp car that is tame like stock until u hammer it but itll cost a lil extra.
just don't mod like the Honda kids do by having 500whp & STOCK brakes...
just don't mod like the Honda kids do by having 500whp & STOCK brakes...






